Unusual Destinations Blog

The only things Madagascar and South Africa have in common are sirens and whale song. Except, on the Red Island these sounds hail from the treetops. And that’s just the beginning of the bizarre and quirky wildlife that lives on the island. Of the over 200 000 living things there, virtually all do not occur anywhere else on earth. And new species are still being discovered all the time.

Singing Indris

Madagascar Wildlife: Indri Lemur

I awoke dazed and confused. The shrill sound of sirens mixed with lilting whale song bounced across the forest canopy. What could possibly be going on? A wildlife emergency? The locals were tickled at my surprise. “It’s just indris calling to their mates and marking their territories at the start of the new day,” they laughed.

Later on I tramped the well worn paths of Perinet’s (Andasibe) montane forest in search of these unusual creatures – biggest of Madagascar’s lemurs. I found giant black and white teddy bears, sitting high in the treetops. They gazed down at me quizzically, and every so often rounded their mouths and played their siren songs. Somehow the sound just didn’t match the animal that looks like a cross between a panda bear and a large monkey. I sat listening for hours and recorded their calls, so friends at home could also be amazed.

I took photos of harmless, but huge, boa constrictors and bright red tree frogs for the same reason. And a Parsons chameleon tipping the scales at 2kg, which is a whole lot of chameleon. I’m sure I walked past dozens of leaf tailed geckos, because their camouflage is identical to tree bark – you simply can’t see them unless they blink.

But even if I missed a lot, there’s plenty to see in this park, not even mentioning the unusual birds – some in iridescent attire. Plus wild roses and trumpet lilies that grow along the waterways.

Dancing Sifakas

Further south in Berenty, the landscape looks like a science fiction movie set. The spiny forest is a mass of tall thorny cacti that look like waving cat’s tails. An array of lemurs live in the forest and have especially soft feet so the thorns can penetrate their soles without hurting too much. It makes perfect sense if you have to live in a thorn thicket.

Madagascar Wildlife: Berenty Sifika

But a completely unexpected and surreal sight greeted me early one morning. Still bleary eyed, I was convinced I was having Madagascan dreams. The creamy coloured sifakas were dancing a lemur tango. Really. If the trees are too far apart for sifakas to jump from one to another, they hit the ground and dance to get there. Their special feet are for grasping branches so they can’t walk. They have to dance, sideways, before leaping into the next tree.

The mobs of ringtailed lemurs that live there swagger along like outback cowboys, and to them dancing sifakas are everyday. But I’d never seen anything quite like it. I was captivated. Gobsmacked. And amused. For me it was the most quirky wildlife experience ever.

Chameleons giant and dwarf

Well, Madagascar has way more different species of chameleon than the rest of the world put together. And none of them are ordinary. Some are enormous – the size of a Jack Russell – and others are just as big as a finger joint. I held a Parson’s chameleon that filled my arms, and his tail hung down my leg. Some take camouflage to the extreme and resemble rusty armour plating, others impersonate rainbows. The variety is astounding.

To see a whole lot of different chameleons all together I went to Mandraka sanctuary, en route to Perinet. I held big and small, fed them flies and looked into their eyes. It was a truly moving experience, and I felt like I was touching antiquity. Chameleons, I think, know more than we believe.

Rainbow Bugs and Beetles

Madagascar's Wildlife: Giraffe beetle

If you think of a colour combination, there’s a bug or beetle to match it. And you won’t even have to look very far. For me, giraffe beetles took the prize. Red bodied average size beetles, they have a black crane like neck that makes them appear contrived – and not from this planet.

But there are hundreds, thousands, maybe more, that will have entomologists agog. Around every corner I was wide eyed at what I saw. And even if you don’t like wildlife much, Madagascar will change your mind. Stick insects, twig snakes, polka dot worms, giant moths and insect-eating plants. I was more than captivated. I was entranced by the weird and whimsical creatures that live there. It is a world apart. An island alone in the stream.

Aerial picture Baixo do Pinda

Nuarro is a unique “beach & bush” lodge situated on the beautiful Baixo do Pinda Peninsula in Northern Mozambique. The lodge is situated on a  tropical private beach and is surrounded by unspoiled bush with unique biodiversity. Discover hidden coves on the coastline or encounter enchanting traditions, history & culture – the perfect ingredients for an authentic holiday experience!

Based on a strong concept of ethical and fair trade tourism, Nuarro is a pilot project founded, managed and built by its owners with true passion for the local environment.  Built with local materials, by local people, it incorporates genuine ecological awareness and social responsibilities. Some of Nuarro’s pilot initiatives include:

• Co-ownership of land with the local community
• Unique memorandum of understanding with the community for common benefit
• Safe, potable fresh water supply
• Agricultural, horticultural and small holding projects
• Land and Marine Conservation and introduction of sustainable fishing practices
• Multifunctional Community centre with education, health clinic, hygiene and sanitation programs
• Micro finance to small enterprises with support of local and international NGO´s

Mozambique Nampula Province NUARRO Lodge

Main attractions

Private, sheltered with many places to relax. Facing north, Nuarro stands alongside sand dunes, surrounded by indigenous bush and dotted by secluded beaches. The concession of 800ha has 3 kilometers of seafront.  Each chalet has magnificent sea views and unquestionable privacy with its own access to the main beach and a private sundeck.

World class shore diving

Diving is the passion of the owners/managers of Nuarro who are all PADI Instructors/Dive masters with a combined 30 years of experience in teaching recreational diving. The local bay’s combination of dramatic continental-shelf topography, excellent water visibility, coral & fish diversity as well as easy reef access allows for world class on- and offshore diving suitable for all ranges of experience.  The closeness of the continental shelf invites easy shore dives to the five pinnacles separated by white sand-falls and populated by abundant fish life and coral diversity. Along the shore more advanced divers can enjoy the “Baixo do Pinda Walls”, with drift, wreck and multilevel dives. Everywhere is a perfect opportunity for underwater photography. Many dive sites are still to be discovered!

Mozambique Nampula Province NUARRO Lodge

Whale watching in season from the chalet

With such dramatic drop offs only 200 meters from the beach, the Humpback Whales come very close into the bay with their young. They learn communication skills which include delightful breaching performances! The whales cruise the bay during the day and produce a very special sound at night. They can be spotted from the comfort of the sumptuous king-size beds.
For closer encounters, Nanatha Island Rock (a small coral island off the coast) is a strategic view point or special dhow sailing trips into the bay allow for more exciting “eye to eye” contact.

The Lodge

Nuarro comprises 12 luxury beachfront chalets (of which 10 have a family option with an upstairs area for twin beds), panoramic restaurant with cocktail bar, centralized activity centre with beach bar and reception area. All buildings are situated over the dunes, overlooking the enchanting Memba Bay.

The buildings were designed by a French architect to allow the sea breeze to pass through, thus providing great indoor climate conditions all year round. The lodge occupies an area close to 10ha with access to the main beach which is 2.5km in length plus many hidden places to relax the day away. Guests facilities include a cozy library, TV, DVD room and internet access.

The Chalets

The chalets are very spacious (120m² under roof) with a large verandah, hammocks and sun loungers. They are strategically placed along the dunes and amongst thick vegetation for privacy and minimum environmental impact. Each is decorated with individual touches depending on surroundings, beach entrance, front and back views. Interior features include extra long king size beds placed on an elevated floor (twins available) with quality linen, lounge area and a cozy bathroom; inside and outside showers, wardrobes, large mosquito nets. All furniture and crafts are locally made.

The Dive Centre

The activity centre has a fully equipped Dive Centre with its own reception and lounge, a separate classroom for teaching and education, a dressing area with closets and shower facilities. Nuarro offers rental of diving gear and dive tanks, all PADI dive courses and most PADI specialties. Fully kitted dive boats (tailor built dhows) with radio, GPS and emergency kits. Experienced dive instructors are available at all times to accommodate all levels of training and dive groups.

Mozambique Nampula Province NUARRO Lodge

Marine activities

The sheltered Memba bay allows for marine activities throughout the year, with the comfort of direct access to the open sea. The marine activity centre will offer an extensive array of activities including:

• Snorkeling from shore, from the sundeck platform or by boat to explore exquisite coral gardens within Memba bay or on the turquoise Baixo do Pinda area.
• Kayak trips to explore the mangroves and secluded bays along the shore, with a choice of deserted beaches for a stopover.
• Fly and bottom fishing inside the local bay and on Baixo do Pinda for the big ones like yellow fin tuna and king fish. Catch and release!
• Whale watching from shore and boat in the whale watch season from June until November.
• Dhow sailing cruises (traditional wooden boats) to deserted beaches for an exclusive (honeymoon) picnic and sundowner cruises with cold drinks and snacks.
• Sea kayaking along the shore and into the mangroves for an adventurous experience.

Mozambique Nampula Province NUARRO Lodge

Land activities

Nuarro has a strategic location, close to Nacala, Nampula and Pemba allowing for a great variety of activities, including:

• Day trip to Ilha de Moçambique, a World Heritage Site. Leave early in the morning for a two hour drive (one way), part on dirt and part on tar roads, through authentic villages. Ilha’s architecture has a mixture of Arabic, Swahili, Portuguese and Dutch influences. The Fort of “São Sebastião”, currently under renovation is a jewel not to be missed. Have lunch and be back at Nuarro before dark.
• Adventure day trips of two and half hour’s drive (one way) on dirt roads through real Mozambican landscape to the Lurio Water Falls in the northern end of the Memba district. Encounter wild life and enjoy a picnic on the banks of the river (only available outside the rainy season, from April until November).
• Eco trails and bike tours are specially laid out within Nuarro’s conservation area, with optional guided bush-trails through mangroves and salt flats.
• Early morning walks with a view of Memba bay and the relaxing sounds of the bird and wildlife.
• Bird watching throughout the conservation area, into the bush and along the shore. The different species spotted may be added to our catalogue to feature on Nuarro’s website.
• Authentic cultural village visit and interactions with the Macua people – The local community of Nanatha allows for a choice of informal or guided visits to the community and to the multifunctional community centre for hands-on interaction, purchase of arts & crafts to support sustainable tourism, or to join in a game of soccer with the local team.

Rates at Nuarro include

All meals, teas, coffees and snacks.

• A bottle of wine in the room (on arrival).
• ½ hour back and neck massage.
• A ‘bush’ bath on the veranda (on request).
• Dhow cruises and kayaking.
• Eco trails and bike rides.
• EVAC medical insurance.
• Donations per bed/night (US$ 5) and paid activities (US$ 2) to ANAN.

Rates exclude

Motorised activities, fishing, scuba diving and motorised day trips (see activity list for prices).

Transfers

There are several ways to get to Nuarro. Fly to Nampula with LAM (Air Mozambique) where you will be collected by the Nuarro team. You have the choice of driving from Nampula to Nuarro by private car (3-4 hours on a good road) or fly by charter plane which will take about 45 minutes.

If you fly to Pemba with LAM or Airlink the road transfer is longer (5-6 hours) and the charter flight will take 55 minutes.

Charter flights are operated by CFA and  MAF, both operating Cessna 4,6 or 10 seats. Please note that 15:30 is the latest departure time for charter flights.

Please note

20% non-refundable deposit secures a booking. Full payment due strictly 45 days prior to arrival.
Strict cancellation policy: 2 weeks notice 100%, 4 weeks notice 50%, 6 weeks notice 30%, more than 8 weeks 20% deposit.
Baggage allowance is 15kg for private charters from Pemba or Nampula.
Children under 10 years are only accepted on special request.

Specials

Free night special: valid 1 Sep – 16 Dec 2009 & 10 Jan – 1 Oct 2010
Pay for 3 nights and stay for 4.

Amazing Dive package offer: valid 1 Sep – 16 Dec 2009 & 10 Jan – 1 Oct 2010

• Special rates apply
• Stay for a minimum of 6 nights at Nuarro with the following dives included:
• 3 double boat dives
• 1 night dive
• UNLIMITED shore dives

Honeymoon special: valid 1 Sep – 16 Dec 2009 & 10 Jan – 1 Oct 2010

Discount of 50% on the accommodation for the bride. Minimum stay is 7 nights.
Various honeymoon treats for honeymooners