First impressions
Lalibela is one of those magical, musical words – like Timbuktu and Casablanca. For me, being there was a little like an ‘out of earth’ experience. Your head tells you that you are in Africa, but your heart feels like it has landed on the moon. That’s not because of the way Lalibela looks, but because of how it feels – completely, utterly, other worldly.
Landing in Lalibela by plane is also a little reminiscent of arriving in the Himalayas or the Andes; it’s high altitude, mountainous, and the air is raspingly thin at over 2 600m. When I visited in May it was also dry and dusty, but in September green grass and spring flowers carpet the mountains and the area becomes a rolling garden.
Ethi culture
There is no earthy comparison for the people and culture of Ethiopia. I was warned that people may be unfriendly, even rude at times. But I found none of that. It’s just that the tall, lean, regal Ethiopians live to a different rhythm to the rest of the world, and sometimes may seem aloof – certainly not unfriendly.
Their calendar, clocks and alphabet also don’t resemble anything I’d ever seen before. Right now, in 2009, it’s only 2002 in Ethiopia, because they follow an ancient calendar of 12 months of 30 days, with one short 13th month when they don’t earn a salary or pay rent. Time can also be confusing, because the Ethiopian clock is based on 12 hours not 24, and starts at six o’clock. So 7 o’clock western time is one o’clock Ethiopian time, but to my relief the airline adheres to world time.
There are also over 70 languages spoken across the country, but the official one is Amharic – and it is magical. The alphabet resembles dancing figures with no similarity to any other world alphabet. For me, in every possible way, Ethiopia is its own world.
Main attractions
I was completely surprised by the enormous diversity in Ethiopia – from seeing rare Ethiopian wolves on the high altitude Sanetti plateau, just south of Addis Ababa, to sailing in a papyrus boat to remote island monastries on turquoise Lake Tana – also the source of the Blue Nile. Then there are the majestic Blue Nile falls, the rugged Simien mountains in the north, the evocative castles of Gondar – Ethiopia’s Camelot – and bizarre stella fields in Axum, where the Queen of Sheba also lived.
But to me, Lalibela is the heart of Ethiopia, for its ancient ways and fantastical rock hewn churches. There are literally a few dozen of these, all are either subterranean or built into high cliff faces. Some of the mountain churches outside the town are only accessible by ropes and rope ladders, which was a little too much like hard work for me. But the dozen or so subterranean churches in Lalibela town are accessible to everyone who is mobile and doesn’t mind climbing stairs.
The roofs of these churches are all at ground level, and you walk down worn rock stairs to reach the front entrance – and I was personally welcomed in each church by the resident priest. Amazingly all the churches are hand carved from a massive single block of rock, and most are multi storey. It’s breathtaking and I couldn’t believe that human hands could be so artistic and work so meticulously.
Inside, the churches are cool and dimly lit with beeswax candles and the floors are layered with worn carpets. I was fascinated that each church has its own colourful religious book and unique cross, and throughout Ethiopia there are a few hundred different crosses to see. All are based on three core designs, one each from the historic cities of Gondar, Axum and, of course, Lalibela. The intricacy of design in the churches, crosses and elaborate clothing of the priests left me in awe of this truly ancient culture.
Where to stay
In Lalibela – as in the other historic cities of Axum and Gondar – there is basic, clean accommodation available. It’s mostly also comfortable, though mattresses may be a little worn and there may not be running water 24/7. I found it charming and at times quirky, and the friendliness of staff makes up for anything amiss.
Dining out
Injira is Ethiopia’s traditional dish, and you need an open mind and palate to enjoy it. It’s a large, grey fluffy pancake that resembles a face cloth in texture, and piled on it are little heaps of vegetables, sometimes slivers of meat, but always very hot sauces. I believe you have to taste the cuisine of the country you visit for the full experience of its culture. But I still don’t rate Ethiopian cuisine as my all-time favourite. Luckily, plenty of simply prepared western style food is also available, though Ethiopians like to deep fry most things – even fruit. Pasta and good coffee is also everywhere, courtesy of the Italian influence on the country.
In a nutshell
This is one place that you will never forget. It’s truly unlike anywhere else in Africa or on the planet. People range from reserved to very friendly and experiences everywhere are completely unique. I love old Africa and ancient traditions, unusual wildlife and birds, dramatic landscapes and rugged places – and Ethiopia has all of these and more. Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I believe the whole of Ethiopia should be, because it belongs to a time so ancient you have to see it to believe it.
Personal highlight
Seeing the solid gold cross of Lalibela that only comes out once a week to bless pilgrims. It’s heavy and well worn and a true national treasure. And sitting quietly in the cool, dank churches, where locals visit throughout the day to pray and be still – that was completely unforgettable.
Ethiopia Travel Packages
Historical Tour and Bale National Park – 14 nights
This is a great itinerary offering visitors the opportunity to discover Ethiopia. You will be starting off with the enchanting Historical Route, rich in cultural heritage, followed by the spectacular Bale National Park.
Historical Tour – 9 nights
This is the most popular circuit for those visiting Ethiopia – the ‘Cradle of Mankind’. See a range of fabulous constructions, such as the enchanting castles in Gondar; the imposing obelisks at Axum…
Ethiopia the best: North, East & South – 16 nights
An adventurous itinerary offering a full spectrum of what Ethiopia has to offer. This itinerary encompasses the historical route in the North, Harar in the East and the cultural South.
After 25min we started our descent to land on Medjumbe – A private island in the middle of the ocean. All you see from the air is the pristine white of the sand and their famous lighthouse peeping out from the trees & bush. We transferred to the lodge, 3min away by “golf cart” & were warmly greeted by the staff and the GM, Jani Claassen with delicious cocktails. He immediately advised us to adjust our watches to Medjumbe time – 1 hour forward! We were shown our private beach chalets & advised to meet in the bar for pre-dinner drinks & snacks at 6pm. The 13 beautifully decorated chalets each have their own plunge pool on their verandahs together with table & chairs as well as a hammock.
The following morning I was up early & very surprised to see how far out the tide goes. I would suggest swimming along the main beach, as this part doesn’t have any rocks & coral for you to stub or cut your feet on if you don’t have booties to protect them. I walked out for miles to the sand spit – which is covered at high tide – and wallowed in the warm water until I had worked up an appetite & took a brisk walk back to meet the group. Due to the accessibility of foodstuffs, the resident Chef makes everything from scratch and that includes the most divine croissants & pastries! Breakfast is buffet style & hot food to order with your waiter. 
For the last 500 years the island was a trading post and the history, slave trading, culture & ruins dates back to the early 1500’s. It’s very interesting walking around the old fort & watching the Silversmiths make their intricate, lacy silver jewellery. We did a sight inspection of Ibo Island Lodge. Three original historic buildings have been renovated to accommodate 14 ensuite rooms. They are large & lofty, elegant & simple & have been furnished by some original pieces. The original walls, some 1 metre thick still stand in the original house. The have an awesome roof terrace where they serve their dinners using freshly grown vegetables & herbs from their garden. I personally wouldn’t stay here, but would prefer to do a day tour across from Matemo but for clients wanting to “live” the ancient culture & experience this first hand, then it’s a must !
After our 2 nights of gracious hospitality we flew to our last port of call Pemba Beach Hotel & Spa, a mere 30minutes by light aircraft. This is a large hotel with 101 rooms & very obvious East African & Arabic influences in its style & architecture. The Assistant GM, Mossaine has been employed by the hotel since the start, first as front office and now as top management. What a fabulous, on the ball, humourous gentleman. He certainly knows his hotel & staff and runs it like a well oiled ship! He personally took us for a sight inspection & showed us all the room types from the standard deluxe rooms, classic rooms, suites, presidential suite to the 8 x self catering villas. A great option for a long stay guest as it is fully equipped with washing machine, dryer, fridge, stove as well as 2 rooms upstairs & 2 bathrooms, lounge & dining room. This hotel is very corporate & can accommodate groups & conferencing for up to 200 delegates. They have a gym with hi-tec equipment as well as a tennis court and a magnificent sanctuary spa spread over 500sq m where you can indulge in some tranquility and let one of the therapists pamper your needs with an array of treatments. Pemba Beach Hotel has 2 restuarants. The one which offers fine dining and Clube Naval, lighter more local options, with a vibey bar which is frequented by the locals & pilots ! We were taken on a city tour by Rui, a South African of Portugese descent who has been at the hotel for 6mnths and loving it. It was amazing to see the old buildings, the markets and the local friendly folk, smiling & waving to us as we passed or stopped for photographs. Rui took us straight to the airport for our flight SA8205 for 12.45pm departure. Security checked all our bags before checking in and again we paid a USD3/R20 departure tax.