Unusual Destinations Blog

In a similar vein to Mexico’s Festival of the Dead, the bone turning ceremonies in Madagascar honour the ancestors in a celebration where laughing and weeping are both perfectly normal.

Madagascar: bone turning ceremony

Just south of the capital is the colourful little town of Antsirabe, where the ruling Merina tribe also live. Patric Niaina owns an intricately painted rickshaw there, and ferries locals around in his hand-drawn taxi. But, today he’s taken the day off work and donned his smartest outfit for a trip into the hills just outside of town. It’s a big day for him. His family is holding an auspicious bone-turning ceremony to honour their ancestors, and Patric is not missing it for anything.

With Patric navigating, we wind along well worn sand roads, through the mountains but see absolutely no sign of a ceremony. Then as we round a corner, there is a heaving gathering of people on the hillside. The national flag is being held high and people are milling around energetically. “That’s the famadihana,” says Patric, “it has already started.”

It’s a hot, dusty afternoon, and we arrive to a cacophony of music, singing and raucous revelry. Rice and rum are everywhere, being served from little stalls under rainbow umbrellas. We are quickly enfolded in dust and fresh rum fumes, and are definitely the only sober guests there. But, in a bid to change that, we are quickly handed a bottle of rum for an obligatory swig. It tastes like swallowing razor blades, but this is the traditional brew of Madagascar, and there is no way around it today.

Madagascar: bone turning ritual

The tomb has already been opened and the crowd mills around the entrance, some weeping, others laughing, some seemingly indifferent to the magnitude of the occasion. A family will save for five to 10 years to be able to afford such a ceremony, because it entails mountains of rice and plenty of rum, as well as new shrouds, gifts and the prized zebu cattle that are slaughtered as part of the ritual.

First one skeletal mummy is carried out of the tomb, rolled in a hand-woven grass mat and held high above the surrounding crowd. Then another and another emerges, until five family members are lying side by side on the grass – their heads facing east. Some of the living family draw near to tell the latest news and happenings in the village, others ask for advice, and still others stand in silence and simply watch the proceedings.

Not wanting to impose, we keep moving back in the crowd, but are constantly yanked forwards to be a part of the ceremony and to see exactly what is going on. It’s difficult to hear what is being said, amidst all the singing and chanting, laughing and crying – and liberal swigging of rum from bottles being passed through the crowd. But we respectfully oblige and stand with the family.

Then the mats are gently unrolled by chosen family members, and each mummy is wrapped in a new white shroud to cover the old one. All the time, the family continues talking to their dead ancestors as if they were perfectly alive and part of the party. It is an almost surreal experience for western eyes, but one we will never forget. The Malagasy reverence and respect for their ancestors is deep and real.

Madagascar: wrapping mummies

Patric stands with us, rum in hand and watches as intently as we do. “This is a big day for the family,” he says sipping his neat rum, “and it is very special that you are here. It is a blessing and good luck for us.” Then, an elder places a small gift on the chest of each mummy and inscribes their name on the shroud – in felt tip marker pen. A new straw hat and a photograph of each ancestor are also placed on their chests. In between proceedings, a childless woman tears a tiny piece of shroud to place under her pillow in the hope of bearing children, and another lovingly strokes the skeletal remains of her grandmother.

Then after more rum, and with plenty of dancing and singing, the crowd gives the ancestors a jovial send off – back into the cool tomb. It will be a good few years before the family will host another bone turning ceremony, but they start saving for it immediately.

While the Merina and Betsileo tribes are the only ones to practice bone-turning ceremonies in Madagascar, each of the 18 tribes on the island have rituals to honour the dead. Because, for the Malagasy, death is the most important part of life and the dead have far more power than the living.

With the mummies all safely back in the family tomb, celebrations start winding down. It’s been three days of full throttle revelry for the crowd, and they are growing weary. Rum fumes still permeate the air, as the last guests settle down to enjoy bowls of rice. Patric has settled in with his family and we afford him privacy and head back to Antsirabe. But first, we respectfully thank him for allowing us to attend this personal ritual, and hand him a bottle of rum as a traditional gift. “Thank you,” he says, “the honour was all mine.” And with a rum-soaked smile, he screws off the cap and takes a long swig.

If you’re a wildlife enthusiast and have a ‘bucket list’ of things to see and do before you die, Africa has plenty to offer. In no particular order, here are five wildlife highlights that just have to be seen to be believed.

Dancing Sifakas – Berenty, Madagascar

Madagascar: Dancing Verreaux

Seeing these quirky creatures dance between the trees will give you a full belly laugh, or possibly stun you into bemused silence. Sifakas dancing are truly the most bizarre site I have ever seen; just thinking of it makes me laugh.

Because sifakas’ feet are designed for grasping trees, they can’t walk on flat ground. But sometimes the trees they feed in are too far apart for them to jump, which is their usual practice – so they have to dance across the flat ground between them. It’s a kind of sifaka tango.

These Verreaux’s Sifakas have velvety cream coats and jet black faces with a permanently bemused look on them. Their beady brown eyes always look startled and alert, so just looking at their quizzical faces raises a laugh. Then when they side step, pirouette and continue on their dance, well, it’s just side splitting. They spend as little time as possible on the ground, so the dance is fast, followed by a quick jump onto a tree branch where they carry on feeding – as if nothing ever happened.

Berenty in the south of Madagascar is the easiest place to see the dance. Of course they don’t dance on cue, so you may need to be patient and wait a while. But it will be absolutely worth it.

The Annual Wildebeest Migration – Serengeti, Tanzania

Tanzania: Serengeti Migration

The photographs can never tell the story, and while film footage gives a better idea of the scale of the migration, there are not really words to explain being surrounded by millions of moaning wildebeest mingling with zebra.

It’s like looking at an ant colony on a macro scale. As far as you can see, horizon to horizon, there is nothing but wildebeest. They stand around grunting for hours on end, chase each other playfully and generally are just being wildebeest. Then, when the chief zebra advises the head wildebeest it’s time to move, they all start trotting – pied piper style.

I was in a Land Rover in the middle of the herd, and the sound of a few million hooves on sand is like deafening thunder rolling past. The entire herd seems to think with a single mind, called by the literal green grass on the other side of the Mara River in Kenya.

They run and rest all the way from Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing first the Grumeti then the Mara rivers. They leap in faith into the rivers, and by the end of the migration all the crocodiles have full bellies. Some of these crocodiles only eat once a year during the migration, yet they are still the biggest Nile crocodiles in all of Africa.

For me, the migration was overwhelming, breathtaking and a clear demonstration of the triumph of animal instinct and natural selection. During June and July every year, the wildebeest start heading north to Kenya, though the exact dates of departure depend entirely on the chief wildebeest and his zebra advisor.

Endangered Mountain Gorillas – Rwanda

Rwanda: Endangered Mountain Gorilla

Staring into the chocolate brown eyes of a mountain gorilla is like looking into your own soul. There’s a mutual recognition that we are close cousins indeed, maybe too close since mountain gorillas easily contract human diseases. This is why nobody who is ill with a cold or any other condition may trek for gorillas, and why a healthy seven metre distance must be maintained at all times from the gorilla group. If the gorillas move closer, you move back. No food may be eaten while with the gorillas either.

There’s just an hour to spend with them, that’s what’s allowed, but it is an intense hour. I found myself pondering the origin of our species and how all life is really interlinked. How we could be so similar yet so different, and how we presume humans are so superior. I felt I needed to apologise to the gorillas for human behaviour.

I saw the Sabinyo group, but there are a handful of groups habituated to humans. Then there are additional study groups that only researchers from the Karisoke Research Institute have access to. Still, every time a gorilla is born, it’s named and celebrated. And every time one is lost to the bush meat or exotic pet trade, there is despair because there are so few. Just about 250 remain on earth. And since mountain gorillas don’t survive in captivity, supporting their conservation by seeing them in the wild is their only real hope.

Africa’s only Wolf – Ethiopia

They’re elusive and beautiful and live in tiny pockets across Ethiopia, so seeing Africa’s only true wolf gliding across a mountain top is spectacular. Uniquely, Ethiopian wolves do not require an early morning wake-up call to see them. They only get going when the sun is up and the high altitude plateau they live on warms up a bit. As it gets warmer the giant mole rats come out, and so do the wolves – to catch one for breakfast.

Ethiopia: Ethiopian Wolf

In their habitat in the Bale Mountains National Park, the air is raspingly thin, so I was pleased that no physical effort was needed to see them. I drove up onto the 4 000m plateau in a Landcruiser, much like a game drive. After just a half hour of driving I spotted my first lone wolf, its burnt orange coat swiftly sailing across the scubby grey bushes. Then a pounce and he had his first mole rat, which he carried off to enjoy in peace.

It’s a 400km, full day, uber-bumpy drive to get from Addis Ababa to Goba near the base of the Sanetti Plateau, for a wolf visit the following morning. Then it’s a full day’s drive back again. But seeing these highly endangered creatures was well worth the effort. Just to see a wolf in Africa is a unique experience, and a slightly bizarre I thought.

Swimming with Dolphins – Zanzibar

Somehow swimming with dolphins perfectly complements the romance of Zanzibar. Swimming with sharks there just wouldn’t hold the same appeal.

Zanzibar: Kizimkazi dolphins swimming

I went out from Kizimkazi on the east coast, on a boat skippered by a Rastafarian. Boats are basic, possibly with a sunshade, but don’t expect cocktails or canapés on board. The skipper cruised around the dolphin territory until he spotted one, then I baled overboard with mask and snorkel issued, and swam. A helping hand will pull you back onto the boat again.

Of course, it’s entirely the choice of the dolphins if they want to hang around and play. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are just passing through. But I now know why dolphin therapy is successful and can even assist in curing illness. What tranquil, exquisite animals they are, with personalities of their own and a seemingly deep understanding of the human condition. Even if you just have two minutes in the water with them as they pass by, it’s an experience I will never forget.

First impressions

I had no idea what to expect in Rwanda, but a lush, peaceful, clean country filled with gentle, regal people was definitely not on my idea list at all. And that is exactly what I found. Now I know why Rwanda is called ‘Africa’s Switzerland’. Sure, it’s right on the equator and there are banana trees and terraces of vegetables, which are certainly not Swiss, but the landscape is magnificently beautiful and deep green. The little towns and villages are clean and well tended and the rural mud-brick homes even have handmade terracotta tiled roofs. Quite unexpectedly, the road network is excellent and tarred too. But the biggest surprise was the extensive cell phone coverage throughout the country. Rwanda is one pleasant surprise after another, all in the tiniest, most misunderstood country in Africa.

Rwandan culture

Everyone who has a television knows that Rwanda’s two main tribes are the Tutsi and the Hutus. They fought each other to the death nearly two decades ago, with the Tutsi suffering most, but I was again surprised and quite overwhelmed how they now live together harmoniously and deeply respect each others cultures. Most of the rural folk are Hutus and the tall, elegant, refined Tutsis live mostly in towns and villages. But everywhere I went I saw clearly that today there are only Rwandans, tribes are not distinguished and any prejudices are abhorred. Kinyarwanda and French are spoken throughout, along with English and Swahili.

Market girl

Main attractions

Of course the highly endangered mountain gorillas are the best known drawcard to Rwanda, and trekking in the soaring Virunga mountains to see them is a life changing experience. While with the gorillas, I kept wondering who was watching who, since gorillas share 97% of our DNA. They could very well be ‘human viewing’ and be tickled at the lengths humans go to, to see them munching wild celery and romping on the mountain side.

Seeing the Karisoke Research Institute set up by Dian Fossey is also a must do. If you have seen Gorillas in the Mist, you will be walking in Dian’s footsteps all the time you are in the Virungas. It gave me a little chill, but a very pleasant one, and I felt like I was part of the iconic movie for a while.

Nyungwe Forest is a primeval tropical rainforest that is a true African Eden. Think of 275 different bird species – including paradise monarchs flitting through the forest canopy – providing amusement for the 500 wild chimpanzees that live there. The chimps are quite hard to find in their extensive habitat, and I didn’t see any – though I tried hard – but they are there for sure, along with black and white clown-like colobus monkeys and 11 other different primate species. There are also 120 different butterflies, 200 orchid species and 75 species of mammal in this magnificent forest.

Nyungwe Rain forest

Another surprise for me was Lake Kivu, a huge freshwater lake in the west that produces fine eating tilapia fish and is a holiday playground for locals. Seeing the traditional fishing methods was also quite comical. From their traditional boats, fishermen slap the water with long sticks, because they say it attracts the fish to the surface. To be honest, if I was a fish, I’d be scared to greater depths.

But just driving through Rwanda is in itself inspiring. To see how organically and peacefully the people live. Everyone is always busy, and I am completely convinced there are no lazy Rwandans. I also never saw one piece of plastic or litter in the countryside, which was a first for Africa. Some say it’s a sign of true poverty, that every piece of litter is burnt for fuel; I believe it’s the pride Rwandans take in their beautiful country.

Tea pickers

Where to stay

There are swish hotels in the capital Kigali and on the languid Lake Kivu – five stars if you wish. In smaller towns there is always somewhere clean and hospitable to stay and the choice is increasing all the time. Basic accommodation in Rwanda is always pleasant, always clean, and the friendliness of the people makes up for not having Egyptian cotton sheets. For me, it was all part of the authentic experience of Rwanda – simple and real.

Lake Kivu

Dining out

In Kigali there are plenty of options, with great restaurants in the tourist hotels and many other local ones to try out. In smaller towns, I thoroughly enjoyed eating out with the locals in tiny establishments that always served a good plate of chicken and fresh vegetables. Along Lake Kivu, outdoor restaurants serve the fine fish from the lake – best grilled on an open fire. It’s so fresh you expect it to flap around your plate.

In a nutshell

Rwanda is astoundingly beautiful, peaceful and safe. It’s a truly extraordinary country with a lot to teach the rest of Africa about treasuring what you have – as they do their mountain gorillas, and forgiving past mistakes. The people are exemplary, serene, beautiful and utterly dignified. It’s an inspiring country everywhere you go

Farm terraces — Photo Credit: Heinrich van den Berg

Personal highlight

Seeing just how fast Rwandans have rebuilt their morale and their country after the genocide of 1994 – when a million people died in 100 days. Their fortitude, resilience and pride in their heritage are breathtaking. Everyone I spoke to was positive and energized, and they are all emphatic that, while they will never forget the past, they will never again allow such atrocities to happen again – and they believe the future is bright. I do too, because they live their words.

 05  -  11 December 2009

Firstly I wish to express my sincere thanks to Wilderness Safaris for being afforded the opportunity to experience some of your exquisite camps in Botswana and Zambia and to witness some of the spectacular wildlife and cultural sights. It is indeed obvious that conservation is the most important aspect of your ethos and paramount that you protect the fauna and flora. It is also commendable that you include the local community wherever possible. Your slogan is just so apt. You do indeed change people’s lives.

To follow please find the necessary feedback on the individual lodges that were visited during our stay.

Zambia:

Arrived at Livingstone Airport. Impressive airport but just one cubicle open to clear immigration for a relatively full flight. This was quite a lengthy procedure as this counter serviced the people with and without visas and numerous people were having visas issued on arrival. It would also be advisable for arrival forms to be handed out on board to avoid having to complete the forms once inside the airport building and everybody clamming for limited counter space. Met on arrival by your friendly representative who took immediate care of us. Transferred to Toya Leya in a very comfortable vehicle and given some interesting information about the town of Livingstone along the way. We had experienced a huge storm just after landing so the normal entrance to Toya Leya was flooded to had to arrive through the back entrance.

05 December:

Toka Leya

Arrived to a very friendly welcome and detailed briefing regarding the lodge and activities available during our stay. We were shown to our rooms and a quick visit to see the family room. The layout is very cleverly designed and allows for ample space for 4 people sharing. The family room as well as the room I was in are situated amongst quite thick foliage whereas most of the other rooms as situated with open views onto the river which I think would be preferable for hippo sightings from your veranda. We were then treated to our first high tea which was so enjoyable and then onto the river cruise which was just so relaxing and well organised apart from the boat breaking down but another one coming to our rescue in no time at all.

Back to the camp where we all sat around the campfire and treated to the most scrumptious snacks and drinks prior to dinner.  Met up with Martin and a Wilderness client who joined us for dinner. My special dietary requirements (no red meat) were well adhered to and excellent alternatives offered. Wines were also superb and service good.

On the second day we were once again greeted by the warm hospitality of the staff. Always a broad, friendly smile and nothing was ever too much for them. Breakfast was most enjoyable with a wide variety for choice. Well oiled lodge regarding management and staff.

06 December:

River Club   

After breakfast we headed for River Club where we were met by the charming Peter Jones. He is just so proud of his establishment which is wonderful to see. Sat done and had a detailed briefing on the lodge and then did a sight inspection. The main area and pool area/ gardens are very beautiful with gorgeous views of the river and nearby island. It is awfully colonial and would appeal to the older generation in my opinion. It is however conducive to the history and ambience of this area.

The location of the rooms are good but do feel that they require a bit of sprucing up.

The bathrooms are looking rather tired and are in need of a renovation.

Then set off for Victoria Falls which was a treat. Afternoon boat cruise which was very pleasant and conducted by a very competent guide.

Once again had a delicious dinner.

07 December:

Botswana:

Dumatau

Road/ boat transfer to Kasane for flight to Dumatau. Met by our delightful guide who I found to be the most pleasant of all our guides on the trip. Starting pouring with rain en route to the camp but we were handed out the ponchos which kept us relatively dry. Some did however get drenched and maybe something can be implemented to ensure that the ponchos allow for completed protection from the rain. Room/bathroom very comfortable but perhaps the bathroom could be slightly upgraded and toilet area made more private in the case of it not being a couple sharing the room. Other than this a well maintained lodge with extremely friendly and helpful staff. The stand in manager was doing a sterling job. Treated to traditional dancing in the evening prior to dinner.

Savuti

Did a sight inspection of Savuti which is a beautiful lodge. This I would highly recommend to clients. The rooms are stunning and bathrooms out of this world. Family unit also perfect for families. The communal area is very well laid out and nicely decorated. Lovely view onto the Savuti Channel which is now flowing again.

It would appear that the manger is very hands on. Came to our assistance en route when our vehicle broke down a short distance from the lodge.

08 December:

Very good game drive where we saw more wildlife than anywhere else on the trip.

Flight to Vumbara.

Little Vumbura

Met by our guide who was very humorous and kept us entertained for 24 hours.

Lovely entering the camp by boat. Very interesting and detailed briefing by management and shown to our rooms.

This was my favourite lodge and very spoilt to have  had the honeymoon suite. Cannot fault any detail about Little Vumbura. Everything was superb. The attention to detail was very evident. Late afternoon boat trip which was excellent. Got back to camp just before an almighty storm. Food outstanding.

09 December:

A mokoro trip was planned for early morning but once again it was raining so this did not happen. A huge pity as this I would imagine to be very special. Drove to Vumbura Plains.

Vumbura Plains

Very impressive and could certainly determine why it is classified as a premier lodge. The communal area and rooms are just so much larger and definitely have a more opulent feel about them. Met the manageress at south camp and had a general brief of the lodge whilst looking over the magnificent plains where I am sure many a client spends an enormous amount of time doing just that. Visited the family unit at north camp. The layout of the enormous room is gorgeous and having your own splash pool a bonus.

Kwetsani

Flight to Kwetsani. Met by our guide and transferred to the lodge. I did somehow feel that he was lacking knowledge concerning the area. Arrived and met by the most amazing husband and wife managers. They treat you as though they were welcoming you to their own home and their hospitality was commendable.

More traditional décor but the tree houses are beautiful. Thourourly enjoyed my 2 day stay here. Delicious wholesome meals were served.

Went on a short game drive but not much was seen and then proceeded to the mokoro station to have a quick ride through the narrow channels. It was however so peaceful and enjoyable with a little daunting hearing the hippos close by. The lack of wildlife during the green season could present a problem if someone was expecting to see more. This will have to be highlighted if sending clients during this period.

However Lechwe’s abound.

10 December:

Jacana Camp

Sight inspection of Jacana. This camp is somewhat more rustic than any other we had seen but just so cute. Communal area and rooms/bathrooms rather small. The upstairs dining room area allows for beautiful views. I am sure during the high season when the water levels are high, this must be an amazing place to be. Once again the managers ( husband & wife team)  are so funky and just seem to suit the lodge and clientele that it will attract.  Did see a considerable amount of bird life along the way as well as some water inhabited creatures.

Jao Camp

Continued onto Jao Camp which is simply outstanding and once again very visibly understandable why it is a premier camp. Met by the newly appointed husband and wife managers who appear to be hell bend on ensuring that the clients experience the ‘wow factor’.  Just everything about this camp is just mind blowing anyway so not much effort needs to be put in. The 2 pool areas are magnificent as well as the split level communal area and spa. The décor in the elongated rooms does certainly not lack beautiful detail and would be fit for a queen. The outside veranda area and sala is also fantastic for whiling away your time either relaxing or game viewing.

Returned to Kwetsani. Afternoon game drive where not much was seen.

11 December:

Morning at leisure before transferring to the airport for our flight to Maun and return flight to Johannesburg. Wilderness staff at Maun airport were very efficient and took good care of us. All the Sefofane flights between the camps were on time and flown by very experienced and capable pilots.

In summary this was a very enjoyable and highly enlightening experience and did indeed allow me to understand the Delta and realise that it is very important to establish which are water and land based camps and which would be preferable for clients. In general there is very little room for improvement from Wilderness Safaris and just keep doing what you are doing as it really works. The clients we have sent to date, come back raving about your properties and service.  Now I know why.

I will therefore continue to sell your properties with the utmost confidence with my newfound knowledge.

Once again many thanks to Zania Claassen and Wilderness Safaris for a wonderful trip!

Janet