Dancing Sifakas – Berenty, Madagascar

Madagascar: Dancing Verreaux

Seeing these quirky creatures dance between the trees will give you a full belly laugh, or possibly stun you into bemused silence. Sifakas dancing are truly the most bizarre site I have ever seen; just thinking of it makes me laugh.

Because sifakas’ feet are designed for grasping trees, they can’t walk on flat ground. But sometimes the trees they feed in are too far apart for them to jump, which is their usual practice – so they have to dance across the flat ground between them. It’s a kind of sifaka tango.

These Verreaux’s Sifakas have velvety cream coats and jet black faces with a permanently bemused look on them. Their beady brown eyes always look startled and alert, so just looking at their quizzical faces raises a laugh. Then when they side step, pirouette and continue on their dance, well, it’s just side splitting. They spend as little time as possible on the ground, so the dance is fast, followed by a quick jump onto a tree branch where they carry on feeding – as if nothing ever happened.

Berenty in the south of Madagascar is the easiest place to see the dance. Of course they don’t dance on cue, so you may need to be patient and wait a while. But it will be absolutely worth it.

The Annual Wildebeest Migration – Serengeti, Tanzania

Tanzania: Serengeti Migration

The photographs can never tell the story, and while film footage gives a better idea of the scale of the migration, there are not really words to explain being surrounded by millions of moaning wildebeest mingling with zebra.

It’s like looking at an ant colony on a macro scale. As far as you can see, horizon to horizon, there is nothing but wildebeest. They stand around grunting for hours on end, chase each other playfully and generally are just being wildebeest. Then, when the chief zebra advises the head wildebeest it’s time to move, they all start trotting – pied piper style.

I was in a Land Rover in the middle of the herd, and the sound of a few million hooves on sand is like deafening thunder rolling past. The entire herd seems to think with a single mind, called by the literal green grass on the other side of the Mara River in Kenya.

They run and rest all the way from Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing first the Grumeti then the Mara rivers. They leap in faith into the rivers, and by the end of the migration all the crocodiles have full bellies. Some of these crocodiles only eat once a year during the migration, yet they are still the biggest Nile crocodiles in all of Africa.

For me, the migration was overwhelming, breathtaking and a clear demonstration of the triumph of animal instinct and natural selection. During June and July every year, the wildebeest start heading north to Kenya, though the exact dates of departure depend entirely on the chief wildebeest and his zebra advisor.

Endangered Mountain Gorillas – Rwanda

Rwanda: Endangered Mountain Gorilla

Staring into the chocolate brown eyes of a mountain gorilla is like looking into your own soul. There’s a mutual recognition that we are close cousins indeed, maybe too close since mountain gorillas easily contract human diseases. This is why nobody who is ill with a cold or any other condition may trek for gorillas, and why a healthy seven metre distance must be maintained at all times from the gorilla group. If the gorillas move closer, you move back. No food may be eaten while with the gorillas either.

There’s just an hour to spend with them, that’s what’s allowed, but it is an intense hour. I found myself pondering the origin of our species and how all life is really interlinked. How we could be so similar yet so different, and how we presume humans are so superior. I felt I needed to apologise to the gorillas for human behaviour.

I saw the Sabinyo group, but there are a handful of groups habituated to humans. Then there are additional study groups that only researchers from the Karisoke Research Institute have access to. Still, every time a gorilla is born, it’s named and celebrated. And every time one is lost to the bush meat or exotic pet trade, there is despair because there are so few. Just about 250 remain on earth. And since mountain gorillas don’t survive in captivity, supporting their conservation by seeing them in the wild is their only real hope.

Africa’s only Wolf – Ethiopia

They’re elusive and beautiful and live in tiny pockets across Ethiopia, so seeing Africa’s only true wolf gliding across a mountain top is spectacular. Uniquely, Ethiopian wolves do not require an early morning wake-up call to see them. They only get going when the sun is up and the high altitude plateau they live on warms up a bit. As it gets warmer the giant mole rats come out, and so do the wolves – to catch one for breakfast.

Ethiopia: Ethiopian Wolf

In their habitat in the Bale Mountains National Park, the air is raspingly thin, so I was pleased that no physical effort was needed to see them. I drove up onto the 4 000m plateau in a Landcruiser, much like a game drive. After just a half hour of driving I spotted my first lone wolf, its burnt orange coat swiftly sailing across the scubby grey bushes. Then a pounce and he had his first mole rat, which he carried off to enjoy in peace.

It’s a 400km, full day, uber-bumpy drive to get from Addis Ababa to Goba near the base of the Sanetti Plateau, for a wolf visit the following morning. Then it’s a full day’s drive back again. But seeing these highly endangered creatures was well worth the effort. Just to see a wolf in Africa is a unique experience, and a slightly bizarre I thought.

Swimming with Dolphins – Zanzibar

Somehow swimming with dolphins perfectly complements the romance of Zanzibar. Swimming with sharks there just wouldn’t hold the same appeal.

Zanzibar: Kizimkazi dolphins swimming

I went out from Kizimkazi on the east coast, on a boat skippered by a Rastafarian. Boats are basic, possibly with a sunshade, but don’t expect cocktails or canapés on board. The skipper cruised around the dolphin territory until he spotted one, then I baled overboard with mask and snorkel issued, and swam. A helping hand will pull you back onto the boat again.

Of course, it’s entirely the choice of the dolphins if they want to hang around and play. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are just passing through. But I now know why dolphin therapy is successful and can even assist in curing illness. What tranquil, exquisite animals they are, with personalities of their own and a seemingly deep understanding of the human condition. Even if you just have two minutes in the water with them as they pass by, it’s an experience I will never forget.

Lalibela is one of those magical, musical words – like Timbuktu and Casablanca. For me, being there was a little like an ‘out of earth’ experience. Your head tells you that you are in Africa, but your heart feels like it has landed on the moon. That’s not because of the way Lalibela looks, but because of how it feels – completely, utterly, other worldly.

Landing in Lalibela by plane is also a little reminiscent of arriving in the Himalayas or the Andes; it’s high altitude, mountainous, and the air is raspingly thin at over 2 600m. When I visited in May it was also dry and dusty, but in September green grass and spring flowers carpet the mountains and the area becomes a rolling garden.

Ethi culture

There is no earthy comparison for the people and culture of Ethiopia. I was warned that people may be unfriendly, even rude at times. But I found none of that. It’s just that the tall, lean, regal Ethiopians live to a different rhythm to the rest of the world, and sometimes may seem aloof – certainly not unfriendly.

Their calendar, clocks and alphabet also don’t resemble anything I’d ever seen before. Right now, in 2009, it’s only 2002 in Ethiopia, because they follow an ancient calendar of 12 months of 30 days, with one short 13^th month when they don’t earn a salary or pay rent. Time can also be confusing, because the Ethiopian clock is based on 12 hours not 24, and starts at six o’clock. So 7 o’clock western time is one o’clock Ethiopian time, but to my relief the airline adheres to world time.

There are also over 70 languages spoken across the country, but the official one is Amharic – and it is magical. The alphabet resembles dancing figures with no similarity to any other world alphabet. For me, in every possible way, Ethiopia is its own world.

Main attractions

I was completely surprised by the enormous diversity in Ethiopia – from seeing rare Ethiopian wolves on the high altitude Sanetti plateau, just south of Addis Ababa, to sailing in a papyrus boat to remote island monastries on turquoise Lake Tana – also the source of the Blue Nile. Then there are the majestic Blue Nile falls, the rugged Simien mountains in the north, the evocative castles of Gondar – Ethiopia’s Camelot – and bizarre stella fields in Axum, where the Queen of Sheba also lived.

But to me, Lalibela is the heart of Ethiopia, for its ancient ways and fantastical rock hewn churches. There are literally a few dozen of these, all are either subterranean or built into high cliff faces. Some of the mountain churches outside the town are only accessible by ropes and rope ladders, which was a little too much like hard work for me. But the dozen or so subterranean churches in Lalibela town are accessible to everyone who is mobile and doesn’t mind climbing stairs.

The roofs of these churches are all at ground level, and you walk down worn rock stairs to reach the front entrance – and I was personally welcomed in each church by the resident priest. Amazingly all the churches are hand carved from a massive single block of rock, and most are multi storey. It’s breathtaking and I couldn’t believe that human hands could be so artistic and work so meticulously.

Inside, the churches are cool and dimly lit with beeswax candles and the floors are layered with worn carpets. I was fascinated that each church has its own colourful religious book and unique cross, and throughout Ethiopia there are a few hundred different crosses to see. All are based on three core designs, one each from the historic cities of Gondar, Axum and, of course, Lalibela. The intricacy of design in the churches, crosses and elaborate clothing of the priests left me in awe of this truly ancient culture.

Where to stay

In Lalibela – as in the other historic cities of Axum and Gondar – there is basic, clean accommodation available. It’s mostly also comfortable, though mattresses may be a little worn and there may not be running water 24/7. I found it charming and at times quirky, and the friendliness of staff makes up for anything amiss.

Dining out

Injira is Ethiopia’s traditional dish, and you need an open mind and palate to enjoy it. It’s a large, grey fluffy pancake that resembles a face cloth in texture, and piled on it are little heaps of vegetables, sometimes slivers of meat, but always very hot sauces. I believe you have to taste the cuisine of the country you visit for the full experience of its culture. But I still don’t rate Ethiopian cuisine as my all-time favourite. Luckily, plenty of simply prepared western style food is also available, though Ethiopians like to deep fry most things – even fruit. Pasta and good coffee is also everywhere, courtesy of the Italian influence on the country.

In a nutshell

This is one place that you will never forget. It’s truly unlike anywhere else in Africa or on the planet. People range from reserved to very friendly and experiences everywhere are completely unique. I love old Africa and ancient traditions, unusual wildlife and birds, dramatic landscapes and rugged places – and Ethiopia has all of these and more. Lalibela is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, but I believe the whole of Ethiopia should be, because it belongs to a time so ancient you have to see it to believe it.

Personal highlight

Seeing the solid gold cross of Lalibela that only comes out once a week to bless pilgrims. It’s heavy and well worn and a true national treasure. And sitting quietly in the cool, dank churches, where locals visit throughout the day to pray and be still – that was completely unforgettable.

Ethiopia Travel Packages

Historical Tour and Bale National Park – 14 nights
This is a great itinerary offering visitors the opportunity to discover Ethiopia. You will be starting off with the enchanting Historical Route, rich in cultural heritage, followed by the spectacular Bale National Park.

Historical Tour – 9 nights
This is the most popular circuit for those visiting Ethiopia – the ‘Cradle of Mankind’. See a range of fabulous constructions, such as the enchanting castles in Gondar; the imposing obelisks at Axum…

Ethiopia the best: North, East & South – 16 nights
An adventurous itinerary offering a full spectrum of what Ethiopia has to offer. This itinerary encompasses the historical route in the North, Harar in the East and the cultural South.

First impressions

Girl in Nosy Be

Madagascar is completely impossible to box and label. There are so many cultural variations, diverse landscapes, bizarre creatures and customs, it’s a world apart. The warm-hearted friendliness of thepeople struck me immediately on arrival – and lasted for the entire trip. In a place of extreme poverty, they are living proof that money doesn’t equate to happiness. I was constantly amazed at their open hearts and minds and the rich soulfulness of the place, awash in earth colours and rough built French-style homes of mud. And the coast is deliciously tropical with the scent of vanilla on the wind.

Mad culture

Black Lemur

In some areas on the mainland its taboo to hand an egg directly to another person, for girls to wash male underwear or to have funerals on certain days. Other tribes perform ancient bone-turning ceremonies, and one tribe creates erotic funery art to adorn their graves.

On Nosy Be there are sacred lakes where crocodiles live. I fed bananas to black lemurs on nearby Nosy Komba, because here they are revered and protected by locals. And the hand embroidered cutwork curtains I bought there still hang in my bedroom, because they make me smile and remember Nosy Be. I think Madagascar is a place that evokes immediate reaction – you intensely love it or hate it, but it’s impossible to be indifferent. Of all the places I have ever been, Madagascar has crept the deepest under my skin. Every time I visit, I’m already scheming and dreaming how I can return there.

Main attractions

Tsara Komba beach

Mount Passot at 300m is  the highest point on Nosy Be and is surrounded by eight deep-blue crater lakes, with names like Amparihimirahavavy and Antsahamanavaka. My trusty taxi driver Eddie Tsiadiso told me two of these lakes are sacred, and the spirits of the Sakalava and Antakara princes – local tribes in the area – live there. It is also fady or taboo for locals to fish in the sacred lakes, because crocodiles live there – though I never saw any myself. Tourists can’t walk the shores of the sacred lakes either, and they need to be dressed appropriately to visit the non-sacred ones: no smoking, hats, trousers, or any garment pulled over the feet can be worn. So I’m glad I wore a dress for the visit. Driving across Nosy Be reminded me of a primeval Eden, with bouganvilla, vanilla and ylang ylang flanking the road. From the main port Hell-ville, I caught a slow boat ride to Nosy Komba, or Lemur Island. An ancient chief proclaimed the black lemurs there sacred, so they are still protected and fed by locals. They’re so tame, I had them sitting on my shoulders in anticipation of being fed. Lokobe Reserve also protects the black lemur, along with boa constrictors and plenty of chameleons and birds.

Where to stay

There are lots of hotel options on Nosy Be, which means Big Island. Some are more romantic or family orientated than others, so it depends entirely on your needs. I chose Nosy Be Hotel and Amarina Beach to experience different aspects and areas of the island. Getting to Nosy Be, just north west of the mainland, is also easy. Air Madagascar flies there daily and there are even some direct flights from Europe – so it’s not as remote as it feels.

Dining out

Madagascar

Nosy Be map

All the hotels have restaurants that serve a combination menu of western and local dishes. This is the safe option. I tried a few local spots, but often what arrived in front of me was not what I anticipated. Probably because I couldn’t read the menu too accurately. Much is written in Malagasy, which is not quite French and further from English.

In a nutshell

Madagascar will stretch your mind and touch your soul, as it did mine. It’s a place of unspeakable beauty and quirkiness, so it’s important to go with an open mind and a sense of humour. It’s a place that changed me forever, and I love the people and places more each time I visit.

Personal highlight

Feeding the monkey-cat-like lemurs was wow, as was seeing the authentic way locals live. Madagascar is a lesson in living in the now.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Madagascar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/holiday.html

Nosy Be hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/beach-holidays-nosy-be.html

Nosy Be excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1296/madagascar-n.html

2. Reunion – Natural Theatre

First Impressions

St Denis Réunion Island

How could a tiny island speck in the middle of the Indian Ocean be so impossibly First World? Arriving in Reunion’s capital – St Denis – was like expecting pancakes and being served crème brule. I suspect the island may have drifted off course from the French Riviera; sparkling white, French flair buildings cling to the volcanic mountainside, and exotic tropical gardens weaving in between. Somehow I anticipated laid-back island-style and no cellphone signal, shabby chic perhaps, but definitely not spiffy French and smooth tar roads.

For me, Reunion’s quirkiest culture definitely lives in the villages and rugged interior. It’s a place of such stark contrasts and paradoxes, I have to keep pinching myself. The people are split into French and Creole, and here that translates into Catholic and Voodoo. Yes, Voodoo is alive and well in Reunion and the plentiful red roadside shrines are its beacons. Most are adorned with madonnas, candles and incense, although some madonnas acquired curses along the way and had their heads snapped off to show it. I keep my nose clean and focus on natural attractions instead. The Black Madonna who blesses children and the Madonna with Parasole who protects a town from lava flows are really interesting stories though, and not linked too closely to Voodoo.

Main Attractions

Air Austral flies direct to Reunion, so it’s easy to get there. I hired a car and drove the island, keeping to the right and sometimes getting confused in traffic circles. It’s generally easy driving, although next time I’ll choose an automatic. A gleaming asphalt road runs all the way round the island hugging the coastline. Because Reunion is so volcanic, this is the flattest area to build the road. And it took a while for me to realize that this is also the reason the graveyards all have sea views. Some infamous pirates like Le Buse still rest here peacefully. From the air I imagine Reunion looks like a giant chocolate muffin with three holes poked in it. These three volcanic ‘cirques’ are all totally different but equally bizarre. Cirque Mafate still lives in the Middle Ages and is only accessible on foot. Many of the inhabitants, I believe, have never seen cars, certainly never televisions or cellphones. It’s completely lost in time, and I found it refreshing to know there are still places like this in 2009. Cirque Cilaos is the one trekkers frequent. I needed a stiff vanilla rum after negotiating the 100 hairpin bends to get there. But the surrounding rocks look like witches hats and tangled plants hang from them, making the trip enchanting. Cirque Salazie was my personal favourite. Locals told me there are 100 waterfalls in the cirque, but you can’t see them all simultaneously. What I know personally is that one waterfall splashes directly onto the main road into Salazie, so you get a carwash en route. Definitely the most thrilling site must be Piton de la Fournaise in the south east, when you can get close; this moody volcano blew her top the day I arrived in Reunion, so the whole area was shrouded in smoke and ash, cordoned off until she calmed down.

The island is a haven for vulcanologists and there is even a Volcano Museum to put you properly in the picture.

Where to stay

Volcano1 Réunion Island

The range and diversity of accommodation across the island ensures there’s something for everyone. I personally enjoy the middle of the road little beach villas, but staying in a period French B&B in a room surrounded by mirrors was quite quirky too. Some of the bottom of the pile places I found a little basic, but in some remote areas there’s not much choice. Because Reunion is ideal for a road trip, you seldom sleep in a place for more than a night anyway – unless you choose the relaxed beach holiday option.

Dining Out

Reunion map

Ah, Creole food has got to be the finest. Hot and flavoursome. The traditional curry, or cari to locals, is meat or chicken in a tomato sauce infused with garlic, ginger, chilli and thyme. It cleared my sinuses and gave me an endorphin rush for free. French food is plentiful too, I always choose the most traditional food if I can. Oh, and all meals should be washed down with local rum. It comes in so many flavours. In a Nutshell How I wish mainland Africa would take a feather from Reunion. It’s the place of the starkest contrasts and cultures, beliefs and landscapes, but it works like a smooth running machine because everyone minds their own business. If you are looking for the truly extreme and unusual, you’ll find it here. Reunion is for the whole family and the energetic and adventure seekers. Paragliding, surfing, abseiling, trekking, scuba diving – there’re all there.

Personal Highlight

Walking on a pitch black volcanic beach really was surreal for me. Black sand, black rocks and a turquoise Indian Ocean washing over it. That was my earthly Apocolyptic moment. And seeing the Miracle Church in Piton St Rose. The trusty priest stood at the church doors facing a fiery lava flow. When it reached the church steps, the lava split, went round the sides of the church and continued on to the sea. The entire town was incinerated but the church remained untouched, and the solid rock that still encircles the church is clear evidence of the event.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Reunion:

Reunion http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/holidays.html

Reunion self-drive packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/self-drive-packages.html

Reunion beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/beach-holidays.html

Reunion hiking http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/hiking-holidays.html

3. Ethiopia, Lake Tana – the Blue Nile beginning

First impressions

A thread of antiquity runs through the whole of Ethiopia. Wherever you go there is a mix of organic life and very ancient ways of living and being. I never saw gloss or polish, or any hint of veneer – and that is so refreshing. What you see is what you get. The people are elegant and regal, a little stoic but always willing to tell you about their unusual land. I like that, nobody is in your face and there’s no pretence. I believe the whole country should really be a world heritage site for all the treasures it has, many of which remain unspoken and hidden from public eyes. The monastery islands in Lake Tana are just one example.

Ethi culture

deeply rooted christianity

Virtually the whole nation of 74 million practices Orthodox Christianity as their religion. To me as an outsider it seemed a puzzling mix of all the great world religions brewed together and garnished with Ethiopian flair. There are patron saints and Egyptian martyrs, Christian and Jewish figures and a hint of Buddism in the way the people live. What I found remarkable, is that religion is actually lived every day, churches are permanently open and frequented. Religion permeates every aspect of life – and everywhere you go. The other religion in Ethiopia is coffee. Its the birthplace of the brew and elaborate ceremonies are performed when its served. Burning incense and eating popcorn are part of proceedings. I sat quietly and waited to be served, not wanting to fiddle with decorum. If you like truly unusual places, this is it. Ethiopia follows a 12 hour clock, they have 70 languages, their own Amharic alphabet that looks like dancing figures, new year is in September, and their year is 13 months long. So right now it’s 2001 there.

Main attractions

The cool river

Lalibela is well known for its dozens of rock hewn churches, carved from solid rock below ground level. I thought this was it when it comes to unusual churches, but when I arrived in Baha Dar there was lots more to discover. I took a boat trip across the milky turquoise waters of Lake Tana, because I simply wanted to ride across the source of the Blue Nile. Then, 45 minutes later, the skipper of Fanta pulled up on a tiny lake island and said I could ‘see the church if I want’. Right in the middle of this tiny island in the middle of this vast lake was a perfectly round church, elaborately adorned with traditional painting. In the very middle behind red velvet drapes was the holy of holies. ‘No you can’t look inside,’ I was told by the priest, after I removed my shoes. The priest dressed in bright yellow was awaiting his pilgrims. Cross in hand he waited to bless them, so I asked for a blessing too and was tapped lightly on the head. Other islands in Lake Tana house monasteries that only permit male or only female visitors, depending on the monastery’s inclination. And there are many more islands with quaint and quirky churches too. The locals all know where to find them.

Where to stay

Ethiopian Airlines flies between Johannesburg and Addis Ababa daily, and then to main towns in Ethiopia – Baha Dar included. Accommodation outside the capital is all quite basic and mostly clean. You’ll easily find a bed and a bathroom, though there isn’t always hot water – and sometimes there is no water at all. But the reception desk will tell you if there are ‘waterless hours’. I always  asked, just to be sure.

Dining out

honesty of the people

Hotels serve almost exclusively what they consider Western food to be – everything is deep fried. I asked for a plain banana, and it was also proudly served ‘deep fried’. The waiter frowned in disbelief when I asked for a replacement – with the skin on. Local food takes an open mind to enjoy. Injira (a grey, tef based pancake that resembles a facecloth) is usually served with an assortment of ‘blow your head off’ hot sauces, sometimes also with chopped cabbage and chips. In smarter eateries, finely chopped meat in fiery sauce may also accompany the injira. Breakfast omelettes also come with a good dose of chilli, unless you request them plain. I learnt quickly that everything should be ordered ‘plain’, even though I love hot food. Ethiopian ‘hot’ is something quite special.

In a nutshell

Ethiopia map

The honesty and realness of the place grabbed me, and the way people live just as their ancestors did. Frequenting the same churches, riding in Egyptian style papyrus boats and against a backdrop of extreme hardship and poverty. Ethiopia taught me a lesson in family values and the importance of community, because that counts more than possessions and grandeur.

Personal highlight

I thoroughly appreciated the gentle pace of life and the proud grittiness of the people. It ticked me that tourist boats on Lake Tana have a dedicated skipper and a busy baler, who ensures the water stays mostly in the lake.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Ethiopia:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/holiday.html

Historical Packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/historical-and-cultural-holidays.html

Ethiopia hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/hotels.html

4. Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago- Islands in the stream

First impressions

Paradise

This is where watercolours and tales of Robinson Crusoe were born. From the plane window, swirls of turquoise lay below me with tiny verdant islands sprinkled into the middle distance. The Quirimbas look like emeralds embedded on aquamarine in an opulent necklace. When I landed on Medjumbe, the ‘welcome to paradise’ from staff wasn’t tongue in cheek either – I was actually thinking ‘paradise found’. This island, off the coast of Mozambique near the border with Tanzania, is the quintessential tropical paradise, and there are quite a few more in the archipelago: Matemo and Ibo for starters. But wherever you go in the Quirimbas, time stands still so watches and even calendars are redundant. Days are governed by the tides, when you can fish and dive and swim. I could certainly live like this.

Moz culture

Ibo Island Lodge evening dinner

The people of Mozambique are an evocative mix with roots in Portugal and Africa, the best of both. It’s mirrored in the spectacular seafood and caipirinha cocktails, and chill and cashews are always close at hand. For me, this is the ultimate menu. And being able to dip in the ocean whenever you please made me feel really alive. I felt invigorated and energized and omnipotent with natural rhythm ruling the days.

Main attractions

The old lighthouse on Medjumbe adds atmosphere to the splendour that surrounds you, and having the whole island as your private playground made me feel like child again – footloose and free. Matemo’s working village near the lodge gave me powerful insights into local life in Mozambique, and I brought home a piece of traditional Maluane indigo cloth to remember that feeling of absolute freedom. My trip to Ibo transported me to a distant age of Portuguese colonialism and I could easily imagine the opulent life once lived there. Almost every male and landmark here is named João, for the island’s patron saint, and I bought a piece of filigree jewelry to remember the ancient ways of Ibo. Traditional silversmiths in the old fort melt down old coins and fashion intricate lacy pieces from the metal, all by hand. I think patience lives here too. All these islands also offer boating and fishing trips and scuba diving on pristine coral reefs amidst rainbows of fish. There’s windsurfing and kayaking and anything else you can imagine doing in or on the sea. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you love sun, sand and sea.

Where to stay

Ibo Island Lodge lazy afternoon

Ibo Island Lodge is on the ocean’s edge and is a converted manor house with swinging couches on the verandah and four poster beds in the rooms. I loved the place’s simplicity and unexpected splashes of opulence. They also serve excellent crab dinners. On Matemo there is only one lodge also overlooking the sea – and it welcomes the whole family. Individual palm thatched suites are tucked between beach palm trees, and inside is decadent East African décor. Matemo has a touch of Arabia, reflecting the owner’s roots. Medjumbe is a private island catering for couples, so there’s just the one intimate lodge with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. I spent hours in my private pool with just sea sand between me and the ocean. In the evenings I lazed in my hammock and watched the light change to dark and stars. It was like being suspended in time and space. The Quirimbas are quite remote, but getting there is easy on LAM and Airlink. There are regular flights from Johannesburg to Pemba and then CFA charter flights onto the islands.

Dining out

On the Quirimbas you dine in. Each lodge has its own restaurant serving a range of seafood and other fresh fare. I always choose seafood, so by the time I left crayfish, crab, prawns, calamari and all the local fish had been tasted and ticked. It is truly divine dining.

In a nutshell

Mozambique map

If you want to forget the world exists, that trouble and chaos are possible and traffic jams ruin your days, the Quirimbas will make this all a distant memory. I imagine these postcard perfect islands gently wash out mind and soul for all who visit them. They did for me, and I left inspired and ready to take on the world.

Personal highlight

Wafting along in a traditional dhow with local fishermen, the white sail flapping overhead and the rough carved boat cutting through the warm water, that was my moment of heaven on earth. I could breathe, breathe, breathe and I could feel fresh energy filtering through me.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Mozambique:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/holidays.html

Quirimbas: Ibo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Matemo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Medjumbe http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique.html

Vamizi  http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-2.html

Mozambique all beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/beach-holidays.html

5. Zanzibar – Dusted with Spice

First impressions

I fastened my seatbelt to land in Zanzibar, prepared to be disappointed. From the air, rusty red tin roofs wedged between palm trees welcomed me, and I could only imagine that a shanty town lay beneath. But not. Zanzibar, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, is intoxicating. Heady, hot and humid, here it translates to sultry and balmy. Sprinkled with the spices of India and the vibrancy of Arabia.

Zanzi culture

Stone Town Alley

The alleyways of Stonetown, I imagine, are just the same as they were a century ago. They’ve worn smooth from a million feet and tiny hole in the wall shops sell all the things tourists and locals lust for. Spices and exotic oils, the intricate geometric wood carvings Zanzibar is known for, and colourful patterned fabrics or khangas – always in two pieces: one for the waist and the other to cover the head in the Muslim way. I had no idea the sweet faced Swahili people had adopted the ways of Allah so closely. Zanzibar used to have the ring of Timbuktu, way off the beaten track. But today it’s well visited by travellers like me, who enjoy places that assault your senses with smells and tastes and sights that echo a melting pot of origins. I think that every nation who ever built a boat has in some way left a footprint on this heady little island. You can taste it in the food and see it in the architecture.

Main attractions

Matemwe bungalow

Nowadays Zanzibar is easy to get to, with a few direct flight options from South Africa – including 1Time. And it’s nice and compact, so you can drive across the island in an hour, and from top to bottom in just a little longer. But the roads are not smooth highways. I wedged into a taxi – between a smooth facedSwahil woman in all black and a spacey Rastafarian – to go swimming with dolphins on the east coast. There are plenty of snorkeling and diving places too. On the way back, red colobus monkeys peeped from their treetops as the minibus

crossed the Jozani Forest. On Prison Island I fed wild spinach to giant hundred year old Aldabra tortoises and lay on the deserted beach in the sun. Best of all was sailing on a traditional wooden dhow with sackcloth sails to get there. The skipper’s name was Captain Morgan.

Where to stay

Right on the beachfront of Stonetown, is the best place to stay because it’s perfectly central and so easy to wander the labyrinth of alleyways of the surrounding old quarter. Getting lost and found in the tangle of winding streets is the real charm of the place but I soon learnt my way around. Feeling safe encourages leisurely wandering, and a willing soul will always guide you back if you need it.

Dining out

Zanzibar map

In the evenings, the Foradhani market comes alive and I walked through a mesh of  mopeds and bicycles to buy fresh fish and octopus kebabs for supper – cooked over open coals with the Indian Ocean

as backdrop. All the locals dine there at night, walking, eating and chatting as they go. For desert I chewed sugar cane with the locals. I can still taste it in my mind.

In a nutshell

I imagine Zanzibar must be the African Jamaica – relaxed and laid back with reggae wafting on the wind. Virtually everyone you pass greets you with “Jambo, habari?” or “Hello, how are you?” No answer is required, just a smile. This is without doubt the friendliest place I’ve ever been; the warm heart of Africa. How I hope it never changes.

Personal highlight

Ambling the tangle of alleyways in Stonetown and chatting to the locals reminded me what it means to live authentically and in natural rhythm. I realized also that you can’t truly get lost here, because all roads eventually lead home.

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Church scholars reckon Ethiopian History spans 7,492 years going by its own chronology and calendar, from the time of Genesis to the present.

The name Ethiopia, meaning “land of burnt face” in Greek, according to one derivation, was already known in 3000 B.C.

Records going back to 6000 years tell of Egyptian diplomatic missions and trade expeditions to Punt. This was a kingdom on the Horn of Africa that thrived for a thousand years, controlling both sides of the Red Sea from centers in what is present day Ethiopia.

Archaeological findings abound in Ethiopia, covering sites stretching in the Rift Valley from the Omo River Valley in the southwest to the Afar Depression in the northeast. These consist of hominid remains dating up to four million years old, some of the earliest man-made tools ever recorded and imprints of human settlement said to be no less than one and a half million years old. All this has earned Ethiopia the epithet “cradle of mankind! “