Unusual Destinations Blog

In a similar vein to Mexico’s Festival of the Dead, the bone turning ceremonies in Madagascar honour the ancestors in a celebration where laughing and weeping are both perfectly normal.

Just south of the capital is the colourful little town of Antsirabe, where the ruling Merina tribe also live. Patric Niaina owns an intricately painted rickshaw there, and ferries locals around in his hand-drawn taxi. But, today he’s taken the day off work and donned his smartest outfit for a trip into the hills just outside of town. It’s a big day for him. His family is holding an auspicious bone-turning ceremony to honour their ancestors, and Patric is not missing it for anything.

With Patric navigating, we wind along well worn sand roads, through the mountains but see absolutely no sign of a ceremony. Then as we round a corner, there is a heaving gathering of people on the hillside. The national flag is being held high and people are milling around energetically. “That’s the famadihana,” says Patric, “it has already started.”

It’s a hot, dusty afternoon, and we arrive to a cacophony of music, singing and raucous revelry. Rice and rum are everywhere, being served from little stalls under rainbow umbrellas. We are quickly enfolded in dust and fresh rum fumes, and are definitely the only sober guests there. But, in a bid to change that, we are quickly handed a bottle of rum for an obligatory swig. It tastes like swallowing razor blades, but this is the traditional brew of Madagascar, and there is no way around it today.

The tomb has already been opened and the crowd mills around the entrance, some weeping, others laughing, some seemingly indifferent to the magnitude of the occasion. A family will save for five to 10 years to be able to afford such a ceremony, because it entails mountains of rice and plenty of rum, as well as new shrouds, gifts and the prized zebu cattle that are slaughtered as part of the ritual.

First one skeletal mummy is carried out of the tomb, rolled in a hand-woven grass mat and held high above the surrounding crowd. Then another and another emerges, until five family members are lying side by side on the grass – their heads facing east. Some of the living family draw near to tell the latest news and happenings in the village, others ask for advice, and still others stand in silence and simply watch the proceedings.

Not wanting to impose, we keep moving back in the crowd, but are constantly yanked forwards to be a part of the ceremony and to see exactly what is going on. It’s difficult to hear what is being said, amidst all the singing and chanting, laughing and crying – and liberal swigging of rum from bottles being passed through the crowd. But we respectfully oblige and stand with the family.

Then the mats are gently unrolled by chosen family members, and each mummy is wrapped in a new white shroud to cover the old one. All the time, the family continues talking to their dead ancestors as if they were perfectly alive and part of the party. It is an almost surreal experience for western eyes, but one we will never forget. The Malagasy reverence and respect for their ancestors is deep and real.

Patric stands with us, rum in hand and watches as intently as we do. “This is a big day for the family,” he says sipping his neat rum, “and it is very special that you are here. It is a blessing and good luck for us.” Then, an elder places a small gift on the chest of each mummy and inscribes their name on the shroud – in felt tip marker pen. A new straw hat and a photograph of each ancestor are also placed on their chests. In between proceedings, a childless woman tears a tiny piece of shroud to place under her pillow in the hope of bearing children, and another lovingly strokes the skeletal remains of her grandmother.

Then after more rum, and with plenty of dancing and singing, the crowd gives the ancestors a jovial send off – back into the cool tomb. It will be a good few years before the family will host another bone turning ceremony, but they start saving for it immediately.

While the Merina and Betsileo tribes are the only ones to practice bone-turning ceremonies in Madagascar, each of the 18 tribes on the island have rituals to honour the dead. Because, for the Malagasy, death is the most important part of life and the dead have far more power than the living.

With the mummies all safely back in the family tomb, celebrations start winding down. It’s been three days of full throttle revelry for the crowd, and they are growing weary. Rum fumes still permeate the air, as the last guests settle down to enjoy bowls of rice. Patric has settled in with his family and we afford him privacy and head back to Antsirabe. But first, we respectfully thank him for allowing us to attend this personal ritual, and hand him a bottle of rum as a traditional gift. “Thank you,” he says, “the honour was all mine.” And with a rum-soaked smile, he screws off the cap and takes a long swig.

If you’re a wildlife enthusiast and have a ‘bucket list’ of things to see and do before you die, Africa has plenty to offer. In no particular order, here are five wildlife highlights that just have to be seen to be believed.

Dancing Sifakas – Berenty, Madagascar

Seeing these quirky creatures dance between the trees will give you a full belly laugh, or possibly stun you into bemused silence. Sifakas dancing are truly the most bizarre site I have ever seen; just thinking of it makes me laugh.

Because sifakas’ feet are designed for grasping trees, they can’t walk on flat ground. But sometimes the trees they feed in are too far apart for them to jump, which is their usual practice – so they have to dance across the flat ground between them. It’s a kind of sifaka tango.

These Verreaux’s Sifakas have velvety cream coats and jet black faces with a permanently bemused look on them. Their beady brown eyes always look startled and alert, so just looking at their quizzical faces raises a laugh. Then when they side step, pirouette and continue on their dance, well, it’s just side splitting. They spend as little time as possible on the ground, so the dance is fast, followed by a quick jump onto a tree branch where they carry on feeding – as if nothing ever happened.

Berenty in the south of Madagascar is the easiest place to see the dance. Of course they don’t dance on cue, so you may need to be patient and wait a while. But it will be absolutely worth it.

The Annual Wildebeest Migration – Serengeti, Tanzania

The photographs can never tell the story, and while film footage gives a better idea of the scale of the migration, there are not really words to explain being surrounded by millions of moaning wildebeest mingling with zebra.

It’s like looking at an ant colony on a macro scale. As far as you can see, horizon to horizon, there is nothing but wildebeest. They stand around grunting for hours on end, chase each other playfully and generally are just being wildebeest. Then, when the chief zebra advises the head wildebeest it’s time to move, they all start trotting – pied piper style.

I was in a Land Rover in the middle of the herd, and the sound of a few million hooves on sand is like deafening thunder rolling past. The entire herd seems to think with a single mind, called by the literal green grass on the other side of the Mara River in Kenya.

They run and rest all the way from Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing first the Grumeti then the Mara rivers. They leap in faith into the rivers, and by the end of the migration all the crocodiles have full bellies. Some of these crocodiles only eat once a year during the migration, yet they are still the biggest Nile crocodiles in all of Africa.

For me, the migration was overwhelming, breathtaking and a clear demonstration of the triumph of animal instinct and natural selection. During June and July every year, the wildebeest start heading north to Kenya, though the exact dates of departure depend entirely on the chief wildebeest and his zebra advisor.

Endangered Mountain Gorillas – Rwanda

Staring into the chocolate brown eyes of a mountain gorilla is like looking into your own soul. There’s a mutual recognition that we are close cousins indeed, maybe too close since mountain gorillas easily contract human diseases. This is why nobody who is ill with a cold or any other condition may trek for gorillas, and why a healthy seven metre distance must be maintained at all times from the gorilla group. If the gorillas move closer, you move back. No food may be eaten while with the gorillas either.

There’s just an hour to spend with them, that’s what’s allowed, but it is an intense hour. I found myself pondering the origin of our species and how all life is really interlinked. How we could be so similar yet so different, and how we presume humans are so superior. I felt I needed to apologise to the gorillas for human behaviour.

I saw the Sabinyo group, but there are a handful of groups habituated to humans. Then there are additional study groups that only researchers from the Karisoke Research Institute have access to. Still, every time a gorilla is born, it’s named and celebrated. And every time one is lost to the bush meat or exotic pet trade, there is despair because there are so few. Just about 250 remain on earth. And since mountain gorillas don’t survive in captivity, supporting their conservation by seeing them in the wild is their only real hope.

Africa’s only Wolf – Ethiopia

They’re elusive and beautiful and live in tiny pockets across Ethiopia, so seeing Africa’s only true wolf gliding across a mountain top is spectacular. Uniquely, Ethiopian wolves do not require an early morning wake-up call to see them. They only get going when the sun is up and the high altitude plateau they live on warms up a bit. As it gets warmer the giant mole rats come out, and so do the wolves – to catch one for breakfast.

In their habitat in the Bale Mountains National Park, the air is raspingly thin, so I was pleased that no physical effort was needed to see them. I drove up onto the 4 000m plateau in a Landcruiser, much like a game drive. After just a half hour of driving I spotted my first lone wolf, its burnt orange coat swiftly sailing across the scubby grey bushes. Then a pounce and he had his first mole rat, which he carried off to enjoy in peace.

It’s a 400km, full day, uber-bumpy drive to get from Addis Ababa to Goba near the base of the Sanetti Plateau, for a wolf visit the following morning. Then it’s a full day’s drive back again. But seeing these highly endangered creatures was well worth the effort. Just to see a wolf in Africa is a unique experience, and a slightly bizarre I thought.

Swimming with Dolphins – Zanzibar

Somehow swimming with dolphins perfectly complements the romance of Zanzibar. Swimming with sharks there just wouldn’t hold the same appeal.

I went out from Kizimkazi on the east coast, on a boat skippered by a Rastafarian. Boats are basic, possibly with a sunshade, but don’t expect cocktails or canapés on board. The skipper cruised around the dolphin territory until he spotted one, then I baled overboard with mask and snorkel issued, and swam. A helping hand will pull you back onto the boat again.

Of course, it’s entirely the choice of the dolphins if they want to hang around and play. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are just passing through. But I now know why dolphin therapy is successful and can even assist in curing illness. What tranquil, exquisite animals they are, with personalities of their own and a seemingly deep understanding of the human condition. Even if you just have two minutes in the water with them as they pass by, it’s an experience I will never forget.

1. Madagascar’s Nosy Be – Lazy days and lemurs

First impressions

Madagascar is completely impossible to box and label. There are so many cultural variations, diverse landscapes, bizarre creatures and customs, it’s a world apart. The warm-hearted friendliness of thepeople struck me immediately on arrival – and lasted for the entire trip. In a place of extreme poverty, they are living proof that money doesn’t equate to happiness. I was constantly amazed at their open hearts and minds and the rich soulfulness of the place, awash in earth colours and rough built French-style homes of mud. And the coast is deliciously tropical with the scent of vanilla on the wind.

Mad culture

In some areas on the mainland its taboo to hand an egg directly to another person, for girls to wash male underwear or to have funerals on certain days. Other tribes perform ancient bone-turning ceremonies, and one tribe creates erotic funery art to adorn their graves.

On Nosy Be there are sacred lakes where crocodiles live. I fed bananas to black lemurs on nearby Nosy Komba, because here they are revered and protected by locals. And the hand embroidered cutwork curtains I bought there still hang in my bedroom, because they make me smile and remember Nosy Be. I think Madagascar is a place that evokes immediate reaction – you intensely love it or hate it, but it’s impossible to be indifferent. Of all the places I have ever been, Madagascar has crept the deepest under my skin. Every time I visit, I’m already scheming and dreaming how I can return there.

Main attractions

Mount Passot at 300m is  the highest point on Nosy Be and is surrounded by eight deep-blue crater lakes, with names like Amparihimirahavavy and Antsahamanavaka. My trusty taxi driver Eddie Tsiadiso told me two of these lakes are sacred, and the spirits of the Sakalava and Antakara princes – local tribes in the area – live there. It is also fady or taboo for locals to fish in the sacred lakes, because crocodiles live there – though I never saw any myself. Tourists can’t walk the shores of the sacred lakes either, and they need to be dressed appropriately to visit the non-sacred ones: no smoking, hats, trousers, or any garment pulled over the feet can be worn. So I’m glad I wore a dress for the visit. Driving across Nosy Be reminded me of a primeval Eden, with bouganvilla, vanilla and ylang ylang flanking the road. From the main port Hell-ville, I caught a slow boat ride to Nosy Komba, or Lemur Island. An ancient chief proclaimed the black lemurs there sacred, so they are still protected and fed by locals. They’re so tame, I had them sitting on my shoulders in anticipation of being fed. Lokobe Reserve also protects the black lemur, along with boa constrictors and plenty of chameleons and birds.

Where to stay

There are lots of hotel options on Nosy Be, which means Big Island. Some are more romantic or family orientated than others, so it depends entirely on your needs. I chose Nosy Be Hotel and Amarina Beach to experience different aspects and areas of the island. Getting to Nosy Be, just north west of the mainland, is also easy. Air Madagascar flies there daily and there are even some direct flights from Europe – so it’s not as remote as it feels.

Dining out

All the hotels have restaurants that serve a combination menu of western and local dishes. This is the safe option. I tried a few local spots, but often what arrived in front of me was not what I anticipated. Probably because I couldn’t read the menu too accurately. Much is written in Malagasy, which is not quite French and further from English.

In a nutshell

Madagascar will stretch your mind and touch your soul, as it did mine. It’s a place of unspeakable beauty and quirkiness, so it’s important to go with an open mind and a sense of humour. It’s a place that changed me forever, and I love the people and places more each time I visit.

Personal highlight

Feeding the monkey-cat-like lemurs was wow, as was seeing the authentic way locals live. Madagascar is a lesson in living in the now.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Madagascar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/holiday.html

Nosy Be hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/beach-holidays-nosy-be.html

Nosy Be excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1296/madagascar-n.html

2. Reunion – Natural Theatre

First Impressions

How could a tiny island speck in the middle of the Indian Ocean be so impossibly First World? Arriving in Reunion’s capital – St Denis – was like expecting pancakes and being served crème brule. I suspect the island may have drifted off course from the French Riviera; sparkling white, French flair buildings cling to the volcanic mountainside, and exotic tropical gardens weaving in between. Somehow I anticipated laid-back island-style and no cellphone signal, shabby chic perhaps, but definitely not spiffy French and smooth tar roads.

For me, Reunion’s quirkiest culture definitely lives in the villages and rugged interior. It’s a place of such stark contrasts and paradoxes, I have to keep pinching myself. The people are split into French and Creole, and here that translates into Catholic and Voodoo. Yes, Voodoo is alive and well in Reunion and the plentiful red roadside shrines are its beacons. Most are adorned with madonnas, candles and incense, although some madonnas acquired curses along the way and had their heads snapped off to show it. I keep my nose clean and focus on natural attractions instead. The Black Madonna who blesses children and the Madonna with Parasole who protects a town from lava flows are really interesting stories though, and not linked too closely to Voodoo.

Main Attractions

Air Austral flies direct to Reunion, so it’s easy to get there. I hired a car and drove the island, keeping to the right and sometimes getting confused in traffic circles. It’s generally easy driving, although next time I’ll choose an automatic. A gleaming asphalt road runs all the way round the island hugging the coastline. Because Reunion is so volcanic, this is the flattest area to build the road. And it took a while for me to realize that this is also the reason the graveyards all have sea views. Some infamous pirates like Le Buse still rest here peacefully. From the air I imagine Reunion looks like a giant chocolate muffin with three holes poked in it. These three volcanic ‘cirques’ are all totally different but equally bizarre. Cirque Mafate still lives in the Middle Ages and is only accessible on foot. Many of the inhabitants, I believe, have never seen cars, certainly never televisions or cellphones. It’s completely lost in time, and I found it refreshing to know there are still places like this in 2009. Cirque Cilaos is the one trekkers frequent. I needed a stiff vanilla rum after negotiating the 100 hairpin bends to get there. But the surrounding rocks look like witches hats and tangled plants hang from them, making the trip enchanting. Cirque Salazie was my personal favourite. Locals told me there are 100 waterfalls in the cirque, but you can’t see them all simultaneously. What I know personally is that one waterfall splashes directly onto the main road into Salazie, so you get a carwash en route. Definitely the most thrilling site must be Piton de la Fournaise in the south east, when you can get close; this moody volcano blew her top the day I arrived in Reunion, so the whole area was shrouded in smoke and ash, cordoned off until she calmed down.

The island is a haven for vulcanologists and there is even a Volcano Museum to put you properly in the picture.

Where to stay

The range and diversity of accommodation across the island ensures there’s something for everyone. I personally enjoy the middle of the road little beach villas, but staying in a period French B&B in a room surrounded by mirrors was quite quirky too. Some of the bottom of the pile places I found a little basic, but in some remote areas there’s not much choice. Because Reunion is ideal for a road trip, you seldom sleep in a place for more than a night anyway – unless you choose the relaxed beach holiday option.

Dining Out

Ah, Creole food has got to be the finest. Hot and flavoursome. The traditional curry, or cari to locals, is meat or chicken in a tomato sauce infused with garlic, ginger, chilli and thyme. It cleared my sinuses and gave me an endorphin rush for free. French food is plentiful too, I always choose the most traditional food if I can. Oh, and all meals should be washed down with local rum. It comes in so many flavours. In a Nutshell How I wish mainland Africa would take a feather from Reunion. It’s the place of the starkest contrasts and cultures, beliefs and landscapes, but it works like a smooth running machine because everyone minds their own business. If you are looking for the truly extreme and unusual, you’ll find it here. Reunion is for the whole family and the energetic and adventure seekers. Paragliding, surfing, abseiling, trekking, scuba diving – there’re all there.

Personal Highlight

Walking on a pitch black volcanic beach really was surreal for me. Black sand, black rocks and a turquoise Indian Ocean washing over it. That was my earthly Apocolyptic moment. And seeing the Miracle Church in Piton St Rose. The trusty priest stood at the church doors facing a fiery lava flow. When it reached the church steps, the lava split, went round the sides of the church and continued on to the sea. The entire town was incinerated but the church remained untouched, and the solid rock that still encircles the church is clear evidence of the event.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Reunion:

Reunion http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/holidays.html

Reunion self-drive packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/self-drive-packages.html

Reunion beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/beach-holidays.html

Reunion hiking http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/hiking-holidays.html

3. Ethiopia, Lake Tana – the Blue Nile beginning

First impressions

A thread of antiquity runs through the whole of Ethiopia. Wherever you go there is a mix of organic life and very ancient ways of living and being. I never saw gloss or polish, or any hint of veneer – and that is so refreshing. What you see is what you get. The people are elegant and regal, a little stoic but always willing to tell you about their unusual land. I like that, nobody is in your face and there’s no pretence. I believe the whole country should really be a world heritage site for all the treasures it has, many of which remain unspoken and hidden from public eyes. The monastery islands in Lake Tana are just one example.

Ethi culture

Virtually the whole nation of 74 million practices Orthodox Christianity as their religion. To me as an outsider it seemed a puzzling mix of all the great world religions brewed together and garnished with Ethiopian flair. There are patron saints and Egyptian martyrs, Christian and Jewish figures and a hint of Buddism in the way the people live. What I found remarkable, is that religion is actually lived every day, churches are permanently open and frequented. Religion permeates every aspect of life – and everywhere you go. The other religion in Ethiopia is coffee. Its the birthplace of the brew and elaborate ceremonies are performed when its served. Burning incense and eating popcorn are part of proceedings. I sat quietly and waited to be served, not wanting to fiddle with decorum. If you like truly unusual places, this is it. Ethiopia follows a 12 hour clock, they have 70 languages, their own Amharic alphabet that looks like dancing figures, new year is in September, and their year is 13 months long. So right now it’s 2001 there.

Main attractions

Lalibela is well known for its dozens of rock hewn churches, carved from solid rock below ground level. I thought this was it when it comes to unusual churches, but when I arrived in Baha Dar there was lots more to discover. I took a boat trip across the milky turquoise waters of Lake Tana, because I simply wanted to ride across the source of the Blue Nile. Then, 45 minutes later, the skipper of Fanta pulled up on a tiny lake island and said I could ‘see the church if I want’. Right in the middle of this tiny island in the middle of this vast lake was a perfectly round church, elaborately adorned with traditional painting. In the very middle behind red velvet drapes was the holy of holies. ‘No you can’t look inside,’ I was told by the priest, after I removed my shoes. The priest dressed in bright yellow was awaiting his pilgrims. Cross in hand he waited to bless them, so I asked for a blessing too and was tapped lightly on the head. Other islands in Lake Tana house monasteries that only permit male or only female visitors, depending on the monastery’s inclination. And there are many more islands with quaint and quirky churches too. The locals all know where to find them.

Where to stay

Ethiopian Airlines flies between Johannesburg and Addis Ababa daily, and then to main towns in Ethiopia – Baha Dar included. Accommodation outside the capital is all quite basic and mostly clean. You’ll easily find a bed and a bathroom, though there isn’t always hot water – and sometimes there is no water at all. But the reception desk will tell you if there are ‘waterless hours’. I always  asked, just to be sure.

Dining out

Hotels serve almost exclusively what they consider Western food to be – everything is deep fried. I asked for a plain banana, and it was also proudly served ‘deep fried’. The waiter frowned in disbelief when I asked for a replacement – with the skin on. Local food takes an open mind to enjoy. Injira (a grey, tef based pancake that resembles a facecloth) is usually served with an assortment of ‘blow your head off’ hot sauces, sometimes also with chopped cabbage and chips. In smarter eateries, finely chopped meat in fiery sauce may also accompany the injira. Breakfast omelettes also come with a good dose of chilli, unless you request them plain. I learnt quickly that everything should be ordered ‘plain’, even though I love hot food. Ethiopian ‘hot’ is something quite special.

In a nutshell

The honesty and realness of the place grabbed me, and the way people live just as their ancestors did. Frequenting the same churches, riding in Egyptian style papyrus boats and against a backdrop of extreme hardship and poverty. Ethiopia taught me a lesson in family values and the importance of community, because that counts more than possessions and grandeur.

Personal highlight

I thoroughly appreciated the gentle pace of life and the proud grittiness of the people. It ticked me that tourist boats on Lake Tana have a dedicated skipper and a busy baler, who ensures the water stays mostly in the lake.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Ethiopia:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/holiday.html

Historical Packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/historical-and-cultural-holidays.html

Ethiopia hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/hotels.html

4. Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago- Islands in the stream

First impressions

This is where watercolours and tales of Robinson Crusoe were born. From the plane window, swirls of turquoise lay below me with tiny verdant islands sprinkled into the middle distance. The Quirimbas look like emeralds embedded on aquamarine in an opulent necklace. When I landed on Medjumbe, the ‘welcome to paradise’ from staff wasn’t tongue in cheek either – I was actually thinking ‘paradise found’. This island, off the coast of Mozambique near the border with Tanzania, is the quintessential tropical paradise, and there are quite a few more in the archipelago: Matemo and Ibo for starters. But wherever you go in the Quirimbas, time stands still so watches and even calendars are redundant. Days are governed by the tides, when you can fish and dive and swim. I could certainly live like this.

Moz culture

The people of Mozambique are an evocative mix with roots in Portugal and Africa, the best of both. It’s mirrored in the spectacular seafood and caipirinha cocktails, and chill and cashews are always close at hand. For me, this is the ultimate menu. And being able to dip in the ocean whenever you please made me feel really alive. I felt invigorated and energized and omnipotent with natural rhythm ruling the days.

Main attractions

The old lighthouse on Medjumbe adds atmosphere to the splendour that surrounds you, and having the whole island as your private playground made me feel like child again – footloose and free. Matemo’s working village near the lodge gave me powerful insights into local life in Mozambique, and I brought home a piece of traditional Maluane indigo cloth to remember that feeling of absolute freedom. My trip to Ibo transported me to a distant age of Portuguese colonialism and I could easily imagine the opulent life once lived there. Almost every male and landmark here is named João, for the island’s patron saint, and I bought a piece of filigree jewelry to remember the ancient ways of Ibo. Traditional silversmiths in the old fort melt down old coins and fashion intricate lacy pieces from the metal, all by hand. I think patience lives here too. All these islands also offer boating and fishing trips and scuba diving on pristine coral reefs amidst rainbows of fish. There’s windsurfing and kayaking and anything else you can imagine doing in or on the sea. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you love sun, sand and sea.

Where to stay

Ibo Island Lodge is on the ocean’s edge and is a converted manor house with swinging couches on the verandah and four poster beds in the rooms. I loved the place’s simplicity and unexpected splashes of opulence. They also serve excellent crab dinners. On Matemo there is only one lodge also overlooking the sea – and it welcomes the whole family. Individual palm thatched suites are tucked between beach palm trees, and inside is decadent East African décor. Matemo has a touch of Arabia, reflecting the owner’s roots. Medjumbe is a private island catering for couples, so there’s just the one intimate lodge with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. I spent hours in my private pool with just sea sand between me and the ocean. In the evenings I lazed in my hammock and watched the light change to dark and stars. It was like being suspended in time and space. The Quirimbas are quite remote, but getting there is easy on LAM and Airlink. There are regular flights from Johannesburg to Pemba and then CFA charter flights onto the islands.

Dining out

On the Quirimbas you dine in. Each lodge has its own restaurant serving a range of seafood and other fresh fare. I always choose seafood, so by the time I left crayfish, crab, prawns, calamari and all the local fish had been tasted and ticked. It is truly divine dining.

In a nutshell

If you want to forget the world exists, that trouble and chaos are possible and traffic jams ruin your days, the Quirimbas will make this all a distant memory. I imagine these postcard perfect islands gently wash out mind and soul for all who visit them. They did for me, and I left inspired and ready to take on the world.

Personal highlight

Wafting along in a traditional dhow with local fishermen, the white sail flapping overhead and the rough carved boat cutting through the warm water, that was my moment of heaven on earth. I could breathe, breathe, breathe and I could feel fresh energy filtering through me.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Mozambique:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/holidays.html

Quirimbas: Ibo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Matemo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Medjumbe http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique.html

Vamizi  http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-2.html

Mozambique all beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/beach-holidays.html

5. Zanzibar – Dusted with Spice

First impressions

I fastened my seatbelt to land in Zanzibar, prepared to be disappointed. From the air, rusty red tin roofs wedged between palm trees welcomed me, and I could only imagine that a shanty town lay beneath. But not. Zanzibar, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, is intoxicating. Heady, hot and humid, here it translates to sultry and balmy. Sprinkled with the spices of India and the vibrancy of Arabia.

Zanzi culture

The alleyways of Stonetown, I imagine, are just the same as they were a century ago. They’ve worn smooth from a million feet and tiny hole in the wall shops sell all the things tourists and locals lust for. Spices and exotic oils, the intricate geometric wood carvings Zanzibar is known for, and colourful patterned fabrics or khangas – always in two pieces: one for the waist and the other to cover the head in the Muslim way. I had no idea the sweet faced Swahili people had adopted the ways of Allah so closely. Zanzibar used to have the ring of Timbuktu, way off the beaten track. But today it’s well visited by travellers like me, who enjoy places that assault your senses with smells and tastes and sights that echo a melting pot of origins. I think that every nation who ever built a boat has in some way left a footprint on this heady little island. You can taste it in the food and see it in the architecture.

Main attractions

Nowadays Zanzibar is easy to get to, with a few direct flight options from South Africa – including 1Time. And it’s nice and compact, so you can drive across the island in an hour, and from top to bottom in just a little longer. But the roads are not smooth highways. I wedged into a taxi – between a smooth facedSwahil woman in all black and a spacey Rastafarian – to go swimming with dolphins on the east coast. There are plenty of snorkeling and diving places too. On the way back, red colobus monkeys peeped from their treetops as the minibus

crossed the Jozani Forest. On Prison Island I fed wild spinach to giant hundred year old Aldabra tortoises and lay on the deserted beach in the sun. Best of all was sailing on a traditional wooden dhow with sackcloth sails to get there. The skipper’s name was Captain Morgan.

Where to stay

Right on the beachfront of Stonetown, is the best place to stay because it’s perfectly central and so easy to wander the labyrinth of alleyways of the surrounding old quarter. Getting lost and found in the tangle of winding streets is the real charm of the place but I soon learnt my way around. Feeling safe encourages leisurely wandering, and a willing soul will always guide you back if you need it.

Dining out

In the evenings, the Foradhani market comes alive and I walked through a mesh of  mopeds and bicycles to buy fresh fish and octopus kebabs for supper – cooked over open coals with the Indian Ocean

as backdrop. All the locals dine there at night, walking, eating and chatting as they go. For desert I chewed sugar cane with the locals. I can still taste it in my mind.

In a nutshell

I imagine Zanzibar must be the African Jamaica – relaxed and laid back with reggae wafting on the wind. Virtually everyone you pass greets you with “Jambo, habari?” or “Hello, how are you?” No answer is required, just a smile. This is without doubt the friendliest place I’ve ever been; the warm heart of Africa. How I hope it never changes.

Personal highlight

Ambling the tangle of alleyways in Stonetown and chatting to the locals reminded me what it means to live authentically and in natural rhythm. I realized also that you can’t truly get lost here, because all roads eventually lead home.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Zanzibar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/holiday.html

Zanzibar beach http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/beach-holidays.html

Zanzibar Stone Town http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/stone-town-hotels.html

Excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/day-excursions.html

Are you interested in pirates? The newly opened pirate museum in Antananarivo (Tana) is a real treasure trove.

Pirates discovered Madagascar 300 years ago and the island quickly became a favourite hideaway for notorious characters such as Blackbeard, William Kidd as well as a host of lesser known female pirates.  Now in memory of this nefarious bunch of people a pirate museum has opened in Antananarivo detailing the lives and tales of the pirates who crisscrossed the Indian Ocean between mainland Africa and Madagascar and as far away as the Caribbean. Find out about the mysterious pirate republic of Libertalia on Ile Sainte Marie.

Opening times
Mon to Fri         08:00 – 17:00
Sat & Sun         on request only

The museum is situated in the centre of town, 200 m from the main train station.

Combine your vacation with a shopping trip in Tana and then spend the rest of your trip on Ile Sainte Marie at Baboo Village **, Boraha Village *** or Princesse Bora Lodge & Spa ****.

Ile Sainte Marie (Nosy Boraha), a 57 km-long island off Madagascar’s east coast, is an authentic tropical island with lush vegetation interspersed with many small villages. This island is beautiful, offering the ultimate escape from civilisation. The hotels along its coast range from basic to classy establishments with all necessary modern facilities. The lush surroundings bring to mind images of an enormous tropical garden. It’s ideal for honeymoon couples or anybody with a romantic flair. Ile Sainte Marie boasts numerous white sandy beaches and secluded coves, fringed with coconut palms. The coral reefs offshore offer excellent snorkelling and scuba diving. In August and September, hump-backed and other types of whales migrate here and are a huge attraction. The roads beckon mountain bikers and most hotels hire bicycles and snorkelling gear.

The Pirate Cemetery is located on the islet in the harbour near the main town Ambodifotatra. At high tide the transfers will be done by pirogue.

A guide is not really necessary for the actual graveyard (usually no English spoken). The cemetery is small some of the names you will recognise are William Kidd (died 1834), though his was a monument, rather than a tomb and other: Joseph Pierre Le Chartier (’tue 1837 par son ami, a cause de sa femme’ – killed by this friend because of his wife); Mme Rivet nee Giraudeau (1862); Jean-Marie le Thomas (1875).

In 1999 and 2000, Barry Clifford and his Project Team completed three major expeditions to Ile Ste. Marie off the coast of Madagascar, as a Discovery Channel “Quest” initiative, where five shipwreck sites were discovered; including the Adventure Galley (flagship of the infamous William Kidd) and the Fiery Dragon, commanded by the pirate William “Billy One-Hand” Condon. The other three shipwreck sites have been tentatively identified as the Ruparrel, The Mocha Frigate, and The New Soldado. After discovering and decoding cryptic rock carvings, he then used ground penetrating radar to explore an apparent tunnel-complex, similar to the Oak Island “Money Pit”, which may have been constructed by late 17th-century pirates.

Ile Aux Nattes is a small island south of Ile Sainte Marie. Off its idyllic beaches are some of the best reefs in the Malagasy region. This is a wonderful option for budget travellers. Boat transport to and from the nearby Ile Sainte Marie is easy to arrange. No cars on the island!

Pirates in Madagascar Newsletter

Antananarivo Market

20 – 25 June 2009

Saturday, 20 June 2009

Flight MD 125 – Johannesburg to Antananarivo
On check in we were invited by Pierre from Air Madagascar to the Premiere Lounge where we met up with the rest of our group.  Our flight was delayed by 2 hours.  I was seated next to 2 Moslem ladies who had requested a special meal.  The air hostess was not aware of this, but quickly made a plan and with no effort at all warmed up a seafood meal for them.  I was most impressed that they went the extra mile to accommodate their dietary requirements.  It is important to note that there is no in flight entertainment on board the Air Madagascar flights.  I advised the Air Madagascar representatives that should they wish to attract more of the ‘family’ market from SA, they would need to at least provide colouring in books and pencils for children.  It is also necessary for us to inform our younger travellers of this so that they are prepared and can take goodies along to keep themselves occupied.

On arrival in Antananarivo, we were welcomed by Maherry Andriamamonjy from Air Madagascar head office.  We were advised that we had missed the connecting flight to Nosy Be and that he would accompany us to Hotel Du Louvre  in the CBD of Antananarivo where we would be accommodated for the evening.  After dinner we decided to explore the city and found a local Karaoke bar within walking distance of the hotel, where we experienced a true night on the town for the Malagasy’s.  We had our own James Blunt, Hannah Montanah and Celine Dion in our party.

Hotel Du Louvre
The hotel is undergoing a general upgrade it seems.  Rooms are comfortable – more of a corporate hotel, but ideally located with a view of the city and the Presidents Palace.

Sunday, 21 June 2009

We had the morning at leisure before our flight to Nosy Be and as a group we decided to take taxis to the market.  We enjoyed good bargaining and shopping.  Items mostly purchased were, woven baskets, tablecloths, gem stones, wooden crafts, authentic paintings and wired art.   At no time during our stay in Antananarivo did we feel unsafe due to political unrest or see anything out of the ordinary.

At 13:10 we departed for Nosy Be on Air Madagascar flight MD 124 via Diego.  The flight from Antananarivo to Diego was 1h30  where we then re-fuelled and continued our journey to Nosy Be a further 25 minutes flight.   I highly recommend that until such time that there is a direct flight to Nosy Be, that clients itineraries include one night in Antananarivo otherwise you will have disappointed clients stranded due to possible delayed flights.

What a warm welcome we received by Nosy Be Tourism.  We were greeted by two Malagasy song and dance groups.

We spent the evening at the Nosy Be Hotel with our stunning host Elma Ross.  We were treated to welcome drinks on the beach followed by a site inspection and dinner.

Nosy Be Hotel http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-g-madag.html

Awesome property, with all the comforts you would expect from a 4 – 5 star hotel.  Although I was surprised that the hotel only has a 3 star grading.  The rooms are very comfortable, beautifully decorated and no attention to detail lacks.  There is a boat house for the diving fanatics and every evening bookings are taken for the next days excursions, etc.  The beach is well kept and from 06:00 in the morning the team is already raking the beach and ensuring that guests have the best possible ‘beach’ experience.   From Nosy Be Hotel, you can see Nosy Sakatia.

Nozy Be Zebu

Monday, 22 June 2009

We had an early start and departed by bus to Madiorokely where we were transferred by boat to Nosy Komba.  Visited the awesome Tsara Komba.  Exclusive, well run property owned by a consortium of French owners who started the property more as part of a dream than for it to be a business.   All lodges are private and have a sea view.  From the airport, the transfer time is 1 hour to Tsara Komba.  A recommended excursion from the property is a motorized pirogue that only takes 2 people for a trip around the island of Nosy Komba, including a stop off for lunch and a bit of shopping in the village. For the diving enthusiasts, there is a 27m deep wreck to be viewed not too far from the shore.

We continued our journey by boat to visit Floralies hotel Bungalows www.bungalows-floralies.com I loved this property.  The bungalows are right on the beach, rustic, but comfortable.  Not commercialized at all, although within walking distance to the local village.  Whilst walking through the village, you can purchase handmade goods, vanilla and linen tablecloths.  This is also the home of the Lemurs, who come and sit on your shoulder – my one tried to steal my sunglasses off my head.  The visit to the Lemurs is a must and makes for good photo opportunities.

We then boarded our boat and visited Domaine De Lokobe  www.nosybe-lokobe.com where we did a site inspection and enjoyed lunch.  The hotel is very French and clients will have a 4* experience although the property is officially only graded 3 star.  Language can be a challenge as it was difficult to communicate with the owners who are very French and speak minimal English.  The rooms are beautifully appointed and we were advised that the property is not very children friendly.

After lunch we were transferred by boat to Nosy Tanihely, which is home to Lemurs, flying foxes and wild life – no humans live on this island.  At Nosy Tanihely, we connected with the Nosy Iranja boat transfer to Nosy Iranja. http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-e-madag.html

We were met on the beach by a stunning team of Nosy Iranja staff, cocktails, etc.  The 29 private suites are beautifully appointed, with an open plan setting.  All suites have a sea view.  Nosy Iranja is ideal for honeymooners, although a 7 night stay might be a bit too long.

A visit to Nosy Iranja (Island of the turtles) will not be complete without viewing the newly hatched turtles – this was an amazing experience – just to see nature take its course and these little creatures make their way down to the ocean.  The sunset from Nosy Iranja is unforgettable and not to be missed when visiting this very romantic spot.

It is important to note that the generators are put off between 23:00 – 06:00 daily.  I was surprised that there were no torches available and that the candle provided was not in a container, but had to be erected in a saucer if used.  We had a beach dinner whereafter it was low tide and the sand bank was visible between Nosy Iranja and as they call it ‘big’ Iranja.  We all walked over to the other island.  It is imperative to be aware that even though you are on a private island, you need to ensure that valuables are locked away in the safe provided in the suite.

Tuesday, 23 June 2009

We had an early start and departed Nosy Iranja at 07:00 to visit Nosy Sakatia, where we visited Sakatia Lodge and Sakatia Passions.  At Sakatia Lodge, 75% of their business is from South Africa.  There are apparently awesome coral reefs to be viewed.  Sakatia Passions  www.sakatia-passions.com caters for the fishing fanatics and families alike.

Across the bay, back on Nosy Be, we visited Chanty Beach http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-c-madag.html
Nestled right on the beach and a beautiful garden, the rooms are looking a bit tired.  They offer dinner, bed and breakfast although the rooms are also suitable as a self catering option due to the small kitchenette.

The visit to Amarina Hotel http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-a-madag.html was my favourite.  The team is so professional and although there is a strong Italian and French flair, once in this resort hotel, you feel like you are in Mauritius.  The beach is lovely and from the minute you arrive, you feel welcome and at home although surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens and comfortable, luxurious bedrooms.  Amarina Hotel is ideal for conference and incentive groups and can accommodate 90 pax cinema style seating.  From a recreation perspective, the hotel offers varied options, ie. Bicycle rental, volleyball court, fitness room, spa, etc.  This hotel will be very suitable to the SA market and it is highly recommended that we offer our clients a fully inclusive option at this property.

Sangany Lodge is a relatively new property located on the south side of Amporaha Beach.  Although our brochure indicated that they have a tree-house honeymoon bungalow, this is still very much under construction.  The signature of this property, is definitely the fact that there is a variety of different bath tubs in the individual suites as well as awesome showers fitted in private courtyards.  The furnishings and finishes are of a very high standard although I got the feeling that I was still on a construction site.  In my opinion, the hotel still lacks atmosphere and the gardens need to still be developed, specifically on the sea facing side of the villas.

A short boat trip brought us to Anjiamarango Beach Resort.  The owners are very French and we were thankful for our guide Jean-Pierre would could translate.  The villas are comfortable and spacious although the furniture was not of such a good quality and standard as which is the norm in Nosy Be.  The suites are all private and sea facing and at no time will there be other guests walking past the front of your suite.  There is a large mural of lemurs in the reception / dining area which I personally felt did not lend itself to a warm, upmarket ambience.

After a hectic morning of visiting ‘structures’ (as they call hotels in Madagascar), lunch was enjoyed at Table d’Alexandre Restaurent a Antosoha.

Our next stop was Explora Village  www.exploravillage.com Rustic bungalows, ideally located for the launching of speed boats, etc.  Also the ideal starting point for an Amazing Race programme for incentives.  I liked the relaxed environment of Explora Village for clients that have budget restrictions and do not require all the fancy extra’s whilst visiting this amazing destination.

Our last ‘structure’ visit of the day was at  Eden Spa  www.nosybe-edenspa.com which is located right next to Explora Village.  The property is definitely aimed at the traveller who is open to the more ‘holistic’ approach to life – spritual healing, colour therapy, etc.  They also have massage facilities.  The rooms are very basic and they can accommodate a maximum of 30 pax at the property.  Eden Spa is not located at the beach and definitely caters for a specific client. Personally, not a property that I will recommend.

Vanila Hotel were our hosts for the evening.  What a beautiful property.  Loads of atmosphere with a professional team of hoteliers.  The hotel has approximately 20 gardeners that manicure this immaculate tropical setting.  They are in the process of building a spa (with 5 jacuzzi’s) that will probably open in September / October 2009.  Vanila Hotel will then be the first hotel in Nosy Be with a spa.  Vanila Hotel is also an attractive option for conference and incentive groups as they have a conference room that can host approximately 30 delegates.   Here I had a lovely dinner with Nivo.

Wow, what a day this was – but really worth it.  Due to the fact that we lost a day as a result of our delayed flight, Nosy Be Tourism tried their utmost to still showcase the island to us as per our original itinerary.  Our agenda was jam packed, but worth it from a product knowledge point of view.

Wednesday, 24 June 2009

Nosy Be Quad Excursions took us out on a 2 hour excursion to Mont Passot (the highest point in Nosy Be) – what a view.  The quad trip was very enjoyable and I realized I do have a ‘Need for Speed’ and is ideal for that ‘adrenalin rush’.  The team that took us out was very professional and cautious.  An awesome way to experience Nosy Be and a nice inclusion for a corporate or incentive group, incorporating a Survivor or Amazing Race theme.

A site inspection was conducted at Auberge Orangea  www.orangea-nosybe.com a typical Italian resort in accordance to the ‘Club Med’ resort style.  This was also the only property which visibly had a substantial amount of tourists in house.  They are normally full for the bulk of the year as they have scheduled group arrivals from Italy on a weekly basis.

Our visit to La Maison des Parfums was brief.  Although rates are extremely attractive and they are prepared to offer us fully inclusive rates and complimentary airport shuttle, I am hesitant that we might receive guest complaints if we support this property.  The maintenance is of a poor standard and gardens have long grass which has visibly not been given attention in a while.

The site inspection of Catamarans at Madavoile Yachting  www.madavoile.com was definitely a highlight for me.  Why not offer our clients ‘Island hopping’ in Madagascar – why do you need to go to Greece when you have Madagascar. Stunning for small groups and ideal for living in a sarong all day – diving off for a swim and stopping off for dinner at one of the islands or watching the sunset from your Catamarn or Yacht.

Hotel Gerard et Francine  www.gerard-et-francine.com is quaint, homely and tranquil.  Located on the beach and very competitively priced.  From a location point of view, clients can walk to town for shopping or experience the night life.

L’heure Bleue treated us to lunch with a 180 degree view of the bay.  This bungalow hotel has picturesque views and is tastefully decorated and within a very short walking distance to the beach.  I can definitely recommend this property.

The afternoon was spent in a workshop with owners of structures, tour operators and members of the Nosy Be Tourism Authority.

Accommodation was at the Royal Palm – awesome 4* hotel www.royalbeach.mg.  Highly recommended hotel with conferencing facilities for approximately 100 pax.  5 minutes drive from the shopping area and night life.

We were hosted for dinner at Madiro Hotel – site inspection was conducted although the rooms are all dark and very 2*.  The restaurant has loads of atmosphere and lends itself as an ideal dinner option for groups.  Unfortunately the food was not great.  Regardless, we enjoyed our farewell Malagasy dinner, whereafter we went out for a night on the town to experience the night life.

Thursday, 25 June 2009

A heavy mood amongst the group, as we made our way first to town for a bit of shopping and then to the airport.  Our flight, MD 321 (direct to Antananarivo) was delayed by 1h30 and the Air Madagascar staff were clearly concerned that should the flight from Antananarivo to Johannesburg not be delayed, we would miss our connection and only depart Antananarivo on Saturday, 27 June 2009.  Regardless, all worked out well and they held the connecting flight to OR Tambo for us.

It was the end of a memorable educational trip to this beautiful island.  I most definitely look forward to sharing my experience of this awesome destination with my clients, family and friends.

GENERAL INFORMATION:

1. Past tourism statistics reflect that the bulk of their visitors are Italians, with the French in second place and SA featuring in the Top 10.
2. In January 2009, Air Madagascar stopped their direct flight from Italy to Antananarivo and hotel occupancies have decreased tremendously as a result thereof.
3. Hotels were all empty and on certain evenings, we were the only guests in the hotel.
4. August – October is Whale Season and this also attracts visitors.
5. During October – March annually, many international cruise liners visit the waters of Madagascar.
6. Nosy Be ideal for wedding, honeymoon and family holidays.
7. Elma is busy putting together ‘traditional Malagasy’ wedding packages – where clients can marry in country of residence and then experience a traditional wedding in Nosy Be – this could be a good selling tool for the traditional wedding clients that are looking for something totally different and ‘out the box’.
8. Our tour guide, Jean Pierre can be highly recommended.  He can be contacted at tourguides@yahoo.fr and works in association with the Tourism Board.
9. South Africa is Madagascar’s closest neighbour that can assist in increasing their tourism statistics.
10. The island is exceptionally quiet – certain hotels having no bookings in the system for the months of July and August 2009, as well as their peak period, December holidays.
11. In comparing tourist arrival stats into Nosy Be for January and February 2008 to 2009, there was a 61% growth.  The latter will probably not be the case for 2010 as a result of the economic meltdown and not necessarily as a result of the politicial situation in Antananarivo.
12. As a member of the Unusual Destinations team, I was well received by all in Nosy Be and I now know that we are the true “Madagascar Specialists” in the South African market.