Lasopy
(Madagascar Vegetable Soup)

Lasopy (Madagascar Vegetable Soup) is a traditional Madagascar recipe for a classic vegetable soup of carrots, turnips, string beans and tomatoes in a broth made from veal bones.

Ingredients: recipes

1.5kg veal bones
2l water
2 tbsp salt
3 carrots, peeled and cut into three equal pieces
1 small turnip, peeled and cut into chunks
7 spring onions cut into large pieces
200g fresh string beans
200g tomatoes, quartered
1/2 tsp black pepper

Method:

Add the veal bones, water and salt to a pot, bring to a simmer, cover and cook for 1 hour before adding all the remaining ingredients. Simmer for a further hour, or until the vegetables are tender.

Remove the veal bones, render the vegetables to a puree, return to the stock in the pot, cook for a further 5 minutes and serve.

Akoho sy Voanio
(Chicken in Coconut Milk)

Akoho sy Voanio (Chicken in Coconut Milk) is a traditional Madagascar recipe for a classic dish of fried chicken served in a coconut milk, onion and tomato sauce flavored with cayenne pepper and ginger.

Ingredients:

1 chicken, cut into bite-sized pieces
juice of 1 lemon
1 tsp grated lemon zest
salt, black pepper and cayenne pepper to taste
2 onions, chopped
2 garlic cloves, minced
3 tomatoes, chopped
2 tsp ground ginger
250ml coconut milk
oil for frying (coconut oil preferable)

Method:

Mix together the chicken, lemon juice, lemon rind, salt, pepper and cayenne in a large bowl and set aside to marinate for a few hours.

Heat the oil in a large casserole pot and fry the onion and garlic in this for a few minutes before adding the chicken. Continue cooking until the chicken is almost done then reduce the heat and add the tomatoes and ginger. Stir for a few minutes before adding the coconut milk. Allow to simmer over low heat until the chicken has fully cooked and the sauce is thickened. Serve on a bed of rice.

Kitoza (biltong a la Malagasy)

Kitoza is a traditional Madagascar recipe for a classic form of dried beef that’s typically warmed before serving with polenta.

Ingredients:

lean beef cut to 5cm wide, 14cm long and 1cm thick.

Method:

Remove any fat or membranes from the meat then cut the meat into strips as defined above. String the meat onto a clean cord (it’s easiest to do this with a needle and thread). Hang the beef in a sunny location, making certain that none of the strips touch or overlap (in front of a window, indoors is ideal). After several hours the beef will darken and become completely dry.

Place the kitoza in a clean, dry, airtight container until ready to serve (for hygiene and safety reasons it’s best to keep in the fridge and to serve within a couple of days).

To serve, briefly heat the kitoza over a very low fire either on a barbecue or a frying pan. Serve hot along with polenta (cornmeal) porridge and rice.

Sakay

Sakay is a traditional Madagascar recipe for a classic relish of hot chillies, ginger and garlic in oil typically served in individual portions as an accompaniment.

Ingredients:

100g hot chillies pounded to a paste
1 tbsp ginger, finely grated
2 garlic cloves, crushed
4 tbsp oil

Method:

Place all the ingredients in a pestle and mortar or a food processor and render to a paste. Serve in little ramekins as an accompaniment to main dishes.

Desserts

Salady Voankazo
(Fruit Salad with Lychees)

Salady Voankazo (Fruit Salad with Lychees) is a traditional Malagasy recipe for a classic fruit salad of pineapple, melon, oranges, strawberries and lychees served in a vanilla-flavored syrup.

Ingredients:

150g fesh pineapple, cut into 2cm cubes
120g canteloupe melon, cut into 12mm dice
150g oranges, peeled and thinly sliced into rounds
70g strawberries, sliced
80g lichees (tinned is fine)
100g sugar
120ml water
1/4 tsp salt
2 tbsp lemon juice
2 tbsp vanilla extract

Method:

Combine the fruit in a 2l glass serving bowl then arrange the lychees on top.

In the meantime combine the sugar, water, salt and lemon juice in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and continue boiling hard for 1 minute before taking off the heat and adding the vanilla extract. Allow to cool to room temperature then chill in the refrigerator for 60 minutes.

Pour the chilled syrup over the fruit and serve with a shaker bottle of vanilla extract.

Antananarivo Deux Cheveaux

Day 1, 12 May: Antananarivo

Flying off with Airlink was a pleasure. The flight takes a mere three hours and was excellent!

Za Tours met us at the airport and everyone was introduced. Rija from Za Tours was our guide who travelled with us throughout the journey.  The face towels and the bottles of water were most welcome. A short bus ride to La Digue market where we were greeted with a first taste of Malagasy life, colourful baskets, car toys made from old tins, silk shawls and vocal vendors vying for our attention.

Check in at the Palissandre Hotel & Spa was efficiently handled. We all freshened up and left for the Lizzy Gallery for some MORE shopping. Lizzy’s boutique is always a success, I of course could not leave without another raffia box. Driving through Antananarivo gave us a good feel for this bustling city especially as traffic is very slow in peak hours so you get the chance to really observe another world.

After all this shopping we were all starving so it was off to the best restaurant in town called
“Kudeta”   – a fabulous meal with too many bottles of wine and great ambiance!

Masoala walk on the beach

Day 2, 13 May: Charter flight Antananarivo to Masoala Peninsula

Early up and about to start off a fun day. We were transferred back to Ivato Airport in time to board our private charter with TOA Charters. The reception area is quite luxurious and offers showers for passengers who are embarking later on international flights.  Everything is done for you! All we had to do was enjoy a cup of coffee, board our seven seater Piper and head off into the blue yonder to Masoala Peninsula.
Flight time approximately 90 minutes with jaw dropping aerial views. I was amazed to see just how large the Baie of Antongile is from the air. Nosy Mangabe is centred in the middle of the Baie and I realised then why it was such a great pirate hideaway in the old days.
On arrival Paula (from Masoala Forest Lodge) met us and we were then bustled into two tatty old taxis and off to Maroantsetra harbour (Unfortunately there are just no other better cars around – this was it!). We were met by Pierre and his crew at the harbour. Now the interesting part….. we had to clamber over an old steam boat in order to board the smaller Masoala Forest Lodge boat. This boat had a canopy but beware the one hour boat ride is a rough one as you leave the canal behind and enter the sea.  To compensate for the rough journey we rewarded with breathtaking view of the lowland rainforest which actually borders the ocean.  I wondered what else was awaiting us in these forests?

Private Charter to Masoala

Getting on terra firma it was wonderful to meet Sandra and Duncan from Masoala Forest Lodge who were waiting for us. What a lovely welcome!. We settled into the camp followed by some useful guidelines regarding the use of the lights, torches and hot water facilities. A scrumptious lunch ensued followed by a short talk from Sandra introducing the Masoala Peninsula and its quirky wildlife to us.  Next adventure…… we all headed off with Felix the local guide for a forest walk. He is the third partner of Masoala Forest Lodge. We strolled along quiet coves littered with huge boulders and turquoise sea all around – Sheena commented how the sand squeaked when we walked meaning it is pristine and untouched.  Our first sighting was is a boa constrictor followed by a number of different chameleons whilst listening to the calls of the exotic birds around us. Rija (our Za Tours guide) pointed out many of the insects, chameleons and birds. No lemurs yet…

We hopped into two traditional pirogues and were taken into a lagoon to enjoy the tranquillity of the bay. This setting was quite reminiscent of the “Madagascar” movie – the leaves seemed to have smiling faces and the trees are so huge you want to hug them.

Did we really hear the rare Helmut Vanga? We definitely had great sightings of Drongos and a cute Malagasy flycatcher.

Back to the lodge by sunset and time for a quick shower and delicious dinner. I fell asleep with all the flaps open and fell asleep listening to the torrential rain whilst tucked up warm and comfortable in my bed!

Please note

• Set meals are provided for the three main meals of the day. Meal times are flexible depending on the activities. Packed lunches are provided if the day’s activity requires it. Special food requirements or vegetarian meals or sea food, will be catered for if notified in advance. Snacks and refreshments such as  tea, coffee and fruit juice, are always available.
• Be suitably dressed for the boat trip with sun and rain protection handy and sandals and your active-wear clothing and footwear.

Masoala

Day 3, 14 May: Masoala National Park

After a fresh breakfast (homemade bread, homemade yoghurt, fresh fruit etc) we started off on another into the primary rainforest of Masoala National Park to view the birds, lemurs and countless other creatures endemic to this forest. Felix and Rija were in their element.  Due to time restraints we went by boat to the entrance of the park. I just loved the view of the thick forest encompassing the mountain right down to the beaches.  Being so tropical we had a few light showers and once again the marvel of nature as you see how the canopy of the forest absorbs the rainfall and only we only felt slight drizzle. The paths are very steep and we were grateful for our sturdy shoes which are a must to grip the slippery paths.  You need to wear long pants to protect your skin as well.  Remember to cover your cameras against the damp.

Masoala Red Ruffed Lemur

The sounds of the forest are an amazing, the trees are get bigger and bigger and are festooned with orchids and Tarzan like vines growing everywhere. Finally the rain stopped to our relief but this was short lived as a few minutes later the heavens opened again. Our raincoats proved invaluable. Since it was warm I decided just get drenched and live with it!  On a happier note did we hear the red-ruffed lemurs?  Yes! We finally get a up close and personal sighting of them on top of the mountain. Just the two of them are playing in the trees and needless to say we are all mesmerised and push on into the thick forest to get even closer.  The lemurs seem to share the same fascination with us humans and watch us with the same intent.

Towards midday we walked back to the beach along a river (which I proceed to fall into – in the most ladylike way I must admit). I was able to save my backpack with my goodies in it. Picked myself up and on we went amidst the mirth of my fellow companions.

Back to the camp for a well earned lunch and well earned afternoon siesta.  Donna and I felt energetic and decided to try out kayaking around the baie.  Comfortable kayaks (two man) warm water and  peaceful surroundings.

A pre-dinner night walk reveals relatively little, the mouse lemurs are not cooperating and stay well hidden. We found a couple of sleepy birds and some very annoyed chameleons and spiders.

Yet another great meal (fresh fish, vegetables and vanila cream made out of vanila crops from the area). My last night under the canvas tent listening to the sounds of the forest. I am sad to leave  this little Eden.

Masoala good bye

Day 4, 15 May: Masoala to Anjajavy

Up and early again to head off on our boat transfer to Maroantsetra. The boat ride is rough and we are all tired and heartsore to leave. A quick stop at Relais de Masoala (small lodge) to freshen up after the 90 minute boat trip. Many of our clients stay the first or last night at this hotel with its lovely gardens and comfortable rooms. It has a swimming pool and a great location along the inland canal.  Road transfer back to the airport where our charming pilot was waiting for us.

Take off and most of us slept on the plane ride. The one hour flight to Anjajavy is a delight for me, I have never flown this route and I am amazed at the high mountains and plateaus below us on descent to the Anjajavy area.

Anjajavy Karen Rita Donna

Another great landing on a private airstrip. Anna from Anjajavy met us. A quick pee pee stop (they have facilities at the airstrip) and we drive 30 minutes in a small bakkie (ute) to Anjajavy Hotel. Hurray… we spot our first Sifaka lemurs. This wakes us all up!

On arrival we are so impressed with the reception area which has amazing views over the swimming pool and Indian Ocean – it really takes your breath away. Anjajavy is truly beautiful and unspoiled.  The staff were charming and did your check in very professionally and speedily. Soon armed with a cocktail in our hands and short briefing of the resort we teetered off to our luxury bungalows.

After being in a tropical humid like such as Masoala it was a delight to have dry clothing and climate. Lunch was served in the chic restaurant and then it was more siesta time to chill and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.  Did I tell you about the Sifaka Lemurs I saw on my way to lunch? Chilling in the low branches I got some great sightings. What a pleasure seeing these beautiful animals so close with such ease.

We met up again for a pre-dinner night walk and we could not believe our luck. The mouse lemurs were perky and running up and down the trees for us like little showmen. Chameleons, nocturnal birds and the highlight for me was the Sportive Lemur we came upon at the end of the walk. Tick, tick the list.

Dinner was served in the main restaurant and the hotel went to town with the décor and ambiance.  We were entertained by the local village dancers who introduced Malagasy animals and showed us traditional dances from all over Madagascar.

A busy day under our belts and we all fell into bed and slept like babies. The bungalows are spacious and well laid out. The verandas offer incredible views of the ocean and for for some of us the air-conditioning was a treat!.

Anjajavy

Day 5, 16 May: Anjajavy

Morning at leisure. I woke up  full of energy and went off to explore the seven private beaches and made sure that I swam in each cove. I interrupted across a flock of Sicklebilled Vangas and we all frighten each other. My running disturbed a few snakes on the path as well…..I loved the solitude of these beaches knowing my footsteps were the first this morning.

Anjajavy organises beach picnics for all our guests and it is so unique to have a beach completely to yourselves in this crazy world we live in. Whilst I was discovering the beaches, my travel companions were treating themselves to deserved massages. We all met up for lunch and exchanged stories.

Anna fetches us at 15h00 and we are off  to Moromba Bay for a sundowner excursion.  This bay is known for its mushroom-like outcrops and Baobabs on the beaches. We get the chance to see the Sakalalva graves deeply hidden in the rugged cliffs and two Fish Eagles show off above us. How perfect was this day.

Our farewell dinner tonight is at the poolside and it sets the tone for a fun evening and lots of laughs.  I am sure I am not the only one sad to be leaving this amazing island.

Private Charter

Day 6, 17 May: Anjajavy – Antananarivo and flight out.

Our pilot awaits us, luggage is stored away and we board our small plane for the last time. 90 minutes and we are back in the midst of Antananarivo. Last minute shopping (girls love shopping!) before we check  in for our Airlink flight back to Johannesburg. A few lumpy throats, hugs and good byes before we head back to Johannesburg.

Packing suggestions

• Documents
• Passport, air ticket/s
• Visas (we will get our visas on arrival, no costs involved).
• Photocopy of the first 4 pages of your passport (to be kept separate from your passport);
• Money – cash and travellers cheques (keep copies of serial numbers in a separate location); VISA credit cards can only be used in Antananarivo at Palissandre Hotel, restaurant and at Hotel Anjajavy)
• Money belt.

Anjajavy

Clothing

• Sun- or bush-hat;
• T-shirts and one long-sleeved cotton shirt;
• Rain jacket
• Shorts, skirts, long trousers;
• Tracksuit, jersey, anorak for the cool mornings
• Sturdy, comfortable shoes with a good grip (tennis shoes/takkies or track shoes are fine); thongs/slip slops/beach shoes
• Swimming costume
• Be suitably dressed for the boat trip from Maroantsetra to Masoala Forest Lodge. Have sun and rain protection handy and sandals and your active-wear clothing.
• Good quality sunglasses preferably polarised. Tinted fashion sunglasses are not much good in harsh light;
• Camera equipment.
• Zip-lock plastic bags to keep your camera free of dust;
• A good torch, spare batteries and bulb;
• Binoculars;

Anjajavy dancing

Toiletries

• Basic medical kit including Lomotil / Immodium, aspirin, plasters, antiseptic cream, rehydrate (Game), malaria prophylactics, etc.;
• Moisturising cream & suntan lotion;
• Anti-histamine cream;
• Insect repellent, e.g. Peaceful Sleep, Tabard and Doom;
• Feminine hygiene products;
• If you wear contact lenses we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses in case you get eye irritation from the dust; solutions and cleansers.

Madagascar hotels

Antananarivo Lac Anosy

Antananarivo

Antananarivo, the island’s capital city with a population of 2 000 000 is situated at 1 370m above sea level. Picturesque with its many hills, traditional houses scattered on the hillside and numerous rice paddies this town is full of character. Tana, as the city is often called, has unusual French and Asian inspired architecture and winding cobblestone streets and staircases that create a medieval impression. Walk around Avenue de l’Independence, the capital’s main street and enjoy the bustling vibe of the city and the many street cafes. Other attractions include the colourful daily flower market on the edge of Lake Anosy and the botanical and zoological gardens (Tsimbazaza), where you can see the egg and 3m tall skeleton of the extinct aepyornis, or elephant bird. Sadly, the Rova (Queen’s Palace) burned to the ground in 1996. The palace is currently being rebuilt and there are nice views of the city.

There is a selection of good restaurants in Antananarivo, some of which are of a high standard. Amongst the best are: Le Restaurant, La Boussole, O Poivre Vert, Kudeta and Cafe de la Gare.

Palissandre Hotel & Spa ****

Perched on the slopes of a hill, 5 minutes drive from the business centre of Tana. Stunning views over the town. The Palissandre has 46 spacious rooms, reflecting traditional Malagasy architecture with pink-coloured bricks, Matasoa stone, rosewood and marble. It offers all the facilities of a modern business and leisure hotel. 42 standard rooms and 6 family suites. All bedrooms are equipped with TV, air-conditioning, telephones, room safe, mini bar, bathroom with shower, hair-dryer and a desk. There is a small gym, a spa and a lovely garden restaurant with umbrellas and swimming pool area with recliners. English speaking reception.

Pavillon de l’Emyrne ***+

Pavillon de L’Emyrne, a charming and traditional guesthouse is situated in the city centre close to a choice of excellent restaurants. This upmarket boutique guesthouse has a choice of room types from standard rooms (3) superior rooms (8) and prestige suites (2). Each room has an enclosed patio and all rooms have tea and coffee facilities, mini bar, air-conditioning, safe, telephone, hair-dryer and television. Each room has an en suite bathrooms but no actual baths, only showers. The garden is a haven of peace and a welcome respite from the busy city.

The dining room is charming and airy with lots of windows looking out onto the garden and original art work is displayed on the walls. Breakfast is served in the dining room.

Masoala

Masoala Peninsula

Masoala has been described as the last Eden on earth…and as you glide down the Antalavia River in a dugout canoe, you can understand why. With its lush tropical rainforests leading right down to ocean’s edge and mist-covered mountains providing an ever present moody backdrop, Masoala Peninsula is one of the world’s only remaining untouched destinations and home to Madagascar’s largest national park – Parc National Masoala.

With its three marine reserves and unparalleled diversity of flora and fauna, Masoala is the only place where you can encounter one of the most beautiful lemurs in the world and two of the planet’s most rare bird species – the serpent eagle and the red owl.  And with 2435 species of plants to call their playground, the area is teeming with exotic frogs, insects, and other curious creatures. If you pay attention, you might encounter the startling fringed gecko Uroplatus fimbriatus. The largest of the known species of leaf-tailed geckos and a genus confined to Madagascar, this character is known to make barking sounds and is sometimes mistaken for a dead leaf.

Your journey will not only allow you to touch and feel the magnificence of the park, but will contribute to preserving the magic of Masoala. The eco-tourism activities of the Masoala Forest Lodge form part of an international conservation program, and provide a valuable source of sustainable income for local communities.

Maroantsetra, Relais du Masoala ***

Set in a lush coconut grove by the bay, overlooking Nosy Mangabe and with the Masoala Peninsula as a backdrop, this is an oasis of peace, warmth and charming simplicity acclaimed as an exceptional eco-tourism development. 15 spacious palm-thatched bungalows ensuite (shower & WC). The food, including picnic lunches, is excellent. Swimming pool and games. This is the gateway to the eco-tourist destination Masoala Peninsula and Nosy Mangabe.

Tampolo, Masoala Forest Lodge ***

Located in the heart of the wild Masoala Peninsula at Tampolo is a rustic bush camp. Set behind a line of hardwood trees and facing the golden beach sands are six double “African Safari-style” tents with thatched protective roofs, built on wooden decks. The verandas have hammocks for those afternoon siestas. The tents are fully netted and furnished, providing the full experience of sleeping under canvas in the wilds, without any of the discomforts associated with camping. The main communal living area where you can find books and games is made of local Malagasy wood. Bathrooms and toilet huts are now en-suite.

Meals are a blend of Swiss & Malagasy rainforest cuisine using fresh fish and local produce. Activities include walks (day and night) in the primary rainforest, guided sea kayaking, and snorkelling, whale watching and fishing. Access to the lodge is by boat from the small town of Maroantsetra. The primary rainforest of Masoala National Park, rich in wildlife, is a short walk in any direction and numerous birds, reptiles and mammals are found in the camp itself.

Specials:

• Honeymooners: valid throughout the year
• Special discounted prices apply. Special dinners on the beach are arranged and the couple stays in the most spacious and private tent.

Activities and day trips

Activities included in your package (3 and 4 night stays):

• Guided walks in the primary and coastal forest of Masoala National Park with an official guide, English and French speaking.
• Guided nocturnal walks in the surrounding coastal forest.
• Guided visit to the local village of Ambodiforaha to experience the local culture and traditional way of Malagasy life.
• Guided sea kayaking on the sheltered coastal waters, subject to weather conditions.
• Guided pirogue trip in the Tampolo River.
• Snorkelling equipment provided.
• Traditional music-dance show in the evening.

Also included for longer stays:

• Day trips to Antalavia River, on foot or by kayak and returning by boat.

Additional payable activities:

• Day trips to Antalavia River, on foot or by kayak and returning by boat.  (Minimum 2 clients). Euro 50 per person.
• Day trip to Cap Masoala by boat, including a picnic lunch and snorkelling on the deserted island of Nosy Behentona. (Minimum 2 clients). Euro 80 per person.
• Boat fishing. Euro 30 per person for up to 3 hours.
• Whale watching. Euro 30 per person for up to 3 hours.

Anjajavy

Nosy Mangabe

While it is possible to camp on Nosy Mangabe, we do not recommend it due to the basic facilities and the impact on the environment.

Sea Kayak Expeditions

Sea Kayak expeditions on the Masoala Peninsula are offered during the months of May and October to December.

Please note: Masoala Forest Lodge

The Masoala Forest Lodge accommodates a maximum of 12 clients (sharing).

• Boat transfers are generally made in the mornings only.
• Boat fishing, whale watching and excursions to other sites on the peninsula are available.
• All meals, water and soft drinks included. Alcoholic Beverages are payable.
• Guided sea kayaking, snorkelling and river excursions by traditional canoe included.
• 30 % non refundable deposit requested at the time of booking.
• Masoala Forest Lodge is closed from 1 Feb to 31 Mar.
• Please read our information pages “Masoala what you need to know”.

Anjajavy Crique en Crique_walk

Hotel Anjajavy – Relais & Chateaux: ****

Situated 120 km north of Mahajanga is the luxury Anjajavy Hotel. It is built on a peninsula in a large bay and surrounded by a 450 hectare reserve of dry deciduous woodland – perfect for nature lovers!  There is no road to Anjajavy. Anjajavy lies in the heart of the Menabe Sakalava territory. There are signposted paths through the bush and forest.

Anjajavy can be accessed by plane from Antananarivo or Nosy Be. An extraordinary change of scenery is guaranteed as soon as you take off! After a flight of low altitude vistas of the scenery, you will land on a private runway on the Anjajavy peninsula.

A large swimming pool faces the ocean. The beach in front of your villa is reserved for sunbathing and swimming. A second beach with a marina offers the following water sports: Sailing boats, windsurfing, canoes, snorkelling, aqua gym, ski boarding, fishing boat excursions (to see the Morombe Bay, la Garconniere des Dieux…).

A small oasis of (Caillebotis sp) Palissandre (trees) offering welcome shade. This garden known as the oasis attracts a variety of birds and lemurs is a relaxing place for afternoon tea served here every afternoon at 17:00.

The forest surrounding Anjajavy is home to the daytime lemurs, Coquerel’s Sifaka and Brown Lemur which are easy to see. Nocturnal lemurs here include Mouse Lemurs, Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur and Milne-edwards Sportive-lemur. Many species of bird occur here including Madagascar Buzzard, Grey-headed Lovebird, Tototoroka Scops-0wl, Sickle-billed and White-headed vangas, and Red-capped Coua. Madagascar Flying Fox are common in the nearby mangroves. Botanically this is a very interesting area with amazing groves of Baobab (Adansonia madagascariensis), Pachypodium, Euphorbia, Combretum and Albizia species, three species of palm and magnificent examples of Cycas thouarsii and many, many others.

The Bungalows

All 24 villas are built of Palissandre wood. Each villa boasts a spacious sea facing terrace with your hammock, a lounge, a breakfast area and a bedroom with a queen size bed with mosquito netting. A narrow set of stairs take one to aloft room with twin beds (ideal for children). The bathroom has a large bathtub, overhead shower and a separate toilet. Individual air-conditioning systems ensure your room always remains cool. Other amenities are: tea/coffee making facilities and a mini fridge (stocked with bottled water and other drinks on request).

Anjajavy offers a fine dining experience. Meals are French-inspired and highly dependent on seasonal availability. Malagasy dishes are on offer for those who wish to experience the local specialities. Breakfast offers everything from fresh seasonal fruit, croissants and yoghurts to a full English Breakfast. The lunch menu offers 3 to 5 choices per course. Meals are usually plated and the menu changes every 2 to 3 days. Dinner is a small fine dining 3-course meal with 2 to 3 choices per course. Beach barbeques are also arranged. Dinners in “the Oasis”, on the beach or on the villa terrace can be arranged.

Anjajavy

Activities

An excursion by boat to Morombe Bay is truly worthwhile as this is the best area in Madagascar to observe the rare and endangered Madagascar Fish-eagle.

Other activities include volleyball, mountain biking, tennis-table, pool, boulle, badminton, massages and nature walks. Twice daily walks along well laid out paths through the forests and near to the beaches with a local guide; the morning walk leaves at 09:30 and afternoon walk leaves at 16:30; tea is served in the oasis every day at 17:00.

Fishing – World class all year although July and August are not the best for fishing because of the wind; however June is the beginning of the Sailfish season and August is the beginning of the Marlin season. Other fish include Yellow-fin Tuna, Wahoo, King Mackerel, Dog-tooth Tuna and other big pelagic fish.

Free activities

Catamaran, windsurfing, snorkelling, canoe in the sea and mangroves, swimming pool, billiards, volley ball, excursions and walks into the forests.

Anjajavy offers a wide variety of walks which guests can either do unguided with a map or with one of the hotel guides. Picnics in the reserve can be arranged. Regular night walks are organised to discover Anjajavy’s remarkable nocturnal inhabitants. Anjajavy is also involved with the local community and guests are encouraged to visit the local villages.

Payable activities

Fishing

• Sport fishing    per hour per boat        € 85
• Popper fishing     per hour per boat        € 65

Boating

• Sunset cruise in the mangroves with aperitif    € 25/person
• Morombe Bay                    € 50/person
• Water ski per ½ hour                € 20

Bicycle

• Package for the stay                € 10/person

Massages

• Relaxing, slimming or dynamic 30 minutes    € 20
• Relaxing, slimming or dynamic 60 minutes    € 30

Please note

• Fishing excursions cannot be guaranteed unless booked in advance. Fly fishermen have to advise if they need equipment.
• Maximum weight of baggage 20kg.
• Satellite telephone and internet connection available on request from reception. Satellite television available in the lounge.
• Payment methods accepted at the hotel: Visa Card, traveller’s cheques and cash.
• A 20% non-refundable deposit is requested at time of booking.
• Minimum stay is 7 nights during peak season 19 Dec -4 Jan.
• Special conditions apply for groups (more than 9 clients).
• Minimum stay throughout the year is 3 nights.

Flight times

• 90 minutes from Antananarivo to Anjajavy
• 75 minutes from Nosy Be to Anjajavy
• Guests are met at the Anjajavy landing strip and are transferred in an open 4×4 to the hotel (~15 minute drive).

Access to Anjajavy is by scheduled air charter (usually a Cessna Caravan)
Flight times (subject to change) Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

* Anjajavy local time (= Madagascar time + 1 h)

Tuesdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Thursdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Anjajavy – Nosy Be        on request
Nosy Be – Anjajavy        on request

Saturdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Private charter flights available on request (extra cost) for convenient daily connections.

Anjajavy

Specials

• Honeymoon special: 5 Jan – 31 Oct 2010
• Minimum stay is 5 nights. 50% discount on accommodation with full board for the bride. Extras offered: a massage for two, a romantic dinner and sunset cruise.
• Free nights: 1 May – 12 Jul 2010
• Pay for 6 nights and stay for 7 or pay for 10 nights and stay for 12.
• Free nights: 13 Jul – 31 Oct 2010
• Pay for 10 nights and stay for 11.
• Early bird offer: Book a 7 night stay at Anjajavy 6 or more months in advance and receive € 150 resort credit per villa redeemable only against services proved by Anjajavy Hotel.

Madagascar wildlife – species list

Separated from the African mainland for 160 million years and from India for 90 million years, its wildlife has evolved independently. Of all its animals, lemurs have been studied the most intensively and have received much attention from the conservation community and tourists. Currently there are about 71 species (new ones are being identified frequently).

Masoala walk

Masoala National Park

Mammals:

• Red ruffed lemur
• White fronted brown lemur
• Eastern woolly lemur
• Eastern fork-marked lemur
• Aye-aye lemur
• Mouse lemur
• Malagasy striped civet
• Falanouc
• Easter ring-tailed mongoose
• Lowland red forest rat
• Greater hedgehog tenrec
• Lowland streaked tenrec

Birds:

Much sought after but very difficult to see, are the

• Madagascar serpent eagle
• Madagascar red owl
• Benier’s vanga.

Regularly seen are the

• Helmet vanga
• Nuthatch vanga
• Red-breasted coua
• Scaly ground-roller
• Short-legged ground roller
• Madagascar wood rail
• Velvet asity

Reptiles and frogs:

• Panther chameleon
• Boettger’s chameleon
• Stump-tailed chameleon
• Leaf-tailed gecko
• Day gecko
• Tomato frog
• Green-backed mantilla frog

Anjajavy

Anjajavy

Mammals:

• Coquerel’s Sifaka
• Common brown lemur
• Mouse lemur
• Sportive lemur
• Madagascar flying fox
• Greater hedgehog tenrec
• Fosa

Birds:

Many endemics are easy to see. Coastal excursions provide excellent opportunities for sighting the

• Madagascar fish eagle
• Madagascar sacred ibis (very rare)

Anjajavy

Other species include:

• Madagascar crested ibis
• Greater vasa parrot
• Grey-headed lovebird
• Red-capped coua
• Coquerel’s coua
• Crested coua
• Madagascar green pigeon
• Sickle-billed vanga
• Madagascar pygmy kingfisher

Reptiles:

• Ostalet’s chameleon
• Collared iguanid
• Fish-scaled gecko
• Madagascar giant day gecko
• Madagascar ground boa
• Madagascar hognose snake

Madagascar: bone turning ceremony

Just south of the capital is the colourful little town of Antsirabe, where the ruling Merina tribe also live. Patric Niaina owns an intricately painted rickshaw there, and ferries locals around in his hand-drawn taxi. But, today he’s taken the day off work and donned his smartest outfit for a trip into the hills just outside of town. It’s a big day for him. His family is holding an auspicious bone-turning ceremony to honour their ancestors, and Patric is not missing it for anything.

With Patric navigating, we wind along well worn sand roads, through the mountains but see absolutely no sign of a ceremony. Then as we round a corner, there is a heaving gathering of people on the hillside. The national flag is being held high and people are milling around energetically. “That’s the famadihana,” says Patric, “it has already started.”

It’s a hot, dusty afternoon, and we arrive to a cacophony of music, singing and raucous revelry. Rice and rum are everywhere, being served from little stalls under rainbow umbrellas. We are quickly enfolded in dust and fresh rum fumes, and are definitely the only sober guests there. But, in a bid to change that, we are quickly handed a bottle of rum for an obligatory swig. It tastes like swallowing razor blades, but this is the traditional brew of Madagascar, and there is no way around it today.

Madagascar: bone turning ritual

The tomb has already been opened and the crowd mills around the entrance, some weeping, others laughing, some seemingly indifferent to the magnitude of the occasion. A family will save for five to 10 years to be able to afford such a ceremony, because it entails mountains of rice and plenty of rum, as well as new shrouds, gifts and the prized zebu cattle that are slaughtered as part of the ritual.

First one skeletal mummy is carried out of the tomb, rolled in a hand-woven grass mat and held high above the surrounding crowd. Then another and another emerges, until five family members are lying side by side on the grass – their heads facing east. Some of the living family draw near to tell the latest news and happenings in the village, others ask for advice, and still others stand in silence and simply watch the proceedings.

Not wanting to impose, we keep moving back in the crowd, but are constantly yanked forwards to be a part of the ceremony and to see exactly what is going on. It’s difficult to hear what is being said, amidst all the singing and chanting, laughing and crying – and liberal swigging of rum from bottles being passed through the crowd. But we respectfully oblige and stand with the family.

Then the mats are gently unrolled by chosen family members, and each mummy is wrapped in a new white shroud to cover the old one. All the time, the family continues talking to their dead ancestors as if they were perfectly alive and part of the party. It is an almost surreal experience for western eyes, but one we will never forget. The Malagasy reverence and respect for their ancestors is deep and real.

Madagascar: wrapping mummies

Patric stands with us, rum in hand and watches as intently as we do. “This is a big day for the family,” he says sipping his neat rum, “and it is very special that you are here. It is a blessing and good luck for us.” Then, an elder places a small gift on the chest of each mummy and inscribes their name on the shroud – in felt tip marker pen. A new straw hat and a photograph of each ancestor are also placed on their chests. In between proceedings, a childless woman tears a tiny piece of shroud to place under her pillow in the hope of bearing children, and another lovingly strokes the skeletal remains of her grandmother.

Then after more rum, and with plenty of dancing and singing, the crowd gives the ancestors a jovial send off – back into the cool tomb. It will be a good few years before the family will host another bone turning ceremony, but they start saving for it immediately.

While the Merina and Betsileo tribes are the only ones to practice bone-turning ceremonies in Madagascar, each of the 18 tribes on the island have rituals to honour the dead. Because, for the Malagasy, death is the most important part of life and the dead have far more power than the living.

With the mummies all safely back in the family tomb, celebrations start winding down. It’s been three days of full throttle revelry for the crowd, and they are growing weary. Rum fumes still permeate the air, as the last guests settle down to enjoy bowls of rice. Patric has settled in with his family and we afford him privacy and head back to Antsirabe. But first, we respectfully thank him for allowing us to attend this personal ritual, and hand him a bottle of rum as a traditional gift. “Thank you,” he says, “the honour was all mine.” And with a rum-soaked smile, he screws off the cap and takes a long swig.

Dancing Sifakas – Berenty, Madagascar

Madagascar: Dancing Verreaux

Seeing these quirky creatures dance between the trees will give you a full belly laugh, or possibly stun you into bemused silence. Sifakas dancing are truly the most bizarre site I have ever seen; just thinking of it makes me laugh.

Because sifakas’ feet are designed for grasping trees, they can’t walk on flat ground. But sometimes the trees they feed in are too far apart for them to jump, which is their usual practice – so they have to dance across the flat ground between them. It’s a kind of sifaka tango.

These Verreaux’s Sifakas have velvety cream coats and jet black faces with a permanently bemused look on them. Their beady brown eyes always look startled and alert, so just looking at their quizzical faces raises a laugh. Then when they side step, pirouette and continue on their dance, well, it’s just side splitting. They spend as little time as possible on the ground, so the dance is fast, followed by a quick jump onto a tree branch where they carry on feeding – as if nothing ever happened.

Berenty in the south of Madagascar is the easiest place to see the dance. Of course they don’t dance on cue, so you may need to be patient and wait a while. But it will be absolutely worth it.

The Annual Wildebeest Migration – Serengeti, Tanzania

Tanzania: Serengeti Migration

The photographs can never tell the story, and while film footage gives a better idea of the scale of the migration, there are not really words to explain being surrounded by millions of moaning wildebeest mingling with zebra.

It’s like looking at an ant colony on a macro scale. As far as you can see, horizon to horizon, there is nothing but wildebeest. They stand around grunting for hours on end, chase each other playfully and generally are just being wildebeest. Then, when the chief zebra advises the head wildebeest it’s time to move, they all start trotting – pied piper style.

I was in a Land Rover in the middle of the herd, and the sound of a few million hooves on sand is like deafening thunder rolling past. The entire herd seems to think with a single mind, called by the literal green grass on the other side of the Mara River in Kenya.

They run and rest all the way from Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing first the Grumeti then the Mara rivers. They leap in faith into the rivers, and by the end of the migration all the crocodiles have full bellies. Some of these crocodiles only eat once a year during the migration, yet they are still the biggest Nile crocodiles in all of Africa.

For me, the migration was overwhelming, breathtaking and a clear demonstration of the triumph of animal instinct and natural selection. During June and July every year, the wildebeest start heading north to Kenya, though the exact dates of departure depend entirely on the chief wildebeest and his zebra advisor.

Endangered Mountain Gorillas – Rwanda

Rwanda: Endangered Mountain Gorilla

Staring into the chocolate brown eyes of a mountain gorilla is like looking into your own soul. There’s a mutual recognition that we are close cousins indeed, maybe too close since mountain gorillas easily contract human diseases. This is why nobody who is ill with a cold or any other condition may trek for gorillas, and why a healthy seven metre distance must be maintained at all times from the gorilla group. If the gorillas move closer, you move back. No food may be eaten while with the gorillas either.

There’s just an hour to spend with them, that’s what’s allowed, but it is an intense hour. I found myself pondering the origin of our species and how all life is really interlinked. How we could be so similar yet so different, and how we presume humans are so superior. I felt I needed to apologise to the gorillas for human behaviour.

I saw the Sabinyo group, but there are a handful of groups habituated to humans. Then there are additional study groups that only researchers from the Karisoke Research Institute have access to. Still, every time a gorilla is born, it’s named and celebrated. And every time one is lost to the bush meat or exotic pet trade, there is despair because there are so few. Just about 250 remain on earth. And since mountain gorillas don’t survive in captivity, supporting their conservation by seeing them in the wild is their only real hope.

Africa’s only Wolf – Ethiopia

They’re elusive and beautiful and live in tiny pockets across Ethiopia, so seeing Africa’s only true wolf gliding across a mountain top is spectacular. Uniquely, Ethiopian wolves do not require an early morning wake-up call to see them. They only get going when the sun is up and the high altitude plateau they live on warms up a bit. As it gets warmer the giant mole rats come out, and so do the wolves – to catch one for breakfast.

Ethiopia: Ethiopian Wolf

In their habitat in the Bale Mountains National Park, the air is raspingly thin, so I was pleased that no physical effort was needed to see them. I drove up onto the 4 000m plateau in a Landcruiser, much like a game drive. After just a half hour of driving I spotted my first lone wolf, its burnt orange coat swiftly sailing across the scubby grey bushes. Then a pounce and he had his first mole rat, which he carried off to enjoy in peace.

It’s a 400km, full day, uber-bumpy drive to get from Addis Ababa to Goba near the base of the Sanetti Plateau, for a wolf visit the following morning. Then it’s a full day’s drive back again. But seeing these highly endangered creatures was well worth the effort. Just to see a wolf in Africa is a unique experience, and a slightly bizarre I thought.

Swimming with Dolphins – Zanzibar

Somehow swimming with dolphins perfectly complements the romance of Zanzibar. Swimming with sharks there just wouldn’t hold the same appeal.

Zanzibar: Kizimkazi dolphins swimming

I went out from Kizimkazi on the east coast, on a boat skippered by a Rastafarian. Boats are basic, possibly with a sunshade, but don’t expect cocktails or canapés on board. The skipper cruised around the dolphin territory until he spotted one, then I baled overboard with mask and snorkel issued, and swam. A helping hand will pull you back onto the boat again.

Of course, it’s entirely the choice of the dolphins if they want to hang around and play. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are just passing through. But I now know why dolphin therapy is successful and can even assist in curing illness. What tranquil, exquisite animals they are, with personalities of their own and a seemingly deep understanding of the human condition. Even if you just have two minutes in the water with them as they pass by, it’s an experience I will never forget.

First impressions

Girl in Nosy Be

Madagascar is completely impossible to box and label. There are so many cultural variations, diverse landscapes, bizarre creatures and customs, it’s a world apart. The warm-hearted friendliness of thepeople struck me immediately on arrival – and lasted for the entire trip. In a place of extreme poverty, they are living proof that money doesn’t equate to happiness. I was constantly amazed at their open hearts and minds and the rich soulfulness of the place, awash in earth colours and rough built French-style homes of mud. And the coast is deliciously tropical with the scent of vanilla on the wind.

Mad culture

Black Lemur

In some areas on the mainland its taboo to hand an egg directly to another person, for girls to wash male underwear or to have funerals on certain days. Other tribes perform ancient bone-turning ceremonies, and one tribe creates erotic funery art to adorn their graves.

On Nosy Be there are sacred lakes where crocodiles live. I fed bananas to black lemurs on nearby Nosy Komba, because here they are revered and protected by locals. And the hand embroidered cutwork curtains I bought there still hang in my bedroom, because they make me smile and remember Nosy Be. I think Madagascar is a place that evokes immediate reaction – you intensely love it or hate it, but it’s impossible to be indifferent. Of all the places I have ever been, Madagascar has crept the deepest under my skin. Every time I visit, I’m already scheming and dreaming how I can return there.

Main attractions

Tsara Komba beach

Mount Passot at 300m is  the highest point on Nosy Be and is surrounded by eight deep-blue crater lakes, with names like Amparihimirahavavy and Antsahamanavaka. My trusty taxi driver Eddie Tsiadiso told me two of these lakes are sacred, and the spirits of the Sakalava and Antakara princes – local tribes in the area – live there. It is also fady or taboo for locals to fish in the sacred lakes, because crocodiles live there – though I never saw any myself. Tourists can’t walk the shores of the sacred lakes either, and they need to be dressed appropriately to visit the non-sacred ones: no smoking, hats, trousers, or any garment pulled over the feet can be worn. So I’m glad I wore a dress for the visit. Driving across Nosy Be reminded me of a primeval Eden, with bouganvilla, vanilla and ylang ylang flanking the road. From the main port Hell-ville, I caught a slow boat ride to Nosy Komba, or Lemur Island. An ancient chief proclaimed the black lemurs there sacred, so they are still protected and fed by locals. They’re so tame, I had them sitting on my shoulders in anticipation of being fed. Lokobe Reserve also protects the black lemur, along with boa constrictors and plenty of chameleons and birds.

Where to stay

There are lots of hotel options on Nosy Be, which means Big Island. Some are more romantic or family orientated than others, so it depends entirely on your needs. I chose Nosy Be Hotel and Amarina Beach to experience different aspects and areas of the island. Getting to Nosy Be, just north west of the mainland, is also easy. Air Madagascar flies there daily and there are even some direct flights from Europe – so it’s not as remote as it feels.

Dining out

Madagascar

Nosy Be map

All the hotels have restaurants that serve a combination menu of western and local dishes. This is the safe option. I tried a few local spots, but often what arrived in front of me was not what I anticipated. Probably because I couldn’t read the menu too accurately. Much is written in Malagasy, which is not quite French and further from English.

In a nutshell

Madagascar will stretch your mind and touch your soul, as it did mine. It’s a place of unspeakable beauty and quirkiness, so it’s important to go with an open mind and a sense of humour. It’s a place that changed me forever, and I love the people and places more each time I visit.

Personal highlight

Feeding the monkey-cat-like lemurs was wow, as was seeing the authentic way locals live. Madagascar is a lesson in living in the now.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Madagascar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/holiday.html

Nosy Be hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/beach-holidays-nosy-be.html

Nosy Be excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1296/madagascar-n.html

2. Reunion – Natural Theatre

First Impressions

St Denis Réunion Island

How could a tiny island speck in the middle of the Indian Ocean be so impossibly First World? Arriving in Reunion’s capital – St Denis – was like expecting pancakes and being served crème brule. I suspect the island may have drifted off course from the French Riviera; sparkling white, French flair buildings cling to the volcanic mountainside, and exotic tropical gardens weaving in between. Somehow I anticipated laid-back island-style and no cellphone signal, shabby chic perhaps, but definitely not spiffy French and smooth tar roads.

For me, Reunion’s quirkiest culture definitely lives in the villages and rugged interior. It’s a place of such stark contrasts and paradoxes, I have to keep pinching myself. The people are split into French and Creole, and here that translates into Catholic and Voodoo. Yes, Voodoo is alive and well in Reunion and the plentiful red roadside shrines are its beacons. Most are adorned with madonnas, candles and incense, although some madonnas acquired curses along the way and had their heads snapped off to show it. I keep my nose clean and focus on natural attractions instead. The Black Madonna who blesses children and the Madonna with Parasole who protects a town from lava flows are really interesting stories though, and not linked too closely to Voodoo.

Main Attractions

Air Austral flies direct to Reunion, so it’s easy to get there. I hired a car and drove the island, keeping to the right and sometimes getting confused in traffic circles. It’s generally easy driving, although next time I’ll choose an automatic. A gleaming asphalt road runs all the way round the island hugging the coastline. Because Reunion is so volcanic, this is the flattest area to build the road. And it took a while for me to realize that this is also the reason the graveyards all have sea views. Some infamous pirates like Le Buse still rest here peacefully. From the air I imagine Reunion looks like a giant chocolate muffin with three holes poked in it. These three volcanic ‘cirques’ are all totally different but equally bizarre. Cirque Mafate still lives in the Middle Ages and is only accessible on foot. Many of the inhabitants, I believe, have never seen cars, certainly never televisions or cellphones. It’s completely lost in time, and I found it refreshing to know there are still places like this in 2009. Cirque Cilaos is the one trekkers frequent. I needed a stiff vanilla rum after negotiating the 100 hairpin bends to get there. But the surrounding rocks look like witches hats and tangled plants hang from them, making the trip enchanting. Cirque Salazie was my personal favourite. Locals told me there are 100 waterfalls in the cirque, but you can’t see them all simultaneously. What I know personally is that one waterfall splashes directly onto the main road into Salazie, so you get a carwash en route. Definitely the most thrilling site must be Piton de la Fournaise in the south east, when you can get close; this moody volcano blew her top the day I arrived in Reunion, so the whole area was shrouded in smoke and ash, cordoned off until she calmed down.

The island is a haven for vulcanologists and there is even a Volcano Museum to put you properly in the picture.

Where to stay

Volcano1 Réunion Island

The range and diversity of accommodation across the island ensures there’s something for everyone. I personally enjoy the middle of the road little beach villas, but staying in a period French B&B in a room surrounded by mirrors was quite quirky too. Some of the bottom of the pile places I found a little basic, but in some remote areas there’s not much choice. Because Reunion is ideal for a road trip, you seldom sleep in a place for more than a night anyway – unless you choose the relaxed beach holiday option.

Dining Out

Reunion map

Ah, Creole food has got to be the finest. Hot and flavoursome. The traditional curry, or cari to locals, is meat or chicken in a tomato sauce infused with garlic, ginger, chilli and thyme. It cleared my sinuses and gave me an endorphin rush for free. French food is plentiful too, I always choose the most traditional food if I can. Oh, and all meals should be washed down with local rum. It comes in so many flavours. In a Nutshell How I wish mainland Africa would take a feather from Reunion. It’s the place of the starkest contrasts and cultures, beliefs and landscapes, but it works like a smooth running machine because everyone minds their own business. If you are looking for the truly extreme and unusual, you’ll find it here. Reunion is for the whole family and the energetic and adventure seekers. Paragliding, surfing, abseiling, trekking, scuba diving – there’re all there.

Personal Highlight

Walking on a pitch black volcanic beach really was surreal for me. Black sand, black rocks and a turquoise Indian Ocean washing over it. That was my earthly Apocolyptic moment. And seeing the Miracle Church in Piton St Rose. The trusty priest stood at the church doors facing a fiery lava flow. When it reached the church steps, the lava split, went round the sides of the church and continued on to the sea. The entire town was incinerated but the church remained untouched, and the solid rock that still encircles the church is clear evidence of the event.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Reunion:

Reunion http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/holidays.html

Reunion self-drive packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/self-drive-packages.html

Reunion beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/beach-holidays.html

Reunion hiking http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/hiking-holidays.html

3. Ethiopia, Lake Tana – the Blue Nile beginning

First impressions

A thread of antiquity runs through the whole of Ethiopia. Wherever you go there is a mix of organic life and very ancient ways of living and being. I never saw gloss or polish, or any hint of veneer – and that is so refreshing. What you see is what you get. The people are elegant and regal, a little stoic but always willing to tell you about their unusual land. I like that, nobody is in your face and there’s no pretence. I believe the whole country should really be a world heritage site for all the treasures it has, many of which remain unspoken and hidden from public eyes. The monastery islands in Lake Tana are just one example.

Ethi culture

deeply rooted christianity

Virtually the whole nation of 74 million practices Orthodox Christianity as their religion. To me as an outsider it seemed a puzzling mix of all the great world religions brewed together and garnished with Ethiopian flair. There are patron saints and Egyptian martyrs, Christian and Jewish figures and a hint of Buddism in the way the people live. What I found remarkable, is that religion is actually lived every day, churches are permanently open and frequented. Religion permeates every aspect of life – and everywhere you go. The other religion in Ethiopia is coffee. Its the birthplace of the brew and elaborate ceremonies are performed when its served. Burning incense and eating popcorn are part of proceedings. I sat quietly and waited to be served, not wanting to fiddle with decorum. If you like truly unusual places, this is it. Ethiopia follows a 12 hour clock, they have 70 languages, their own Amharic alphabet that looks like dancing figures, new year is in September, and their year is 13 months long. So right now it’s 2001 there.

Main attractions

The cool river

Lalibela is well known for its dozens of rock hewn churches, carved from solid rock below ground level. I thought this was it when it comes to unusual churches, but when I arrived in Baha Dar there was lots more to discover. I took a boat trip across the milky turquoise waters of Lake Tana, because I simply wanted to ride across the source of the Blue Nile. Then, 45 minutes later, the skipper of Fanta pulled up on a tiny lake island and said I could ‘see the church if I want’. Right in the middle of this tiny island in the middle of this vast lake was a perfectly round church, elaborately adorned with traditional painting. In the very middle behind red velvet drapes was the holy of holies. ‘No you can’t look inside,’ I was told by the priest, after I removed my shoes. The priest dressed in bright yellow was awaiting his pilgrims. Cross in hand he waited to bless them, so I asked for a blessing too and was tapped lightly on the head. Other islands in Lake Tana house monasteries that only permit male or only female visitors, depending on the monastery’s inclination. And there are many more islands with quaint and quirky churches too. The locals all know where to find them.

Where to stay

Ethiopian Airlines flies between Johannesburg and Addis Ababa daily, and then to main towns in Ethiopia – Baha Dar included. Accommodation outside the capital is all quite basic and mostly clean. You’ll easily find a bed and a bathroom, though there isn’t always hot water – and sometimes there is no water at all. But the reception desk will tell you if there are ‘waterless hours’. I always  asked, just to be sure.

Dining out

honesty of the people

Hotels serve almost exclusively what they consider Western food to be – everything is deep fried. I asked for a plain banana, and it was also proudly served ‘deep fried’. The waiter frowned in disbelief when I asked for a replacement – with the skin on. Local food takes an open mind to enjoy. Injira (a grey, tef based pancake that resembles a facecloth) is usually served with an assortment of ‘blow your head off’ hot sauces, sometimes also with chopped cabbage and chips. In smarter eateries, finely chopped meat in fiery sauce may also accompany the injira. Breakfast omelettes also come with a good dose of chilli, unless you request them plain. I learnt quickly that everything should be ordered ‘plain’, even though I love hot food. Ethiopian ‘hot’ is something quite special.

In a nutshell

Ethiopia map

The honesty and realness of the place grabbed me, and the way people live just as their ancestors did. Frequenting the same churches, riding in Egyptian style papyrus boats and against a backdrop of extreme hardship and poverty. Ethiopia taught me a lesson in family values and the importance of community, because that counts more than possessions and grandeur.

Personal highlight

I thoroughly appreciated the gentle pace of life and the proud grittiness of the people. It ticked me that tourist boats on Lake Tana have a dedicated skipper and a busy baler, who ensures the water stays mostly in the lake.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Ethiopia:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/holiday.html

Historical Packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/historical-and-cultural-holidays.html

Ethiopia hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/hotels.html

4. Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago- Islands in the stream

First impressions

Paradise

This is where watercolours and tales of Robinson Crusoe were born. From the plane window, swirls of turquoise lay below me with tiny verdant islands sprinkled into the middle distance. The Quirimbas look like emeralds embedded on aquamarine in an opulent necklace. When I landed on Medjumbe, the ‘welcome to paradise’ from staff wasn’t tongue in cheek either – I was actually thinking ‘paradise found’. This island, off the coast of Mozambique near the border with Tanzania, is the quintessential tropical paradise, and there are quite a few more in the archipelago: Matemo and Ibo for starters. But wherever you go in the Quirimbas, time stands still so watches and even calendars are redundant. Days are governed by the tides, when you can fish and dive and swim. I could certainly live like this.

Moz culture

Ibo Island Lodge evening dinner

The people of Mozambique are an evocative mix with roots in Portugal and Africa, the best of both. It’s mirrored in the spectacular seafood and caipirinha cocktails, and chill and cashews are always close at hand. For me, this is the ultimate menu. And being able to dip in the ocean whenever you please made me feel really alive. I felt invigorated and energized and omnipotent with natural rhythm ruling the days.

Main attractions

The old lighthouse on Medjumbe adds atmosphere to the splendour that surrounds you, and having the whole island as your private playground made me feel like child again – footloose and free. Matemo’s working village near the lodge gave me powerful insights into local life in Mozambique, and I brought home a piece of traditional Maluane indigo cloth to remember that feeling of absolute freedom. My trip to Ibo transported me to a distant age of Portuguese colonialism and I could easily imagine the opulent life once lived there. Almost every male and landmark here is named João, for the island’s patron saint, and I bought a piece of filigree jewelry to remember the ancient ways of Ibo. Traditional silversmiths in the old fort melt down old coins and fashion intricate lacy pieces from the metal, all by hand. I think patience lives here too. All these islands also offer boating and fishing trips and scuba diving on pristine coral reefs amidst rainbows of fish. There’s windsurfing and kayaking and anything else you can imagine doing in or on the sea. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you love sun, sand and sea.

Where to stay

Ibo Island Lodge lazy afternoon

Ibo Island Lodge is on the ocean’s edge and is a converted manor house with swinging couches on the verandah and four poster beds in the rooms. I loved the place’s simplicity and unexpected splashes of opulence. They also serve excellent crab dinners. On Matemo there is only one lodge also overlooking the sea – and it welcomes the whole family. Individual palm thatched suites are tucked between beach palm trees, and inside is decadent East African décor. Matemo has a touch of Arabia, reflecting the owner’s roots. Medjumbe is a private island catering for couples, so there’s just the one intimate lodge with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. I spent hours in my private pool with just sea sand between me and the ocean. In the evenings I lazed in my hammock and watched the light change to dark and stars. It was like being suspended in time and space. The Quirimbas are quite remote, but getting there is easy on LAM and Airlink. There are regular flights from Johannesburg to Pemba and then CFA charter flights onto the islands.

Dining out

On the Quirimbas you dine in. Each lodge has its own restaurant serving a range of seafood and other fresh fare. I always choose seafood, so by the time I left crayfish, crab, prawns, calamari and all the local fish had been tasted and ticked. It is truly divine dining.

In a nutshell

Mozambique map

If you want to forget the world exists, that trouble and chaos are possible and traffic jams ruin your days, the Quirimbas will make this all a distant memory. I imagine these postcard perfect islands gently wash out mind and soul for all who visit them. They did for me, and I left inspired and ready to take on the world.

Personal highlight

Wafting along in a traditional dhow with local fishermen, the white sail flapping overhead and the rough carved boat cutting through the warm water, that was my moment of heaven on earth. I could breathe, breathe, breathe and I could feel fresh energy filtering through me.

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Quirimbas: Ibo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Matemo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Medjumbe http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique.html

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5. Zanzibar – Dusted with Spice

First impressions

I fastened my seatbelt to land in Zanzibar, prepared to be disappointed. From the air, rusty red tin roofs wedged between palm trees welcomed me, and I could only imagine that a shanty town lay beneath. But not. Zanzibar, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, is intoxicating. Heady, hot and humid, here it translates to sultry and balmy. Sprinkled with the spices of India and the vibrancy of Arabia.

Zanzi culture

Stone Town Alley

The alleyways of Stonetown, I imagine, are just the same as they were a century ago. They’ve worn smooth from a million feet and tiny hole in the wall shops sell all the things tourists and locals lust for. Spices and exotic oils, the intricate geometric wood carvings Zanzibar is known for, and colourful patterned fabrics or khangas – always in two pieces: one for the waist and the other to cover the head in the Muslim way. I had no idea the sweet faced Swahili people had adopted the ways of Allah so closely. Zanzibar used to have the ring of Timbuktu, way off the beaten track. But today it’s well visited by travellers like me, who enjoy places that assault your senses with smells and tastes and sights that echo a melting pot of origins. I think that every nation who ever built a boat has in some way left a footprint on this heady little island. You can taste it in the food and see it in the architecture.

Main attractions

Matemwe bungalow

Nowadays Zanzibar is easy to get to, with a few direct flight options from South Africa – including 1Time. And it’s nice and compact, so you can drive across the island in an hour, and from top to bottom in just a little longer. But the roads are not smooth highways. I wedged into a taxi – between a smooth facedSwahil woman in all black and a spacey Rastafarian – to go swimming with dolphins on the east coast. There are plenty of snorkeling and diving places too. On the way back, red colobus monkeys peeped from their treetops as the minibus

crossed the Jozani Forest. On Prison Island I fed wild spinach to giant hundred year old Aldabra tortoises and lay on the deserted beach in the sun. Best of all was sailing on a traditional wooden dhow with sackcloth sails to get there. The skipper’s name was Captain Morgan.

Where to stay

Right on the beachfront of Stonetown, is the best place to stay because it’s perfectly central and so easy to wander the labyrinth of alleyways of the surrounding old quarter. Getting lost and found in the tangle of winding streets is the real charm of the place but I soon learnt my way around. Feeling safe encourages leisurely wandering, and a willing soul will always guide you back if you need it.

Dining out

Zanzibar map

In the evenings, the Foradhani market comes alive and I walked through a mesh of  mopeds and bicycles to buy fresh fish and octopus kebabs for supper – cooked over open coals with the Indian Ocean

as backdrop. All the locals dine there at night, walking, eating and chatting as they go. For desert I chewed sugar cane with the locals. I can still taste it in my mind.

In a nutshell

I imagine Zanzibar must be the African Jamaica – relaxed and laid back with reggae wafting on the wind. Virtually everyone you pass greets you with “Jambo, habari?” or “Hello, how are you?” No answer is required, just a smile. This is without doubt the friendliest place I’ve ever been; the warm heart of Africa. How I hope it never changes.

Personal highlight

Ambling the tangle of alleyways in Stonetown and chatting to the locals reminded me what it means to live authentically and in natural rhythm. I realized also that you can’t truly get lost here, because all roads eventually lead home.

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