Archive for the ‘Madagascar’ Category

Pirates in Madagascar

Friday, July 31st, 2009
Edward Teach aka Blackbeard

Edward Teach aka Blackbeard

Are you interested in pirates? The newly opened pirate museum in Antananarivo (Tana) is a real treasure trove.

Pirates discovered Madagascar 300 years ago and the island quickly became a favourite hideaway for notorious characters such as Blackbeard, William Kidd as well as a host of lesser known female pirates.  Now in memory of this nefarious bunch of people a pirate museum has opened in Antananarivo detailing the lives and tales of the pirates who crisscrossed the Indian Ocean between mainland Africa and Madagascar and as far away as the Caribbean. Find out about the mysterious pirate republic of Libertalia on Ile Sainte Marie.

Opening times
Mon to Fri         08:00 – 17:00
Sat & Sun         on request only

The museum is situated in the centre of town, 200 m from the main train station.

Combine your vacation with a shopping trip in Tana and then spend the rest of your trip on Ile Sainte Marie at Baboo Village **, Boraha Village *** or Princesse Bora Lodge & Spa ****.

Pirates in Madagascar

Pirates in Madagascar

Ile Sainte Marie (Nosy Boraha), a 57 km-long island off Madagascar’s east coast, is an authentic tropical island with lush vegetation interspersed with many small villages. This island is beautiful, offering the ultimate escape from civilisation. The hotels along its coast range from basic to classy establishments with all necessary modern facilities. The lush surroundings bring to mind images of an enormous tropical garden. It’s ideal for honeymoon couples or anybody with a romantic flair. Ile Sainte Marie boasts numerous white sandy beaches and secluded coves, fringed with coconut palms. The coral reefs offshore offer excellent snorkelling and scuba diving. In August and September, hump-backed and other types of whales migrate here and are a huge attraction. The roads beckon mountain bikers and most hotels hire bicycles and snorkelling gear.

Pirates in Madagascar

Pirates in Madagascar

The Pirate Cemetery is located on the islet in the harbour near the main town Ambodifotatra. At high tide the transfers will be done by pirogue.

A guide is not really necessary for the actual graveyard (usually no English spoken). The cemetery is small some of the names you will recognise are William Kidd (died 1834), though his was a monument, rather than a tomb and other: Joseph Pierre Le Chartier (‘tue 1837 par son ami, a cause de sa femme’ – killed by this friend because of his wife); Mme Rivet nee Giraudeau (1862); Jean-Marie le Thomas (1875).

In 1999 and 2000, Barry Clifford and his Project Team completed three major expeditions to Ile Ste. Marie off the coast of Madagascar, as a Discovery Channel “Quest” initiative, where five shipwreck sites were discovered; including the Adventure Galley (flagship of the infamous William Kidd) and the Fiery Dragon, commanded by the pirate William “Billy One-Hand” Condon. The other three shipwreck sites have been tentatively identified as the Ruparrel, The Mocha Frigate, and The New Soldado. After discovering and decoding cryptic rock carvings, he then used ground penetrating radar to explore an apparent tunnel-complex, similar to the Oak Island “Money Pit”, which may have been constructed by late 17th-century pirates.

Pirates in Madagascar

Pirates in Madagascar

Ile Aux Nattes is a small island south of Ile Sainte Marie. Off its idyllic beaches are some of the best reefs in the Malagasy region. This is a wonderful option for budget travellers. Boat transport to and from the nearby Ile Sainte Marie is easy to arrange. No cars on the island!

Pirates in Madagascar Newsletter

NOSY BE EDUCATIONAL

Thursday, July 9th, 2009

Antananarivo Market

Antananarivo Market

20 – 25 June 2009

Saturday, 20 June 2009

Flight MD 125 – Johannesburg to Antananarivo
On check in we were invited by Pierre from Air Madagascar to the Premiere Lounge where we met up with the rest of our group.  Our flight was delayed by 2 hours.  I was seated next to 2 Moslem ladies who had requested a special meal.  The air hostess was not aware of this, but quickly made a plan and with no effort at all warmed up a seafood meal for them.  I was most impressed that they went the extra mile to accommodate their dietary requirements.  It is important to note that there is no in flight entertainment on board the Air Madagascar flights.  I advised the Air Madagascar representatives that should they wish to attract more of the ‘family’ market from SA, they would need to at least provide colouring in books and pencils for children.  It is also necessary for us to inform our younger travellers of this so that they are prepared and can take goodies along to keep themselves occupied.

Antananarivo Shopping

Antananarivo Shopping

On arrival in Antananarivo, we were welcomed by Maherry Andriamamonjy from Air Madagascar head office.  We were advised that we had missed the connecting flight to Nosy Be and that he would accompany us to Hotel Du Louvre  in the CBD of Antananarivo where we would be accommodated for the evening.  After dinner we decided to explore the city and found a local Karaoke bar within walking distance of the hotel, where we experienced a true night on the town for the Malagasy’s.  We had our own James Blunt, Hannah Montanah and Celine Dion in our party.

Hotel Du Louvre
The hotel is undergoing a general upgrade it seems.  Rooms are comfortable – more of a corporate hotel, but ideally located with a view of the city and the Presidents Palace.

Sunday, 21 June 2009

We had the morning at leisure before our flight to Nosy Be and as a group we decided to take taxis to the market.  We enjoyed good bargaining and shopping.  Items mostly purchased were, woven baskets, tablecloths, gem stones, wooden crafts, authentic paintings and wired art.   At no time during our stay in Antananarivo did we feel unsafe due to political unrest or see anything out of the ordinary.

At 13:10 we departed for Nosy Be on Air Madagascar flight MD 124 via Diego.  The flight from Antananarivo to Diego was 1h30  where we then re-fuelled and continued our journey to Nosy Be a further 25 minutes flight.   I highly recommend that until such time that there is a direct flight to Nosy Be, that clients itineraries include one night in Antananarivo otherwise you will have disappointed clients stranded due to possible delayed flights.

Cheryl with Brown Lemur Nosy Komba

Cheryl with Brown Lemur Nosy Komba

What a warm welcome we received by Nosy Be Tourism.  We were greeted by two Malagasy song and dance groups.

We spent the evening at the Nosy Be Hotel with our stunning host Elma Ross.  We were treated to welcome drinks on the beach followed by a site inspection and dinner.

Nosy Be Hotel http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-g-madag.html

Awesome property, with all the comforts you would expect from a 4 – 5 star hotel.  Although I was surprised that the hotel only has a 3 star grading.  The rooms are very comfortable, beautifully decorated and no attention to detail lacks.  There is a boat house for the diving fanatics and every evening bookings are taken for the next days excursions, etc.  The beach is well kept and from 06:00 in the morning the team is already raking the beach and ensuring that guests have the best possible ‘beach’ experience.   From Nosy Be Hotel, you can see Nosy Sakatia.

Nozy Be Zebu

Nozy Be Zebu

Monday, 22 June 2009

We had an early start and departed by bus to Madiorokely where we were transferred by boat to Nosy Komba.  Visited the awesome Tsara Komba.  Exclusive, well run property owned by a consortium of French owners who started the property more as part of a dream than for it to be a business.   All lodges are private and have a sea view.  From the airport, the transfer time is 1 hour to Tsara Komba.  A recommended excursion from the property is a motorized pirogue that only takes 2 people for a trip around the island of Nosy Komba, including a stop off for lunch and a bit of shopping in the village. For the diving enthusiasts, there is a 27m deep wreck to be viewed not too far from the shore.

We continued our journey by boat to visit Floralies hotel Bungalows www.bungalows-floralies.com I loved this property.  The bungalows are right on the beach, rustic, but comfortable.  Not commercialized at all, although within walking distance to the local village.  Whilst walking through the village, you can purchase handmade goods, vanilla and linen tablecloths.  This is also the home of the Lemurs, who come and sit on your shoulder – my one tried to steal my sunglasses off my head.  The visit to the Lemurs is a must and makes for good photo opportunities.

Nosy Be Hotel Welcome

Nosy Be Hotel Welcome

We then boarded our boat and visited Domaine De Lokobe  www.nosybe-lokobe.com where we did a site inspection and enjoyed lunch.  The hotel is very French and clients will have a 4* experience although the property is officially only graded 3 star.  Language can be a challenge as it was difficult to communicate with the owners who are very French and speak minimal English.  The rooms are beautifully appointed and we were advised that the property is not very children friendly.

After lunch we were transferred by boat to Nosy Tanihely, which is home to Lemurs, flying foxes and wild life – no humans live on this island.  At Nosy Tanihely, we connected with the Nosy Iranja boat transfer to Nosy Iranja. http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-e-madag.html

We were met on the beach by a stunning team of Nosy Iranja staff, cocktails, etc.  The 29 private suites are beautifully appointed, with an open plan setting.  All suites have a sea view.  Nosy Iranja is ideal for honeymooners, although a 7 night stay might be a bit too long.

Vanila Hotel New Spa

Vanila Hotel New Spa

A visit to Nosy Iranja (Island of the turtles) will not be complete without viewing the newly hatched turtles – this was an amazing experience – just to see nature take its course and these little creatures make their way down to the ocean.  The sunset from Nosy Iranja is unforgettable and not to be missed when visiting this very romantic spot.

It is important to note that the generators are put off between 23:00 – 06:00 daily.  I was surprised that there were no torches available and that the candle provided was not in a container, but had to be erected in a saucer if used.  We had a beach dinner whereafter it was low tide and the sand bank was visible between Nosy Iranja and as they call it ‘big’ Iranja.  We all walked over to the other island.  It is imperative to be aware that even though you are on a private island, you need to ensure that valuables are locked away in the safe provided in the suite.

Tuesday, 23 June 2009

We had an early start and departed Nosy Iranja at 07:00 to visit Nosy Sakatia, where we visited Sakatia Lodge and Sakatia Passions.  At Sakatia Lodge, 75% of their business is from South Africa.  There are apparently awesome coral reefs to be viewed.  Sakatia Passions  www.sakatia-passions.com caters for the fishing fanatics and families alike.

Across the bay, back on Nosy Be, we visited Chanty Beach http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-c-madag.html
Nestled right on the beach and a beautiful garden, the rooms are looking a bit tired.  They offer dinner, bed and breakfast although the rooms are also suitable as a self catering option due to the small kitchenette.

Tsara Komba

Tsara Komba

The visit to Amarina Hotel http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1254/it06-a-madag.html was my favourite.  The team is so professional and although there is a strong Italian and French flair, once in this resort hotel, you feel like you are in Mauritius.  The beach is lovely and from the minute you arrive, you feel welcome and at home although surrounded by beautifully manicured gardens and comfortable, luxurious bedrooms.  Amarina Hotel is ideal for conference and incentive groups and can accommodate 90 pax cinema style seating.  From a recreation perspective, the hotel offers varied options, ie. Bicycle rental, volleyball court, fitness room, spa, etc.  This hotel will be very suitable to the SA market and it is highly recommended that we offer our clients a fully inclusive option at this property.

Sangany Lodge is a relatively new property located on the south side of Amporaha Beach.  Although our brochure indicated that they have a tree-house honeymoon bungalow, this is still very much under construction.  The signature of this property, is definitely the fact that there is a variety of different bath tubs in the individual suites as well as awesome showers fitted in private courtyards.  The furnishings and finishes are of a very high standard although I got the feeling that I was still on a construction site.  In my opinion, the hotel still lacks atmosphere and the gardens need to still be developed, specifically on the sea facing side of the villas.

Nosy Iranja Turtles

Nosy Iranja Turtles

A short boat trip brought us to Anjiamarango Beach Resort.  The owners are very French and we were thankful for our guide Jean-Pierre would could translate.  The villas are comfortable and spacious although the furniture was not of such a good quality and standard as which is the norm in Nosy Be.  The suites are all private and sea facing and at no time will there be other guests walking past the front of your suite.  There is a large mural of lemurs in the reception / dining area which I personally felt did not lend itself to a warm, upmarket ambience.

After a hectic morning of visiting ‘structures’ (as they call hotels in Madagascar), lunch was enjoyed at Table d’Alexandre Restaurent a Antosoha.

Our next stop was Explora Village  www.exploravillage.com Rustic bungalows, ideally located for the launching of speed boats, etc.  Also the ideal starting point for an Amazing Race programme for incentives.  I liked the relaxed environment of Explora Village for clients that have budget restrictions and do not require all the fancy extra’s whilst visiting this amazing destination.

Our last ‘structure’ visit of the day was at  Eden Spa  www.nosybe-edenspa.com which is located right next to Explora Village.  The property is definitely aimed at the traveller who is open to the more ‘holistic’ approach to life – spritual healing, colour therapy, etc.  They also have massage facilities.  The rooms are very basic and they can accommodate a maximum of 30 pax at the property.  Eden Spa is not located at the beach and definitely caters for a specific client. Personally, not a property that I will recommend.

Vanila Hotel were our hosts for the evening.  What a beautiful property.  Loads of atmosphere with a professional team of hoteliers.  The hotel has approximately 20 gardeners that manicure this immaculate tropical setting.  They are in the process of building a spa (with 5 jacuzzi’s) that will probably open in September / October 2009.  Vanila Hotel will then be the first hotel in Nosy Be with a spa.  Vanila Hotel is also an attractive option for conference and incentive groups as they have a conference room that can host approximately 30 delegates.   Here I had a lovely dinner with Nivo.

Wow, what a day this was – but really worth it.  Due to the fact that we lost a day as a result of our delayed flight, Nosy Be Tourism tried their utmost to still showcase the island to us as per our original itinerary.  Our agenda was jam packed, but worth it from a product knowledge point of view.

Wednesday, 24 June 2009

Nosy Be Quad Excursions took us out on a 2 hour excursion to Mont Passot (the highest point in Nosy Be) – what a view.  The quad trip was very enjoyable and I realized I do have a ‘Need for Speed’ and is ideal for that ‘adrenalin rush’.  The team that took us out was very professional and cautious.  An awesome way to experience Nosy Be and a nice inclusion for a corporate or incentive group, incorporating a Survivor or Amazing Race theme.

A site inspection was conducted at Auberge Orangea  www.orangea-nosybe.com a typical Italian resort in accordance to the ‘Club Med’ resort style.  This was also the only property which visibly had a substantial amount of tourists in house.  They are normally full for the bulk of the year as they have scheduled group arrivals from Italy on a weekly basis.

Our visit to La Maison des Parfums was brief.  Although rates are extremely attractive and they are prepared to offer us fully inclusive rates and complimentary airport shuttle, I am hesitant that we might receive guest complaints if we support this property.  The maintenance is of a poor standard and gardens have long grass which has visibly not been given attention in a while.

The site inspection of Catamarans at Madavoile Yachting  www.madavoile.com was definitely a highlight for me.  Why not offer our clients ‘Island hopping’ in Madagascar – why do you need to go to Greece when you have Madagascar. Stunning for small groups and ideal for living in a sarong all day – diving off for a swim and stopping off for dinner at one of the islands or watching the sunset from your Catamarn or Yacht.

Hotel Gerard et Francine  www.gerard-et-francine.com is quaint, homely and tranquil.  Located on the beach and very competitively priced.  From a location point of view, clients can walk to town for shopping or experience the night life.

L’heure Bleue treated us to lunch with a 180 degree view of the bay.  This bungalow hotel has picturesque views and is tastefully decorated and within a very short walking distance to the beach.  I can definitely recommend this property.

The afternoon was spent in a workshop with owners of structures, tour operators and members of the Nosy Be Tourism Authority.

Accommodation was at the Royal Palm – awesome 4* hotel www.royalbeach.mg.  Highly recommended hotel with conferencing facilities for approximately 100 pax.  5 minutes drive from the shopping area and night life.

We were hosted for dinner at Madiro Hotel – site inspection was conducted although the rooms are all dark and very 2*.  The restaurant has loads of atmosphere and lends itself as an ideal dinner option for groups.  Unfortunately the food was not great.  Regardless, we enjoyed our farewell Malagasy dinner, whereafter we went out for a night on the town to experience the night life.

Thursday, 25 June 2009

A heavy mood amongst the group, as we made our way first to town for a bit of shopping and then to the airport.  Our flight, MD 321 (direct to Antananarivo) was delayed by 1h30 and the Air Madagascar staff were clearly concerned that should the flight from Antananarivo to Johannesburg not be delayed, we would miss our connection and only depart Antananarivo on Saturday, 27 June 2009.  Regardless, all worked out well and they held the connecting flight to OR Tambo for us.

It was the end of a memorable educational trip to this beautiful island.  I most definitely look forward to sharing my experience of this awesome destination with my clients, family and friends.

GENERAL INFORMATION:

  1. Past tourism statistics reflect that the bulk of their visitors are Italians, with the French in second place and SA featuring in the Top 10.
  2. In January 2009, Air Madagascar stopped their direct flight from Italy to Antananarivo and hotel occupancies have decreased tremendously as a result thereof.
  3. Hotels were all empty and on certain evenings, we were the only guests in the hotel.
  4. August – October is Whale Season and this also attracts visitors.
  5. During October – March annually, many international cruise liners visit the waters of Madagascar.
  6. Nosy Be ideal for wedding, honeymoon and family holidays.
  7. Elma is busy putting together ‘traditional Malagasy’ wedding packages – where clients can marry in country of residence and then experience a traditional wedding in Nosy Be – this could be a good selling tool for the traditional wedding clients that are looking for something totally different and ‘out the box’.
  8. Our tour guide, Jean Pierre can be highly recommended.  He can be contacted at tourguides@yahoo.fr and works in association with the Tourism Board.
  9. South Africa is Madagascar’s closest neighbour that can assist in increasing their tourism statistics.
  10. The island is exceptionally quiet – certain hotels having no bookings in the system for the months of July and August 2009, as well as their peak period, December holidays.
  11. In comparing tourist arrival stats into Nosy Be for January and February 2008 to 2009, there was a 61% growth.  The latter will probably not be the case for 2010 as a result of the economic meltdown and not necessarily as a result of the politicial situation in Antananarivo.
  12. As a member of the Unusual Destinations team, I was well received by all in Nosy Be and I now know that we are the true “Madagascar Specialists” in the South African market.

Namoroka National Park (Madagascar)

Wednesday, July 1st, 2009
Namoroka National Park - Aye Aye Lemur

Namoroka National Park - Aye Aye Lemur

Mozilla reveals Firefox 3.6 (Namoroka) details
The code name for the version is Namoroka, a national park in Madagascar, which keeps to Mozilla’s naming conventions. …

Tsingy de Namoroka National Park.
The Tsingy de Namoroka National Park is situated in north-western Madagascar, south of the Ankarafantsika National Park and the Baie de Bali national park, and east of the Kasij special reserve. The park encompasses 22227 ha of eroded limestone rocks (tsingy formations), canyons, and caves, at 71-227 m altitude. The annual rainfall is 1000 mm. The vegetation consists of dry scrubland, woodland, and forest.
Some target species are Propithecus verreauxi deckeni (Decken’s Sifaka), Hapalemur occidentalis (Western Bamboo Lemur), Daubentonia madagascariensis (Aye-aye), Mirza zaza (northern giant mouse lemur), Brookesia bonsi (Leaf Chameleon), Mantella betsileo (Betsileo Golden Frog), Scaphiophryne calcarata (Mocquard’s Rain Burrowing Frog), Pachypodium ambongense (Elephant Foot), Dalbergia greveana (White Rosewood), and Ormocarpopsis calcicola, an endangered bushy tree with yellow flowers.

Namoroko National Park - Photograph by D. Haring

Namoroko National Park - Photograph by R. Zingg

The entrance is situated near the village of Vilanandro, between Soalala and Andranomavo, 50 km south of Soalala.This is very isolated park and mainly visited by researchers.
Other national parks on the west-coast of Madagascar:

Kirindy link

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/specials/honeymoons/news-itineraries/browse/1/article/1362/madagascar-8.html

Ankarafantsika link
http://www.unusualdestinations.com/new-itineraries/article/1038/madagascar-44.html

Anjajavy (Relais & Chateaux)
http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1425/it03-a-madag.html

Educational Nosy Be

Thursday, June 18th, 2009
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Educational Nosy Be

After being quite apprehensive and nervous about this trip it turned out to be completely opposite to what I expected and I am now so in love with Madagascar (the tiny little part of it that I saw)

On arrival at the counter it appeared that no-one else from this educational was checking in and my first thoughts were that I was going solo on this one. Still I checked in and thinking that the rest of the group would be in the VIP Lounge (I was delighted to have this pass into the lounge) but it was just me myself and I. After a lovely glass or two of wine my jittery nerves were slightly calmed (numbed!) and it was time to board. The flight was on time and the meal which I think was chicken was not too bad as far as airline food goes. After a slightly bumpy flight we landed in Antananarivo and to my relief finally met the rest of our group on terra firma. We proceeded through customs quite easily as we did not require visas (no visas required till 31 December)  and went straight through to the domestic terminal. On this connecting flight there is not too much time to exchange money etc. but it is possible. Air Madagascar will probably need to reconsider the connection time once they re-implement the visa requirement. Once we all boarded our pilot closed the hatches, stepped up the tempo and off we flew… into the night and of course arriving much earlier in Nosy Be than expected. Possibly a record for Air Madagascar and of course caught Escapades completely off guard. The friendly Escapades team were waiting to meet us with much needed ice cold water and the most beautiful fresh flower garlands, it was sad knowing that the effects and aroma of the Ylang Ylang were to be of no use to me having left my husband behind in Johannesburg!

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Educational Nosy Be

Our first night was spent at the Nosy Be Hotel and we were served a fresh Sea food platter beautifully presented and of course the infamous rum cocktails for which Madagascar is notorious.  Breakfast the next morning was continental with exotic fruits which we were all quite keen to try. We had a stunning view of the beach from the restaurant with a herd of Zebu enjoying a morning swim and stroll along the beach. After breakfast it was off to Explora Village to collect our quad bikes which we would use to explore the Island. Once we had decided who were the drivers and who were passengers we were off. It started off well on tar roads with the wind blowing through our hair as we drove up to Mont Passot (the highest point in Nosy Be) and had a look at some of the crocodile infested sacred lakes of Nosy Be. Going down the hills was a tad too adventurous for my liking as we hurtled down 90 degree slope on our way to the Amarina Hotel. Apparently this road is much improved now but I must admit I did keep my eyes closed a fair part of the journey.  You do drive through some of the most picturesque villages you could imagine. It was such an eye opener to see how basic life can really be and yet these people looked so happy!

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Educational Nosy Be

Full of dust we arrived at the Amarina Hotel which had been closed since February due to the political unrest which started end January.  It was sad to see this amazing hotel with one of the best beaches in Madagascar and not a soul in site. They are trying to keep all there staff by rotating them each week and most of them are so grateful to have the opportunity to keep their jobs and it seems like bookings are slowly coming in again. The gardens are looking quite run down but they are starting to work on them now. The transfer to the hotel now only takes 30 minutes with the new tar road but the last 4 kilometers is still quite a bumpy ride (especially by quad). For the rainy season they can do boat transfers which takes roughly the same time. They have interesting activities like being able to do wood carvings, painting and even embroidery with the local villagers on the beachfront.  Like most hotels in Nosy Be they use locally made furniture, bedding, light fittings and any other interesting things made by the local villages which gives it quite a unique Malagasy feel.

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Educational Nosy Be

From the Amarina Hotel we drove to quite a new property called Anjiamarango for lunch. The owners are a lovely French couple who after 20 years of saving are living out their dream of getting away from the cold European weather and living it up in sunny Madagascar. Their English is adequate to welcome guests and have a little bit of a chat but they also have a few other English speaking staff if need be. The lunch was superb and special mention must be given to the salad with grapefruit and prawns, wow! The bungalows are lovely and spacious and the beach is similar to Amarina (being right next door).

Our next stop was Hellville Harbour to transfer to Domaine de Lokobe (Lokobe Reserve). It was a good thing we had a guide with us because neither the owner or the staff speak any English. The bungalows are right on the beach and quite luxurious however they have permanent blinds which are set in such a way that you can actually see through them from the outside, there is no place in the bungalow that you can get dressed without being seen, not through lack of trying I must say! We were all a bit hungry on departure the next morning after being disappointed with the French cuisine ( burnt muffins are not great at any time!!). We were now ready to transfer to the awaiting Catamaran and our skipper Lourent who became quite the topic of conversation…as he was drop dead gorgeous and made up for the shoddy breakfast.

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Educational Nosy Be

Dream Yacht charters have 4 boats, 2 Cats and 2 Monohulls,  and offer a variety of trips as well as a 7 day cruise departing every Thursday. Our crew lead by Laurent were very professional and made the best coffee and lemon tart in Nosy Be! Our first stop was Nosy Komba, where we saw a few Lemurs and were able to do some shopping at the local market, I definitely kept the industry going for the day, there are the most beautiful hand made items on offer it was difficult to choose. We boarded the Catamaran once again and sailed o to Tsara  Komba.

Tsara Komba…. what an amazing property, spacious rooms with crisp linen and offering breathtaking views all add to the romantic ambiance! They have added little extras that make such a difference like walky talkies for all clients for the 24 hour service which you can enjoy from anywhere on the island. Their famous French chef made us such a delicious meal which was so welcome after the burnt offerings we had for breakfast that morning and the “less is more” dinner the night before. We were all starving to put it mildly! We reluctantly returned to the Catamaran and cruised to Royal Beach Hotel.

Royal Beach was so refreshing, the air-conditioning was so welcome after a scorcher of a day. We settled down to a hearty Malagasy meal and experienced a local dish called Rumazava which is a light broth of either chicken, fish or zebu served with rice, I loved it and plan on mastering it myself! Dessert was yet again a platter of fruits, no chocolate to my great disappointment and now looking thinner thighs…

It was up bright and early the next morning for the highlight of my trip… lunch on Nosy Iranja. The representative met us right on the beach in front of the hotel which is so convenient.  The speed boat is completely enclosed so you don’t get wet at all. It is a long transfer of 1 hour and a half hours and just when we thought we had arrived our boat broke down so there we were floating in the high swells of the ocean, typical case of so close but yet so far. So just before we all threw up one of the spare dive boats came and rescued us from becoming the next episode of “Survivor Madagascar”.

As you arrive at Nosy Iranja the crystal clear water and idyllic white sandy beach just take your breath away. You literally kick off your shoes together with your worries and begin your stay in paradise. Double bonus is no cell phone reception! All the sandy paths between the bungalows are under the cool shade of gigantic trees and offer a complete sense of tranquility. On the south side of the island are the turtles nests which the guides label and monitor so that they can bring guests down as soon as the turtles hatch.  It is a miracle to watch nature at its best. We had what was in my opinion the best meal of our trip at the restaurant overlooking the turquoise water. Unfortunately all good things must come to an end and it was time to head back to the mainland.

On our way to the Vanilla Hotel we stopped off to have a sneak preview of a new hotel being built next to the Vanilla which looks like it is going to be spectacular with its’ gigantic pool and beautiful spa and jacuzzi area. Watch this space!

We had a warm welcome at the Vanilla Hotel with rum cocktails and delicious snacks prepared by the fabulous f&b manager Mark who just oozes with enthusiasm and of course being French he just charmed us all. The swimming pools are just so inviting and we could not resist a quick splash before dinner with yet another rum cocktail in one hand overlooking the sunset… it’s a hard life but someone has to do it!

After a lovely breakfast which finally served eggs, we were off to Sakatia Island with our first stop being Sakatia Lodge. A perfect destination for any diving enthusiast. The nature bungalows previously had only cold water but now have their own geyser in each bungalow, not like you need hot water with the Nosy Be climate but it is nice to know that all the bungalow are the same now. After a scenic yet tiring snorkelling trip (having to swim back to the lodge from the snorkeling site) we flopped into Sakatia Towers which is named after Faulty Towers so John has an excuse for pretty much anything that might go wrong, he is the blonde Basil of these Towers. Each bungalow is charmingly named after each character like Manuel’s Manor, Poly’s Pen, Cheryl’s Shack and of course Basil’s Bungalow. We did not have the chance to experience the avocado soup but apparently it is a must! After risking our lives on the rickety jetty which is about 4 metres in the air put together with rusted nails and a few twigs with no railing we visited our last stop for lunch, Escapades beach. We were welcomed by the local little lemurs and had yet another scrumptious lunch of crab, coconut rice, freshly grilled fish and salads. The rest of the afternoon was spent lazing on the beach just absorbing this paradise and then we took a traditional Pirogue back to the Vanilla Hotel for sadly our last night on the island.

Our farewell dinner was hosted by L’Heure Bleue (the cutest hotel possible) with a local band teaching us to Salegi (local dance inspired by lots of rum) and just the most perfect ending to such an awesome trip. However it’s not over until it’s over and at the stroke of midnight we felt it was a necessity to indulge in the famous nightlife of  Nosy Be, so we all clambered into a 4×4 and showed off our extreme dancing skills at a local club called “Jam Jam”. It was an out of world experience and to be honest I felt like I was back in time in Hillbrow as we all remember it.  We danced the night away and quenched our thirst with a bottle or two of Tequila’s and…. Yes you guessed it RUM. In the early hours of the morning, we trundled back to the Vanila Hotel a little more worse of wear but having experience a fun evening..

We had about an hours beauty sleep before it was time to wake up, have breakfast and say our goodbyes. It felt like I was leaving a friend after having such a great time and falling in love with this little piece of Eden. And so my love affair had come to an end but this place had stolen a little piece of my heart and I cannot wait to go back…

Great news the whales have arrived on Ile Sainte Marie (Madagascar)

Friday, June 12th, 2009
Whale_tail

the whales have arrived

12 June 2009

With great excitement we are happy to confirm that the first whale sightings were Monday 8th June at 8h35. The two adolescent whales (7 metres to 10 metres) swam past Princesse Bora, situated in the south of Ile Sainte Marie (east coast of Madagascar) The whales usually stay until the end of September .

We would like to remind you that Princesse Bora includes two free whale expeditions per person per stay. (Minimum stay is three nights). These excursions are part of the research team and you may be asked to assist the team.