Antananarivo Deux Cheveaux

Day 1, 12 May: Antananarivo

Flying off with Airlink was a pleasure. The flight takes a mere three hours and was excellent!

Za Tours met us at the airport and everyone was introduced. Rija from Za Tours was our guide who travelled with us throughout the journey.  The face towels and the bottles of water were most welcome. A short bus ride to La Digue market where we were greeted with a first taste of Malagasy life, colourful baskets, car toys made from old tins, silk shawls and vocal vendors vying for our attention.

Check in at the Palissandre Hotel & Spa was efficiently handled. We all freshened up and left for the Lizzy Gallery for some MORE shopping. Lizzy’s boutique is always a success, I of course could not leave without another raffia box. Driving through Antananarivo gave us a good feel for this bustling city especially as traffic is very slow in peak hours so you get the chance to really observe another world.

After all this shopping we were all starving so it was off to the best restaurant in town called
“Kudeta”   – a fabulous meal with too many bottles of wine and great ambiance!

Masoala walk on the beach

Day 2, 13 May: Charter flight Antananarivo to Masoala Peninsula

Early up and about to start off a fun day. We were transferred back to Ivato Airport in time to board our private charter with TOA Charters. The reception area is quite luxurious and offers showers for passengers who are embarking later on international flights.  Everything is done for you! All we had to do was enjoy a cup of coffee, board our seven seater Piper and head off into the blue yonder to Masoala Peninsula.
Flight time approximately 90 minutes with jaw dropping aerial views. I was amazed to see just how large the Baie of Antongile is from the air. Nosy Mangabe is centred in the middle of the Baie and I realised then why it was such a great pirate hideaway in the old days.
On arrival Paula (from Masoala Forest Lodge) met us and we were then bustled into two tatty old taxis and off to Maroantsetra harbour (Unfortunately there are just no other better cars around – this was it!). We were met by Pierre and his crew at the harbour. Now the interesting part….. we had to clamber over an old steam boat in order to board the smaller Masoala Forest Lodge boat. This boat had a canopy but beware the one hour boat ride is a rough one as you leave the canal behind and enter the sea.  To compensate for the rough journey we rewarded with breathtaking view of the lowland rainforest which actually borders the ocean.  I wondered what else was awaiting us in these forests?

Private Charter to Masoala

Getting on terra firma it was wonderful to meet Sandra and Duncan from Masoala Forest Lodge who were waiting for us. What a lovely welcome!. We settled into the camp followed by some useful guidelines regarding the use of the lights, torches and hot water facilities. A scrumptious lunch ensued followed by a short talk from Sandra introducing the Masoala Peninsula and its quirky wildlife to us.  Next adventure…… we all headed off with Felix the local guide for a forest walk. He is the third partner of Masoala Forest Lodge. We strolled along quiet coves littered with huge boulders and turquoise sea all around – Sheena commented how the sand squeaked when we walked meaning it is pristine and untouched.  Our first sighting was is a boa constrictor followed by a number of different chameleons whilst listening to the calls of the exotic birds around us. Rija (our Za Tours guide) pointed out many of the insects, chameleons and birds. No lemurs yet…

We hopped into two traditional pirogues and were taken into a lagoon to enjoy the tranquillity of the bay. This setting was quite reminiscent of the “Madagascar” movie – the leaves seemed to have smiling faces and the trees are so huge you want to hug them.

Did we really hear the rare Helmut Vanga? We definitely had great sightings of Drongos and a cute Malagasy flycatcher.

Back to the lodge by sunset and time for a quick shower and delicious dinner. I fell asleep with all the flaps open and fell asleep listening to the torrential rain whilst tucked up warm and comfortable in my bed!

Please note

• Set meals are provided for the three main meals of the day. Meal times are flexible depending on the activities. Packed lunches are provided if the day’s activity requires it. Special food requirements or vegetarian meals or sea food, will be catered for if notified in advance. Snacks and refreshments such as  tea, coffee and fruit juice, are always available.
• Be suitably dressed for the boat trip with sun and rain protection handy and sandals and your active-wear clothing and footwear.

Masoala

Day 3, 14 May: Masoala National Park

After a fresh breakfast (homemade bread, homemade yoghurt, fresh fruit etc) we started off on another into the primary rainforest of Masoala National Park to view the birds, lemurs and countless other creatures endemic to this forest. Felix and Rija were in their element.  Due to time restraints we went by boat to the entrance of the park. I just loved the view of the thick forest encompassing the mountain right down to the beaches.  Being so tropical we had a few light showers and once again the marvel of nature as you see how the canopy of the forest absorbs the rainfall and only we only felt slight drizzle. The paths are very steep and we were grateful for our sturdy shoes which are a must to grip the slippery paths.  You need to wear long pants to protect your skin as well.  Remember to cover your cameras against the damp.

Masoala Red Ruffed Lemur

The sounds of the forest are an amazing, the trees are get bigger and bigger and are festooned with orchids and Tarzan like vines growing everywhere. Finally the rain stopped to our relief but this was short lived as a few minutes later the heavens opened again. Our raincoats proved invaluable. Since it was warm I decided just get drenched and live with it!  On a happier note did we hear the red-ruffed lemurs?  Yes! We finally get a up close and personal sighting of them on top of the mountain. Just the two of them are playing in the trees and needless to say we are all mesmerised and push on into the thick forest to get even closer.  The lemurs seem to share the same fascination with us humans and watch us with the same intent.

Towards midday we walked back to the beach along a river (which I proceed to fall into – in the most ladylike way I must admit). I was able to save my backpack with my goodies in it. Picked myself up and on we went amidst the mirth of my fellow companions.

Back to the camp for a well earned lunch and well earned afternoon siesta.  Donna and I felt energetic and decided to try out kayaking around the baie.  Comfortable kayaks (two man) warm water and  peaceful surroundings.

A pre-dinner night walk reveals relatively little, the mouse lemurs are not cooperating and stay well hidden. We found a couple of sleepy birds and some very annoyed chameleons and spiders.

Yet another great meal (fresh fish, vegetables and vanila cream made out of vanila crops from the area). My last night under the canvas tent listening to the sounds of the forest. I am sad to leave  this little Eden.

Masoala good bye

Day 4, 15 May: Masoala to Anjajavy

Up and early again to head off on our boat transfer to Maroantsetra. The boat ride is rough and we are all tired and heartsore to leave. A quick stop at Relais de Masoala (small lodge) to freshen up after the 90 minute boat trip. Many of our clients stay the first or last night at this hotel with its lovely gardens and comfortable rooms. It has a swimming pool and a great location along the inland canal.  Road transfer back to the airport where our charming pilot was waiting for us.

Take off and most of us slept on the plane ride. The one hour flight to Anjajavy is a delight for me, I have never flown this route and I am amazed at the high mountains and plateaus below us on descent to the Anjajavy area.

Anjajavy Karen Rita Donna

Another great landing on a private airstrip. Anna from Anjajavy met us. A quick pee pee stop (they have facilities at the airstrip) and we drive 30 minutes in a small bakkie (ute) to Anjajavy Hotel. Hurray… we spot our first Sifaka lemurs. This wakes us all up!

On arrival we are so impressed with the reception area which has amazing views over the swimming pool and Indian Ocean – it really takes your breath away. Anjajavy is truly beautiful and unspoiled.  The staff were charming and did your check in very professionally and speedily. Soon armed with a cocktail in our hands and short briefing of the resort we teetered off to our luxury bungalows.

After being in a tropical humid like such as Masoala it was a delight to have dry clothing and climate. Lunch was served in the chic restaurant and then it was more siesta time to chill and enjoy the rest of the afternoon.  Did I tell you about the Sifaka Lemurs I saw on my way to lunch? Chilling in the low branches I got some great sightings. What a pleasure seeing these beautiful animals so close with such ease.

We met up again for a pre-dinner night walk and we could not believe our luck. The mouse lemurs were perky and running up and down the trees for us like little showmen. Chameleons, nocturnal birds and the highlight for me was the Sportive Lemur we came upon at the end of the walk. Tick, tick the list.

Dinner was served in the main restaurant and the hotel went to town with the décor and ambiance.  We were entertained by the local village dancers who introduced Malagasy animals and showed us traditional dances from all over Madagascar.

A busy day under our belts and we all fell into bed and slept like babies. The bungalows are spacious and well laid out. The verandas offer incredible views of the ocean and for for some of us the air-conditioning was a treat!.

Anjajavy

Day 5, 16 May: Anjajavy

Morning at leisure. I woke up  full of energy and went off to explore the seven private beaches and made sure that I swam in each cove. I interrupted across a flock of Sicklebilled Vangas and we all frighten each other. My running disturbed a few snakes on the path as well…..I loved the solitude of these beaches knowing my footsteps were the first this morning.

Anjajavy organises beach picnics for all our guests and it is so unique to have a beach completely to yourselves in this crazy world we live in. Whilst I was discovering the beaches, my travel companions were treating themselves to deserved massages. We all met up for lunch and exchanged stories.

Anna fetches us at 15h00 and we are off  to Moromba Bay for a sundowner excursion.  This bay is known for its mushroom-like outcrops and Baobabs on the beaches. We get the chance to see the Sakalalva graves deeply hidden in the rugged cliffs and two Fish Eagles show off above us. How perfect was this day.

Our farewell dinner tonight is at the poolside and it sets the tone for a fun evening and lots of laughs.  I am sure I am not the only one sad to be leaving this amazing island.

Private Charter

Day 6, 17 May: Anjajavy – Antananarivo and flight out.

Our pilot awaits us, luggage is stored away and we board our small plane for the last time. 90 minutes and we are back in the midst of Antananarivo. Last minute shopping (girls love shopping!) before we check  in for our Airlink flight back to Johannesburg. A few lumpy throats, hugs and good byes before we head back to Johannesburg.

Packing suggestions

• Documents
• Passport, air ticket/s
• Visas (we will get our visas on arrival, no costs involved).
• Photocopy of the first 4 pages of your passport (to be kept separate from your passport);
• Money – cash and travellers cheques (keep copies of serial numbers in a separate location); VISA credit cards can only be used in Antananarivo at Palissandre Hotel, restaurant and at Hotel Anjajavy)
• Money belt.

Anjajavy

Clothing

• Sun- or bush-hat;
• T-shirts and one long-sleeved cotton shirt;
• Rain jacket
• Shorts, skirts, long trousers;
• Tracksuit, jersey, anorak for the cool mornings
• Sturdy, comfortable shoes with a good grip (tennis shoes/takkies or track shoes are fine); thongs/slip slops/beach shoes
• Swimming costume
• Be suitably dressed for the boat trip from Maroantsetra to Masoala Forest Lodge. Have sun and rain protection handy and sandals and your active-wear clothing.
• Good quality sunglasses preferably polarised. Tinted fashion sunglasses are not much good in harsh light;
• Camera equipment.
• Zip-lock plastic bags to keep your camera free of dust;
• A good torch, spare batteries and bulb;
• Binoculars;

Anjajavy dancing

Toiletries

• Basic medical kit including Lomotil / Immodium, aspirin, plasters, antiseptic cream, rehydrate (Game), malaria prophylactics, etc.;
• Moisturising cream & suntan lotion;
• Anti-histamine cream;
• Insect repellent, e.g. Peaceful Sleep, Tabard and Doom;
• Feminine hygiene products;
• If you wear contact lenses we recommend that you bring along a pair of glasses in case you get eye irritation from the dust; solutions and cleansers.

Madagascar hotels

Antananarivo Lac Anosy

Antananarivo

Antananarivo, the island’s capital city with a population of 2 000 000 is situated at 1 370m above sea level. Picturesque with its many hills, traditional houses scattered on the hillside and numerous rice paddies this town is full of character. Tana, as the city is often called, has unusual French and Asian inspired architecture and winding cobblestone streets and staircases that create a medieval impression. Walk around Avenue de l’Independence, the capital’s main street and enjoy the bustling vibe of the city and the many street cafes. Other attractions include the colourful daily flower market on the edge of Lake Anosy and the botanical and zoological gardens (Tsimbazaza), where you can see the egg and 3m tall skeleton of the extinct aepyornis, or elephant bird. Sadly, the Rova (Queen’s Palace) burned to the ground in 1996. The palace is currently being rebuilt and there are nice views of the city.

There is a selection of good restaurants in Antananarivo, some of which are of a high standard. Amongst the best are: Le Restaurant, La Boussole, O Poivre Vert, Kudeta and Cafe de la Gare.

Palissandre Hotel & Spa ****

Perched on the slopes of a hill, 5 minutes drive from the business centre of Tana. Stunning views over the town. The Palissandre has 46 spacious rooms, reflecting traditional Malagasy architecture with pink-coloured bricks, Matasoa stone, rosewood and marble. It offers all the facilities of a modern business and leisure hotel. 42 standard rooms and 6 family suites. All bedrooms are equipped with TV, air-conditioning, telephones, room safe, mini bar, bathroom with shower, hair-dryer and a desk. There is a small gym, a spa and a lovely garden restaurant with umbrellas and swimming pool area with recliners. English speaking reception.

Pavillon de l’Emyrne ***+

Pavillon de L’Emyrne, a charming and traditional guesthouse is situated in the city centre close to a choice of excellent restaurants. This upmarket boutique guesthouse has a choice of room types from standard rooms (3) superior rooms (8) and prestige suites (2). Each room has an enclosed patio and all rooms have tea and coffee facilities, mini bar, air-conditioning, safe, telephone, hair-dryer and television. Each room has an en suite bathrooms but no actual baths, only showers. The garden is a haven of peace and a welcome respite from the busy city.

The dining room is charming and airy with lots of windows looking out onto the garden and original art work is displayed on the walls. Breakfast is served in the dining room.

Masoala

Masoala Peninsula

Masoala has been described as the last Eden on earth…and as you glide down the Antalavia River in a dugout canoe, you can understand why. With its lush tropical rainforests leading right down to ocean’s edge and mist-covered mountains providing an ever present moody backdrop, Masoala Peninsula is one of the world’s only remaining untouched destinations and home to Madagascar’s largest national park – Parc National Masoala.

With its three marine reserves and unparalleled diversity of flora and fauna, Masoala is the only place where you can encounter one of the most beautiful lemurs in the world and two of the planet’s most rare bird species – the serpent eagle and the red owl.  And with 2435 species of plants to call their playground, the area is teeming with exotic frogs, insects, and other curious creatures. If you pay attention, you might encounter the startling fringed gecko Uroplatus fimbriatus. The largest of the known species of leaf-tailed geckos and a genus confined to Madagascar, this character is known to make barking sounds and is sometimes mistaken for a dead leaf.

Your journey will not only allow you to touch and feel the magnificence of the park, but will contribute to preserving the magic of Masoala. The eco-tourism activities of the Masoala Forest Lodge form part of an international conservation program, and provide a valuable source of sustainable income for local communities.

Maroantsetra, Relais du Masoala ***

Set in a lush coconut grove by the bay, overlooking Nosy Mangabe and with the Masoala Peninsula as a backdrop, this is an oasis of peace, warmth and charming simplicity acclaimed as an exceptional eco-tourism development. 15 spacious palm-thatched bungalows ensuite (shower & WC). The food, including picnic lunches, is excellent. Swimming pool and games. This is the gateway to the eco-tourist destination Masoala Peninsula and Nosy Mangabe.

Tampolo, Masoala Forest Lodge ***

Located in the heart of the wild Masoala Peninsula at Tampolo is a rustic bush camp. Set behind a line of hardwood trees and facing the golden beach sands are six double “African Safari-style” tents with thatched protective roofs, built on wooden decks. The verandas have hammocks for those afternoon siestas. The tents are fully netted and furnished, providing the full experience of sleeping under canvas in the wilds, without any of the discomforts associated with camping. The main communal living area where you can find books and games is made of local Malagasy wood. Bathrooms and toilet huts are now en-suite.

Meals are a blend of Swiss & Malagasy rainforest cuisine using fresh fish and local produce. Activities include walks (day and night) in the primary rainforest, guided sea kayaking, and snorkelling, whale watching and fishing. Access to the lodge is by boat from the small town of Maroantsetra. The primary rainforest of Masoala National Park, rich in wildlife, is a short walk in any direction and numerous birds, reptiles and mammals are found in the camp itself.

Specials:

• Honeymooners: valid throughout the year
• Special discounted prices apply. Special dinners on the beach are arranged and the couple stays in the most spacious and private tent.

Activities and day trips

Activities included in your package (3 and 4 night stays):

• Guided walks in the primary and coastal forest of Masoala National Park with an official guide, English and French speaking.
• Guided nocturnal walks in the surrounding coastal forest.
• Guided visit to the local village of Ambodiforaha to experience the local culture and traditional way of Malagasy life.
• Guided sea kayaking on the sheltered coastal waters, subject to weather conditions.
• Guided pirogue trip in the Tampolo River.
• Snorkelling equipment provided.
• Traditional music-dance show in the evening.

Also included for longer stays:

• Day trips to Antalavia River, on foot or by kayak and returning by boat.

Additional payable activities:

• Day trips to Antalavia River, on foot or by kayak and returning by boat.  (Minimum 2 clients). Euro 50 per person.
• Day trip to Cap Masoala by boat, including a picnic lunch and snorkelling on the deserted island of Nosy Behentona. (Minimum 2 clients). Euro 80 per person.
• Boat fishing. Euro 30 per person for up to 3 hours.
• Whale watching. Euro 30 per person for up to 3 hours.

Anjajavy

Nosy Mangabe

While it is possible to camp on Nosy Mangabe, we do not recommend it due to the basic facilities and the impact on the environment.

Sea Kayak Expeditions

Sea Kayak expeditions on the Masoala Peninsula are offered during the months of May and October to December.

Please note: Masoala Forest Lodge

The Masoala Forest Lodge accommodates a maximum of 12 clients (sharing).

• Boat transfers are generally made in the mornings only.
• Boat fishing, whale watching and excursions to other sites on the peninsula are available.
• All meals, water and soft drinks included. Alcoholic Beverages are payable.
• Guided sea kayaking, snorkelling and river excursions by traditional canoe included.
• 30 % non refundable deposit requested at the time of booking.
• Masoala Forest Lodge is closed from 1 Feb to 31 Mar.
• Please read our information pages “Masoala what you need to know”.

Anjajavy Crique en Crique_walk

Hotel Anjajavy – Relais & Chateaux: ****

Situated 120 km north of Mahajanga is the luxury Anjajavy Hotel. It is built on a peninsula in a large bay and surrounded by a 450 hectare reserve of dry deciduous woodland – perfect for nature lovers!  There is no road to Anjajavy. Anjajavy lies in the heart of the Menabe Sakalava territory. There are signposted paths through the bush and forest.

Anjajavy can be accessed by plane from Antananarivo or Nosy Be. An extraordinary change of scenery is guaranteed as soon as you take off! After a flight of low altitude vistas of the scenery, you will land on a private runway on the Anjajavy peninsula.

A large swimming pool faces the ocean. The beach in front of your villa is reserved for sunbathing and swimming. A second beach with a marina offers the following water sports: Sailing boats, windsurfing, canoes, snorkelling, aqua gym, ski boarding, fishing boat excursions (to see the Morombe Bay, la Garconniere des Dieux…).

A small oasis of (Caillebotis sp) Palissandre (trees) offering welcome shade. This garden known as the oasis attracts a variety of birds and lemurs is a relaxing place for afternoon tea served here every afternoon at 17:00.

The forest surrounding Anjajavy is home to the daytime lemurs, Coquerel’s Sifaka and Brown Lemur which are easy to see. Nocturnal lemurs here include Mouse Lemurs, Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemur and Milne-edwards Sportive-lemur. Many species of bird occur here including Madagascar Buzzard, Grey-headed Lovebird, Tototoroka Scops-0wl, Sickle-billed and White-headed vangas, and Red-capped Coua. Madagascar Flying Fox are common in the nearby mangroves. Botanically this is a very interesting area with amazing groves of Baobab (Adansonia madagascariensis), Pachypodium, Euphorbia, Combretum and Albizia species, three species of palm and magnificent examples of Cycas thouarsii and many, many others.

The Bungalows

All 24 villas are built of Palissandre wood. Each villa boasts a spacious sea facing terrace with your hammock, a lounge, a breakfast area and a bedroom with a queen size bed with mosquito netting. A narrow set of stairs take one to aloft room with twin beds (ideal for children). The bathroom has a large bathtub, overhead shower and a separate toilet. Individual air-conditioning systems ensure your room always remains cool. Other amenities are: tea/coffee making facilities and a mini fridge (stocked with bottled water and other drinks on request).

Anjajavy offers a fine dining experience. Meals are French-inspired and highly dependent on seasonal availability. Malagasy dishes are on offer for those who wish to experience the local specialities. Breakfast offers everything from fresh seasonal fruit, croissants and yoghurts to a full English Breakfast. The lunch menu offers 3 to 5 choices per course. Meals are usually plated and the menu changes every 2 to 3 days. Dinner is a small fine dining 3-course meal with 2 to 3 choices per course. Beach barbeques are also arranged. Dinners in “the Oasis”, on the beach or on the villa terrace can be arranged.

Anjajavy

Activities

An excursion by boat to Morombe Bay is truly worthwhile as this is the best area in Madagascar to observe the rare and endangered Madagascar Fish-eagle.

Other activities include volleyball, mountain biking, tennis-table, pool, boulle, badminton, massages and nature walks. Twice daily walks along well laid out paths through the forests and near to the beaches with a local guide; the morning walk leaves at 09:30 and afternoon walk leaves at 16:30; tea is served in the oasis every day at 17:00.

Fishing – World class all year although July and August are not the best for fishing because of the wind; however June is the beginning of the Sailfish season and August is the beginning of the Marlin season. Other fish include Yellow-fin Tuna, Wahoo, King Mackerel, Dog-tooth Tuna and other big pelagic fish.

Free activities

Catamaran, windsurfing, snorkelling, canoe in the sea and mangroves, swimming pool, billiards, volley ball, excursions and walks into the forests.

Anjajavy offers a wide variety of walks which guests can either do unguided with a map or with one of the hotel guides. Picnics in the reserve can be arranged. Regular night walks are organised to discover Anjajavy’s remarkable nocturnal inhabitants. Anjajavy is also involved with the local community and guests are encouraged to visit the local villages.

Payable activities

Fishing

• Sport fishing    per hour per boat        € 85
• Popper fishing     per hour per boat        € 65

Boating

• Sunset cruise in the mangroves with aperitif    € 25/person
• Morombe Bay                    € 50/person
• Water ski per ½ hour                € 20

Bicycle

• Package for the stay                € 10/person

Massages

• Relaxing, slimming or dynamic 30 minutes    € 20
• Relaxing, slimming or dynamic 60 minutes    € 30

Please note

• Fishing excursions cannot be guaranteed unless booked in advance. Fly fishermen have to advise if they need equipment.
• Maximum weight of baggage 20kg.
• Satellite telephone and internet connection available on request from reception. Satellite television available in the lounge.
• Payment methods accepted at the hotel: Visa Card, traveller’s cheques and cash.
• A 20% non-refundable deposit is requested at time of booking.
• Minimum stay is 7 nights during peak season 19 Dec -4 Jan.
• Special conditions apply for groups (more than 9 clients).
• Minimum stay throughout the year is 3 nights.

Flight times

• 90 minutes from Antananarivo to Anjajavy
• 75 minutes from Nosy Be to Anjajavy
• Guests are met at the Anjajavy landing strip and are transferred in an open 4×4 to the hotel (~15 minute drive).

Access to Anjajavy is by scheduled air charter (usually a Cessna Caravan)
Flight times (subject to change) Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays.

* Anjajavy local time (= Madagascar time + 1 h)

Tuesdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Thursdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Anjajavy – Nosy Be        on request
Nosy Be – Anjajavy        on request

Saturdays
Antananarivo – Anjajavy     07:00 – 08:30
Anjajavy – Antananarivo        09:30 – 11:00

Private charter flights available on request (extra cost) for convenient daily connections.

Anjajavy

Specials

• Honeymoon special: 5 Jan – 31 Oct 2010
• Minimum stay is 5 nights. 50% discount on accommodation with full board for the bride. Extras offered: a massage for two, a romantic dinner and sunset cruise.
• Free nights: 1 May – 12 Jul 2010
• Pay for 6 nights and stay for 7 or pay for 10 nights and stay for 12.
• Free nights: 13 Jul – 31 Oct 2010
• Pay for 10 nights and stay for 11.
• Early bird offer: Book a 7 night stay at Anjajavy 6 or more months in advance and receive € 150 resort credit per villa redeemable only against services proved by Anjajavy Hotel.

Madagascar wildlife – species list

Separated from the African mainland for 160 million years and from India for 90 million years, its wildlife has evolved independently. Of all its animals, lemurs have been studied the most intensively and have received much attention from the conservation community and tourists. Currently there are about 71 species (new ones are being identified frequently).

Masoala walk

Masoala National Park

Mammals:

• Red ruffed lemur
• White fronted brown lemur
• Eastern woolly lemur
• Eastern fork-marked lemur
• Aye-aye lemur
• Mouse lemur
• Malagasy striped civet
• Falanouc
• Easter ring-tailed mongoose
• Lowland red forest rat
• Greater hedgehog tenrec
• Lowland streaked tenrec

Birds:

Much sought after but very difficult to see, are the

• Madagascar serpent eagle
• Madagascar red owl
• Benier’s vanga.

Regularly seen are the

• Helmet vanga
• Nuthatch vanga
• Red-breasted coua
• Scaly ground-roller
• Short-legged ground roller
• Madagascar wood rail
• Velvet asity

Reptiles and frogs:

• Panther chameleon
• Boettger’s chameleon
• Stump-tailed chameleon
• Leaf-tailed gecko
• Day gecko
• Tomato frog
• Green-backed mantilla frog

Anjajavy

Anjajavy

Mammals:

• Coquerel’s Sifaka
• Common brown lemur
• Mouse lemur
• Sportive lemur
• Madagascar flying fox
• Greater hedgehog tenrec
• Fosa

Birds:

Many endemics are easy to see. Coastal excursions provide excellent opportunities for sighting the

• Madagascar fish eagle
• Madagascar sacred ibis (very rare)

Anjajavy

Other species include:

• Madagascar crested ibis
• Greater vasa parrot
• Grey-headed lovebird
• Red-capped coua
• Coquerel’s coua
• Crested coua
• Madagascar green pigeon
• Sickle-billed vanga
• Madagascar pygmy kingfisher

Reptiles:

• Ostalet’s chameleon
• Collared iguanid
• Fish-scaled gecko
• Madagascar giant day gecko
• Madagascar ground boa
• Madagascar hognose snake

Firstly I wish to express my sincere thanks to Wilderness Safaris for being afforded the opportunity to experience some of your exquisite camps in Botswana and Zambia and to witness some of the spectacular wildlife and cultural sights. It is indeed obvious that conservation is the most important aspect of your ethos and paramount that you protect the fauna and flora. It is also commendable that you include the local community wherever possible. Your slogan is just so apt. You do indeed change people’s lives.

To follow please find the necessary feedback on the individual lodges that were visited during our stay.

Zambia:

Arrived at Livingstone Airport. Impressive airport but just one cubicle open to clear immigration for a relatively full flight. This was quite a lengthy procedure as this counter serviced the people with and without visas and numerous people were having visas issued on arrival. It would also be advisable for arrival forms to be handed out on board to avoid having to complete the forms once inside the airport building and everybody clamming for limited counter space. Met on arrival by your friendly representative who took immediate care of us. Transferred to Toya Leya in a very comfortable vehicle and given some interesting information about the town of Livingstone along the way. We had experienced a huge storm just after landing so the normal entrance to Toya Leya was flooded to had to arrive through the back entrance.

05 December:

Toka Leya

Arrived to a very friendly welcome and detailed briefing regarding the lodge and activities available during our stay. We were shown to our rooms and a quick visit to see the family room. The layout is very cleverly designed and allows for ample space for 4 people sharing. The family room as well as the room I was in are situated amongst quite thick foliage whereas most of the other rooms as situated with open views onto the river which I think would be preferable for hippo sightings from your veranda. We were then treated to our first high tea which was so enjoyable and then onto the river cruise which was just so relaxing and well organised apart from the boat breaking down but another one coming to our rescue in no time at all.

Back to the camp where we all sat around the campfire and treated to the most scrumptious snacks and drinks prior to dinner.  Met up with Martin and a Wilderness client who joined us for dinner. My special dietary requirements (no red meat) were well adhered to and excellent alternatives offered. Wines were also superb and service good.

On the second day we were once again greeted by the warm hospitality of the staff. Always a broad, friendly smile and nothing was ever too much for them. Breakfast was most enjoyable with a wide variety for choice. Well oiled lodge regarding management and staff.

06 December:

River Club   

After breakfast we headed for River Club where we were met by the charming Peter Jones. He is just so proud of his establishment which is wonderful to see. Sat done and had a detailed briefing on the lodge and then did a sight inspection. The main area and pool area/ gardens are very beautiful with gorgeous views of the river and nearby island. It is awfully colonial and would appeal to the older generation in my opinion. It is however conducive to the history and ambience of this area.

The location of the rooms are good but do feel that they require a bit of sprucing up.

The bathrooms are looking rather tired and are in need of a renovation.

Then set off for Victoria Falls which was a treat. Afternoon boat cruise which was very pleasant and conducted by a very competent guide.

Once again had a delicious dinner.

07 December:

Botswana:

Dumatau

Road/ boat transfer to Kasane for flight to Dumatau. Met by our delightful guide who I found to be the most pleasant of all our guides on the trip. Starting pouring with rain en route to the camp but we were handed out the ponchos which kept us relatively dry. Some did however get drenched and maybe something can be implemented to ensure that the ponchos allow for completed protection from the rain. Room/bathroom very comfortable but perhaps the bathroom could be slightly upgraded and toilet area made more private in the case of it not being a couple sharing the room. Other than this a well maintained lodge with extremely friendly and helpful staff. The stand in manager was doing a sterling job. Treated to traditional dancing in the evening prior to dinner.

Savuti

Did a sight inspection of Savuti which is a beautiful lodge. This I would highly recommend to clients. The rooms are stunning and bathrooms out of this world. Family unit also perfect for families. The communal area is very well laid out and nicely decorated. Lovely view onto the Savuti Channel which is now flowing again.

It would appear that the manger is very hands on. Came to our assistance en route when our vehicle broke down a short distance from the lodge.

08 December:

Very good game drive where we saw more wildlife than anywhere else on the trip.

Flight to Vumbara.

Little Vumbura

Met by our guide who was very humorous and kept us entertained for 24 hours.

Lovely entering the camp by boat. Very interesting and detailed briefing by management and shown to our rooms.

This was my favourite lodge and very spoilt to have  had the honeymoon suite. Cannot fault any detail about Little Vumbura. Everything was superb. The attention to detail was very evident. Late afternoon boat trip which was excellent. Got back to camp just before an almighty storm. Food outstanding.

09 December:

A mokoro trip was planned for early morning but once again it was raining so this did not happen. A huge pity as this I would imagine to be very special. Drove to Vumbura Plains.

Vumbura Plains

Very impressive and could certainly determine why it is classified as a premier lodge. The communal area and rooms are just so much larger and definitely have a more opulent feel about them. Met the manageress at south camp and had a general brief of the lodge whilst looking over the magnificent plains where I am sure many a client spends an enormous amount of time doing just that. Visited the family unit at north camp. The layout of the enormous room is gorgeous and having your own splash pool a bonus.

Kwetsani

Flight to Kwetsani. Met by our guide and transferred to the lodge. I did somehow feel that he was lacking knowledge concerning the area. Arrived and met by the most amazing husband and wife managers. They treat you as though they were welcoming you to their own home and their hospitality was commendable.

More traditional décor but the tree houses are beautiful. Thourourly enjoyed my 2 day stay here. Delicious wholesome meals were served.

Went on a short game drive but not much was seen and then proceeded to the mokoro station to have a quick ride through the narrow channels. It was however so peaceful and enjoyable with a little daunting hearing the hippos close by. The lack of wildlife during the green season could present a problem if someone was expecting to see more. This will have to be highlighted if sending clients during this period.

However Lechwe’s abound.

10 December:

Jacana Camp

Sight inspection of Jacana. This camp is somewhat more rustic than any other we had seen but just so cute. Communal area and rooms/bathrooms rather small. The upstairs dining room area allows for beautiful views. I am sure during the high season when the water levels are high, this must be an amazing place to be. Once again the managers ( husband & wife team)  are so funky and just seem to suit the lodge and clientele that it will attract.  Did see a considerable amount of bird life along the way as well as some water inhabited creatures.

Jao Camp

Continued onto Jao Camp which is simply outstanding and once again very visibly understandable why it is a premier camp. Met by the newly appointed husband and wife managers who appear to be hell bend on ensuring that the clients experience the ‘wow factor’.  Just everything about this camp is just mind blowing anyway so not much effort needs to be put in. The 2 pool areas are magnificent as well as the split level communal area and spa. The décor in the elongated rooms does certainly not lack beautiful detail and would be fit for a queen. The outside veranda area and sala is also fantastic for whiling away your time either relaxing or game viewing.

Returned to Kwetsani. Afternoon game drive where not much was seen.

11 December:

Morning at leisure before transferring to the airport for our flight to Maun and return flight to Johannesburg. Wilderness staff at Maun airport were very efficient and took good care of us. All the Sefofane flights between the camps were on time and flown by very experienced and capable pilots.

In summary this was a very enjoyable and highly enlightening experience and did indeed allow me to understand the Delta and realise that it is very important to establish which are water and land based camps and which would be preferable for clients. In general there is very little room for improvement from Wilderness Safaris and just keep doing what you are doing as it really works. The clients we have sent to date, come back raving about your properties and service.  Now I know why.

I will therefore continue to sell your properties with the utmost confidence with my newfound knowledge.

Once again many thanks to Zania Claassen and Wilderness Safaris for a wonderful trip!

Janet

Ah Madagascar. It’s evocative and a complete enigma when you scratch just below the surface. I can’t imagine there’s any other place on earth quite like it. It’s simply impossible to be indifferent to it. And it creeps into your heart, even if you fight it off bravely. The red island is magical, and more than a little mysterious. And the delicately woven belief system is just the beginning. It’s mostly ruled by the ancestors or razana, who play an important and respected role in daily life. Each of the 18 tribes on the island has its own curious and complicated system of taboos that govern living styles and unite each tribe in its individuality. Bizarre and fascinating to us, taboos are completely normal to the Malagasy. It’s just the way life is.

 While there are taboos for entire tribes, there are also for different families and even individual people. But the Malagasy understand each other’s ways and deeply respect each other’s beliefs, and everyone remains happy and content. In Madagascar, smiles are hard to ignore and a deep appreciation of life is a harsh lesson in anti-materialism. Money definitely doesn’t bring happiness, because the humble Malagasy are the happiest, warmest people I’ve ever had the honour of meeting. They are not a rich nation, but a truly wealthy one.

Chicken legs and boy’s clothes

Between June and September, the ruling Merina tribe and the Betsileo practice regular bone turning ceremonies to honour the dead and commune with them. They also believe it’s taboo to sing while you eat, unless you want your teeth to grow long. And, you should never hand someone an egg directly, it must first be placed on the ground. While the Merina don’t hold funerals on Tuesdays because they believe then somebody else may die, the Tsimihety tribe believe funerals are quite acceptable on Tuesdays, but then working on the land is not. At a meal, the Merina give chicken legs to the children, whereas the Antankarana keep these for the father of the household. For them it’s also taboo for a girl to wash her brother’s clothes.

In the rainforest of Ranomafana, the Tanala don’t practice bone turning but honour the dead by erecting family graveyards deep in the forest. These Vatolahy are simple rows of standing stones, reminiscent of Stonehenge, with the biggest headstone depicting the richest ancestor. The living family visit the site regularly to discuss problems, ask advice and tell village news, and they bring along food and drink to share with the ancestors. Moss is respectfully cleaned from the headstones with zebu cattle fat, after which blood and rum is left behind as an offering. It is the village medicine man who chooses each headstone, which is then dragged all the way from the village on a specially chosen vine – because it’s taboo to carry the stone.

Totems and Erotic Art 

In the south, tribes carve wooden totems that depict scenes from the life of the deceased, and tombs are always more elaborate than homes. At funerals, zebu cattle are slaughtered too, sometimes up to 50 at a time. Living along the west coast of Madagascar, the Sakalava are fishermen and mariners, but their burial practices are, well, quite different to any others. They dig graves into the ground and surround them with handcarved palisade fences. On each cornerpost are wooden carved figures of the most erotic kind, and in every contorted position of the Karma Sutra. No maintenance is done on the woodwork, because they believe that only when it falls apart completely is the soul of the deceased released and free.

 Taboos exist across all tribes and ironically have benefited the island’s lemurs. It is taboo to kill or eat lemurs, which is possibly why they still exist and are actively conserved in Madagascar. For the Sakalava it’s also taboo for a pregnant woman to eat fish or sit in a doorway. In a show of respect, the Antandory people forbid children to call their father by his name or to refer to any part of his body by its usual name. They never talk of his head, but rather of ‘the top of him’, and his feet are ‘that with which he walks’. And others believe you should never ask for salt directly, but rather request ‘that which flavours the food’. Spades used for grave digging should always have loose handles, so there isn’t direct connection with the dead.

 Pregnant women in the Antanosy tribe also dont sit in doorways, talk to men or eat brains. And childless people should not overnight in her home either. This tribe won’t eat meat at funerals and they have the quirky practice of only allowing butt naked men to open tombs. When corner posts for a new house are being dug, it must be done – rather uncomfortably – sitting down.

Little Men with Long Hair

Ghosts and mermaids are part of normal life for the Betsimisaraka people of the east coast.  And they also believe in Kalamoro, which are little men with long hair that live wild in the forest and steal rice from kitchen pots. Brothers and sisters may not shake hands and young men also don’t wear shoes while their father is still alive.

Planning the Week

And it gets more complex, with the system of destiny that operates alongside the taboos. Called vintana, it governs time – when it’s good and bad to do certain things. Because Sunday is God’s day, it’s not a day for rest but for work – because it will succeed. Monday, however, is not a good day for work, unless you’re building a house, and Tuesday is bad for burials but good for exhumation. Funerals are for Wednesdays and Fridays, and weddings for Thursdays and Saturdays.

With that out the way, the days of the week also have colours and associated taboos. Monday and Thursday are black, so people avoid black objects and don’t eat dark coloured food. They may even sacrifice a black chicken to keep bad at bay. And for the rest of the days of the week, there are similar rules. Luckily, the gracious Malagasy don’t expect foreigners to know all their customs, so tourists are forgiven if they commit a taboo. More easily understood to the western mind are the systems of tody and tsiny. They are similar to the principle of karma, which says that for every action there is a corresponding reaction. So the Malagasy live by ‘doing unto others what you would have them do unto you’.

Taboos exist across all tribes and ironically have benefited the island’s lemurs. It is taboo to kill or eat lemurs, which is possibly why they still exist and are carefully conserved in Madagascar. Importantly, if you ever experience an earthquake while visiting Madagascar, don’t be afraid – it’s simply the whales bathing their children.

Departed J’burg’s O.R. Tambo International airport on the SA Airlink flight to Lusaka which departed at 06h50, a nice quick flight of 1h55 mins aboard one of their Embraer jet planes (from Brazil) which takes approximately 37 passengers.  On arrival I was met by two representatives from Sefofane Air Charters who allowed me to join the Zambian residents queue for customs and immigration.  I was the only one at this counter so I felt very lucky.  I flew from Lusaka to Lufupa Tented Camp, aboard a Cessna 210 (5 seater) light aircraft, with a very funny and likable guy named Nick who has his own flying school based at Lusaka airport –  I knew I was in excellent hands!  Happy sailing all the way (approx 1 hr) to Lufupa airstrip and then I was met by John D, from Lafupa Lagoon Camp, who drove me by open Land Rover to the lodge, only five minutes away. After hearing the full rundown of the camp and that I was not allowed to blow the horn, unless there was a lion inside my tent, I signed the indemnity form and made my way to the tea/coffee area where I knew a yummy cake of some kind would be waiting.  I was right, some delicious banana bread was waiting to be devoured, along with ice tea or coffee.

I am King of the Castle

Tips

1. If you are booking clients to Zambia and they have passed through a yellow fever or cholera area, be sure they have an International Certificate of Vaccinations handy, in case they are asked to present it.
2. Luggage: 20 kg in soft bags (NO HARD SUITCASES) and preferably no luggage with wheels) when travelling to Zambia and Botswana.  Maximum dimensions of the soft bags: 25cm wide x 30cmhigh and 62cm long.  Notify Wilderness if passengers weigh more than 100kg’s – they will have to pay for an extra seat!  If they are travelling on a private charter everything has to be taken into account and it may mean clients can take more luggage.
3. This is Tsetse fly country but the camps are equipped with a special spray that you can use and they often spray it on the outside of the vehicle to deter them.  As for mosquitoes, all camps have Peaceful Sleep spray in the tents and mosquito coils are also often found.

This afternoon was spent on the river and I thoroughly enjoyed seeing all the superb birds, hippos, crocs and of course plains game which were seen in the distance.  I especially liked seeing a Malachite kingfisher, even though it was near impossible to photograph him, he somehow knows when you are about to push the button to take a photo.  The afternoon activities at Lufupa Camp usually last between 3 – 4 hours and a sundowner drink with snacks is always on the itinerary.  So there I was cruising down the river with a glass of red in one hand and some moorish nuts in the other, nobody in site and the sunset going down in the distance – so relaxing and what a contrast compared to living in J’burg.

Back at camp there was just enough time to shower and throw on a clean shirt before dinner which was served at 8pm.  Kawanga, a trainee manager, and I had dinner together which was very enjoyable, under the stars on a deck near the water.  We started with a delicious cold soup and then had marinated beef (possibly game) with veggies and for desert we had Crème Brulee. So difficult not to put weight on at these camps!  The nice thing is that all drinks except imported liqueurs are included at all camps in Zambia unless otherwise specified.

After a good eat, a good sleep

+/- 930pm After a good eat a good sleep as they say, so I was escorted back to my room (a custom when visiting an unfenced game lodge) and that was the end of my first day in Zambia.  I must add that the feather down duvets and crisp Percale cotton sheets definitely enables one to have a deep sleep!  Even though Lufupa Lagoon is apart of the Safari & Adventure category of camps it definitely felt luxurious enough for me, the only thing missing was a fan, but apparently they are on their way.  Although you aren’t given tea and coffee in your room and they don’t stock Charlotte Rhys products, it didn’t really matter to me, but for Mrs Swartz I think the next camp I visited would be a better alternative, Shumba Camp.

Friday, 23^rd of October

5am wake up and I was ready for my coffee which was brewing when I got to the main area.  I wasn’t up to eating the Continental breakfast on offer, but I wrapped up one of their sweet corn fritters and jumped in the front of the Land Rover for my first morning game-drive in ages.  We saw lots including lion and John D. went out of his way to make me and the other couple happy, they were from England and lived in the Bahamas, their third trip to Africa and this wasn’t about to be their last.

Back at camp we enjoyed brunch and then I managed to get a few winks despite the searing heat, around 30 Degrees C.

Got to Watch Your Back Around Here

Instead of flying to Busanga, due to a shortage in fuel, I was lucky enough to be driven there, by Shumba’s camp manager Ben, as part of an afternoon drive. We headed off after the heat of the day at 16h00 and arrived at Shumba (a Premier camp – see description below) in time for dinner, taking us approximately 4-5 hours through Miombo woodland (see description of Miombo woodland below).  En route we saw serval, lion, elephants, sable and all in all it was a rewarding drive.  We also saw trees filled with Pelicans which all flew off at the sound of the vehicle, what a sight!   On arrival in camp, Ben introduced me to his wife Ingrid who did the camp rundown and showed me to my room.  The room was gorgeous, similar to the other Premier camps that Wilderness Safaris run in Botswana with indoor and outdoor showers, two single beds that can be converted into a king and mosquito nets draped over and around the beds; a separate toilet and a lovely sitting area to enjoy the view over the Busanga Plains.  The camp is surrounded by Sycamore Fig trees which made it interesting as the figs drop off and keep some the guests awake. Went to sleep with the calling of a lone male lion in the distance.  Some said he had lost the females and was hungry, but others said he was marking his territory, more likely to be the latter I think.

Shumba Camp (Premier)

Shumba Camp comprises six spacious luxury safari tents on raised platforms and falls into the category of Premier safari camp.  Premiers camps have nice extras such as a sala area, additional space in the actual bedroom with a lounge, an indoor and outdoor shower and some have plunge pools.  Shumba doesn’t have tents with individual plunge pools but they have a pool near the main area.  A few other extras are Charlotte Rhys bath products, a decanter with your choice of port, sherry or brandy and coffee or tea is brought to your room each morning.  If you preference is coffee you get a mini Bodum and some delicious home made biscuits.  Spa and massage treatments can also be offered at some Premier camps, including Shumba Camp and white robes are provided in your tent.

Saturday, 24^th of October

This is my Territory

5am wake up call and to a Conti. Brekky with muffins and flapjacks at 6am.  You learn how to jump out of bed and throw on your clothes by day two.  Had a great drive with Sam our guide and we saw plenty – no leopard but lion nearby and other mammals to make up for it. 

Brunch was served at around 11h00, a selection of cold meats, pasta and of course the full English breakfast thing with flapjacks and a selection of cereals.  I on the other hand had a packed picnic lunch as was departing by helicopter to Busanga airstrip, a ten minute flight. (In some instances clients may experience a delay when doing this transfer – this is due to the limited numbers of seats available on the helicopter).  I had no delay and on arrival at the airstrip I boarded an awaiting Cessna 206 (five seater – single piston engine) bound for Kalamu airstrip.  A two hour transfer by light aircraft isn’t my ideal but the pilot was super and I must add that Bruce from United Air Charters who flew the helicopter was very professional.  The helicopter transfer was incredible as we flew low across the grass green plains – wow!  

Kalamu Lagoon Camp is situated in the Luamfwa Concession in the southern sector of the South Luangwa National Park and the camp falls into Wilderness’s Classic range of camps.  As before, I had the camp rundown and signed the indemnity form before being shown to my tent.  This time my tent was near to the main area and the view was overlooking a permanent lagoon, just off the Luangwa River.  This is where I saw Thornicroft’s giraffe which are endemic to the valley.

This afternoon was enjoyed relaxing in the main area which is where the bar, lounge, dining and pool area is located.  It was wonderful looking over the deck as there was lots of game and birds to be seen.  A herd of about 10 elephant with calves were in the far distance, waiting for a good time to come to drink.  I felt like I was seeing more just sitting and watching from above their waterhole, as the lagoon was quite dry, than being on a game drive. 

There were yellow baboons, waterbuck, puku, grey herons, yellow billed storks and guinea fowl. As I was travelling in October the rains had not yet come but it was just a matter of time until the lagoon would be full again. 

Had dinner with one of the assistant camp managers Frank.  I must add that the chef at Kalamu is brilliant and everyone at the table commented on how nice his food was.

It was hot this evening and I was happy to put the fan on, without it I wouldn’t have slept.

Sunday, 25^th of October

What a View

Had a super walk despite it being really hot.  Petrus, the camp manager, also came for the walk, so we had Lucson our guide in front with the park ranger (rifle in hand) and we all walked single file along the route with Petrus at the back.  We saw Thornicroft’s giraffe, hippos, lots of plains game and had a talk on the various dung samples we found along the way – this is interesting I promise! We also talked about various trees and saw a few baobabs and another favourite, the sausage tree. 

After returning back at camp for brunch and a quick snooze, we all headed off to a nearby village to meet the locals. This was interesting and I enjoyed seeing their school and their cute thatched huts.  It was a bit sad to see what little they had but I am hoping that they will benefit from the increase in tourism.

On the way back to camp we enjoyed a night drive and were lucky enough to see hyena.  At camp, at approximately 8pm, we were spoilt again with a delicious three course dinner before retiring.  We were all exhausted!

Monday, 26 October

Breakfast in the Bush

This morning is my last morning and so I was allowed to sleep in a bit.  Wake up was at 6am and then breakfast at 7h00 for the 7h50 departure to Mfuwe with Sefofane charters, luckily on twenty minutes away.  On arrival I checked in for the Proflight flight which departed for Lusaka at 9h40, so arrival was at 10h50.   On arrival in Lusaka I was met by Dave a local Tour Operator and headed off for a city tour. It was very interesting to see some of the buildings covered in copper which was and probably still is their biggest export, although now they really have to drill deep down to reach any.  We weren’t able to see the Government buildings as they were closed to the public, so we headed off to a lovely restaurant and craft market.  They also have the Soweto Market which houses some 4000 stalls.  The markets are a hive of activity, the thousands of stalls are filled and cleared every day. A myriad of motor spares dealers, restaurants, hairdressers, fishmongers, fruit sellers and rows and rows of “salaula” – discarded clothing from the West sold to Africa by the bale. I also found that Lusaka had a lot of familiar shops – Pep, Shoprite, Mr Price etc. so if clients have time to kill and they want to do some general shopping they can.  Please just advise clients not to take valuables into the market.

At approx. 230pm I flew out with Air Zambezi which was pleasant enough, aboard an Air Namibia plane, and they served a light snack before landing in Johannesburg.

A wonderful experience and a sincere thank you to Wilderness Safaris, SA Airlink, Sefofane Air Charters, the camp staff and of course Unusual Destinations.

My bird sightings in Zambia:

Cattle Egret, Slaty Egret, Yellow-billed Egret, African Darter,Hamerkop,  Saddle-billed Stork, Marabou Stork, Yellow-billed Stork, Hadeda Ibis (like we have at home), Egyptian Goose, Bateleur, African Fish-eagle, Wattle Crane, African Jacana, Helmeted Guinea-Fowl, Copper-tailed Coucal (also known as crash landers), Meyer’s Parrot, Great White Egret, Red-necked Francolin, Cattle Egret, Goliath Heron, Brown-snake Eagle, Dickensons Kestrel, European Bee eater, Yellow-billed Kite, Pied Kingfisher, Malachite Kingfisher, Lilac-breasted Roller, different Hornbill, Red-capped Lark, Lessor-Stripped Swallow, White-backed Vulture and I think we say the White-headed as well. Unfortunately, I didn’t see Chaplin’s Barbet which is endemic to this area.

Mammal sightings:

Elephant, Thornicroft’s Giraffe (South Luangwa), Roan Antelope, Sable Antelope, Bushbuck, Oribi, Impala (not in the Busanga Plains area as they would get hoof rot), Greater Kudu, Puku, Common Reedbuck, Common Waterbuck, Hartebeest,  Plains (Burchell’s Zebra, Warthog, Hippos, Crocodiles, Peter’s Epauletted Fruit Bat, Side-stripped Jackal, Lion, Serval (saw two on the way from Lafupa to Shumba), Yellow baboons, Vervet monkeys and more…

ZAMBIA – GENERAL INFORMATION

-          Heavy rains in the Kafue from December to March – average of 1200 mm received in four months.

-          The backflow from the Lufupa river pushing north into the plains, makes it a watery Wilderness.  Busanga Plains is an internationally protected wetland area.

-          Lufupa river is the largest tributary within the Kafue National Park.

-          Kafue NP is Zambia’s largest national park, but its wildlife has not always proved so easy to see.  Rampant poaching during the ’70 and ’80 drastically depleted game populations.

-          Lufupa is in the central northern sector of Kafue National Park

-          Kalamu Lagoon Camp (previously known as Kwena Lagoon) is situated on the Luamfwa Lagoon.  This lagoon is the largest source of water away from the nearby Luangwa River and a magnet to local wildlife.

-          Zambia has a total surface area of 752,618 km square and total population of 11,668,460

-          Dollars to Kwacha use approx 4.5 as rate of exchange (subject to change of course)

-          Departure taxes US$25 per person when leaving Zambia. Sometimes this is included in the ticket – not when flying with Air Zambezi and some others.  South African Airways and Airlink include this amount in their tickets.

-          Domestic departure taxes US$8 per person – payable direct when departing internally on a flight out of Lusaka, Livingstone and Mfuwe airports.

-          When paying departure taxes please take exact amount of US Dollars as change is not usually provided.  Large denominations such as US$50 or US$100 bills are not accepted. Travellers cheques and credit cards are also not accepted for these taxes.

-          International Visa and MasterCard are generally accepted but American Express and Diners Club are not.  Wilderness Safaris’ camps are unable to accept American Express cards.  Some camps in remote areas do not accept credit cards at all.  Advisable to take small denominations of cash or travelers cheques.

-          Nationals of all Commonwealth countries do not require visas to enter Zambia except for countries that need visas on a reciprocal basis such as: Australia, Britain, Canada, India, New Zealand and Sri-Lanka.  Of those nationals that do require a visa, some countries are required to apply in advance in Zambia and others can apply on arrival at the port of entry. Costs vary depending on nationality.  Please refer to my little book on visas if you have any questions.  Multiple entry visas are required when entering Zimbabwe etc. etc. 

-          Luggage: 20 kg in soft bags (NO HARD SUITCASES) and preferably no luggage with wheels) when travelling to Zambia and Botswana.  Maximum dimensions of the soft bags: 25cm wide x 30cmhigh and 62cm long.  Notify Wilderness if passengers weigh more than 100kg’s – they will have to pay for an extra seat!  If they are travelling on a private charter everything has to be taken into account and it may mean clients can take more luggage.

-          All goods in Zambia are priced to include value added tax (VAT) of 17.5%

KAFUE NATIONAL PARK – helpful info

Habitats                                                                                                                                      

Miombo woodland dominates the Kafue National Park.

The Busanga Swamps in the far northwest  are a permanent wetland, surrounded by the open Busanga Plains.  In the very south the woodland thins out towards the Nanzhila Plains and mopane replaces the miombo.  Riverine forests lines the banks of the Kafue, and there are isolated pockets of teak forests. 

So what exactly is Miombo woodland? 

Miombo woodlands form a broad belt across south-central Africa, running from Angola in the west to Tanzania to the east. These woodlands are dominated by trees of subfamily Caesalpinioideae, particularly Miombo (Brachystegia), Julbernardia and Isoberlinia, which are rarely found outside Miombo woodlands. There are four ecoregions :

• Angolan Miombo woodlands (Angola)
• Central Zambezian Miombo woodlands (Angola, Burundi, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Malawi, Tanzania, Zambia)
• Eastern Miombo woodlands (Mozambique, Tanzania)
• Southern Miombo woodlands (Malawi, Mozambique, southern Zambia, Zimbabwe)

Despite the relatively nutrient-poor soil, long dry season (and low rainfall in some areas) the woodland is home to many species, including several miombo specialist endemic bird species. The predominant tree is miombo (Brachystegia spp.). It also provides food and cover for mammals such as the African Elephant, African Wild Dog, Sable Antelope and Lichtenstein’s Hartebeest.

Rivers

The Kafue River enters the park in the northeast and exits in the southeast.  It was dammed in the 70s .  Its major tributaries include the Lunga and Lufupa (northern sector) and the Nanzhila (southern sector).

Wildlife

Antelope species: roan, sable, sitatunga, red lechwe and Lichtenstein’s hartebeest.  Predators include lion, leopard, wild dog and notably cheetah.  Ele, buffalo and zebra are widespread, but there are no giraffe in Kafue, lots in South Luangwa – subspecies Thornicrofts Giraffe.  Hippo and crocs are numerous in the rivers.  Approximately 495 species of bird: wattled crane, Denham’s bustard on the grasslands, Pel’s fishing owl and African finfoot along the rivers, and black-cheeked lovebirds in the far south.

Singing Indris

Madagascar Wildlife: Indri Lemur

I awoke dazed and confused. The shrill sound of sirens mixed with lilting whale song bounced across the forest canopy. What could possibly be going on? A wildlife emergency? The locals were tickled at my surprise. “It’s just indris calling to their mates and marking their territories at the start of the new day,” they laughed.

Later on I tramped the well worn paths of Perinet’s (Andasibe) montane forest in search of these unusual creatures – biggest of Madagascar’s lemurs. I found giant black and white teddy bears, sitting high in the treetops. They gazed down at me quizzically, and every so often rounded their mouths and played their siren songs. Somehow the sound just didn’t match the animal that looks like a cross between a panda bear and a large monkey. I sat listening for hours and recorded their calls, so friends at home could also be amazed.

I took photos of harmless, but huge, boa constrictors and bright red tree frogs for the same reason. And a Parsons chameleon tipping the scales at 2kg, which is a whole lot of chameleon. I’m sure I walked past dozens of leaf tailed geckos, because their camouflage is identical to tree bark – you simply can’t see them unless they blink.

But even if I missed a lot, there’s plenty to see in this park, not even mentioning the unusual birds – some in iridescent attire. Plus wild roses and trumpet lilies that grow along the waterways.

Dancing Sifakas

Further south in Berenty, the landscape looks like a science fiction movie set. The spiny forest is a mass of tall thorny cacti that look like waving cat’s tails. An array of lemurs live in the forest and have especially soft feet so the thorns can penetrate their soles without hurting too much. It makes perfect sense if you have to live in a thorn thicket.

Madagascar Wildlife: Berenty Sifika

But a completely unexpected and surreal sight greeted me early one morning. Still bleary eyed, I was convinced I was having Madagascan dreams. The creamy coloured sifakas were dancing a lemur tango. Really. If the trees are too far apart for sifakas to jump from one to another, they hit the ground and dance to get there. Their special feet are for grasping branches so they can’t walk. They have to dance, sideways, before leaping into the next tree.

The mobs of ringtailed lemurs that live there swagger along like outback cowboys, and to them dancing sifakas are everyday. But I’d never seen anything quite like it. I was captivated. Gobsmacked. And amused. For me it was the most quirky wildlife experience ever.

Chameleons giant and dwarf

Well, Madagascar has way more different species of chameleon than the rest of the world put together. And none of them are ordinary. Some are enormous – the size of a Jack Russell – and others are just as big as a finger joint. I held a Parson’s chameleon that filled my arms, and his tail hung down my leg. Some take camouflage to the extreme and resemble rusty armour plating, others impersonate rainbows. The variety is astounding.

To see a whole lot of different chameleons all together I went to Mandraka sanctuary, en route to Perinet. I held big and small, fed them flies and looked into their eyes. It was a truly moving experience, and I felt like I was touching antiquity. Chameleons, I think, know more than we believe.

Rainbow Bugs and Beetles

Madagascar's Wildlife: Giraffe beetle

If you think of a colour combination, there’s a bug or beetle to match it. And you won’t even have to look very far. For me, giraffe beetles took the prize. Red bodied average size beetles, they have a black crane like neck that makes them appear contrived – and not from this planet.

But there are hundreds, thousands, maybe more, that will have entomologists agog. Around every corner I was wide eyed at what I saw. And even if you don’t like wildlife much, Madagascar will change your mind. Stick insects, twig snakes, polka dot worms, giant moths and insect-eating plants. I was more than captivated. I was entranced by the weird and whimsical creatures that live there. It is a world apart. An island alone in the stream.