Reunion Volcano

General information
Reunion Island (otherwise known as La Réunion) was uninhabited until the mid-17th century, when it became a stopover on the burgeoning trade routes. The island was valued for its abundance of fresh water which was available near the coast. As a result, many navigators – Arabic, Portuguese and English – visited Reunion, which appeared on numerous maps under different names.
The French were first to inhabit Reunion. They used it as a prison, or rather a penal colony, for undesirables from Madagascar. The Kingdom of France then tried to penetrate the south of the Big Island, located 700km further west. In 1638, the small volcanic island became known as Bourbon, “possession of the king”. An engraved rock on the shore marked the occasion, and today Bourbon belongs to the community that calls itself the interesting name: La Possession!

Geography

Reunion scenes

Reunion is a small island that’s almost round in shape: a main road goes all the way around it, over 240 kilometres (150 miles). Born of two major volcanic events, the island takes the form of a mountain rising out of the ocean.
The first volcano occurred two-and-a-half million years ago. The magma gushing out of the crater spread around and into the ocean, making up what is today the high point of the island: the Piton des Neiges (snow peak), measuring 3 069 metres.
The second volcanic event occurred 380 000 years ago, about 30 kilometres to the southeast. A new volcanic mound formed and became attached to the first. This is how the Piton de la Fournaise (Furnace Peak), measuring 2,632m, was formed. It is still active today and regularly erupts, offering a spectacle all the more enchanting as you can safely approach lava flows and fountains.
Today, at the centre of the island are three gigantic basins: Mafate, Cilaos and Salazie.
Resulting from enormous collapses, these basins are open to the sea via narrow passages. They constitute one of the island’s major attractions. Surrounded by walking paths, they offer nature lovers a spectacle of wooded gorges and extraordinary waterfalls.
The coastal plains are narrow, the slopes rising rapidly. The coral has not yet created a barrier all around the island to form a vast lagoon, but in time it will. The coral forms a discontinuous reef of about 15 kilometres (10 miles) to the west and south of the island.
Beyond the smooth turquoise waters and white sandy shoreline, the reef rapidly gives way to the great depths, just as it happens near the majestic basalt cliffs.
Reunion’s wild, rugged terrain makes for fascinating exploration.

Reunion Festival

Climate
Reunion’s climate is tropical. Temperatures are affected by elevation. The average coastal temperature is between 64°F and 88°F (18°C to 31°C), with temperatures dropping in the interior. Humidity is high.
The island has two seasons: summer and winter. November to April is hot and rainy, while May to October is usually dry and cool and is the popular time for travel to Réunion. The cyclone season runs from mid-November to mid-April and the island is occasionally affected.
Like the rest of Reunion, Saint Denis has a tropical climate. Temperatures in the capital range between 70°F and 79°F (21°C to 26°C). November to April is hot and rainy, while the rest of the year is slightly cooler and drier. Humidity is high, particularly on the east coast. Saint-Denis is home to the Indian Ocean’s only tropical cyclone monitoring centre, although the island itself is only affected occasionally.
A blue and green island
Because of this steep terrain, human activities take place at the coast, where the following principal towns are situated: Saint Denis, the administrative centre; Saint Paul, the first “capital”; and Saint Pierre, the most southerly town. The beautiful Creole architecture that characterises these towns has been well preserved.
On the shore, at Saint Gilles and Saint Leu, as well as at l’Etang-Salé, a breeze blows all year long. The high basins and plains are typically rural and populated with well-kept cabins, fields hugging the slopes and pastures dotted with herds. Sugarcane forms a green belt around the island, only interrupted in the southeast by the imposing dome of the volcano.
The rugged terrain doesn’t leave much room for agriculture. The volcanic mountain, carpeted with vegetation and waterfalls, reigns supreme.
The original forest is still visible at Bébour-Bélouve, in the Plaine-des-Palmistes region, or at Mare-Longue, near Saint Philippe. A unique species of tree, the “Tamarin des Hauts”, grows in the high-lying woods.
Hence, Reunion offers a diverse landscape of lush vegetation and rocky terrain, as well as beaches, tropical heat and fresh mountain air.

Reunion Cirque Salazie

A celebration of nature
Reunion’s inhabitants value their island’s plant life. Whether you’re a botanist, an amateur gardener or a plant lover, Reunion’s flora will inspire you. In this tiny land lost in the middle of a vast ocean, indigenous plants abound on the coast and in the high-lying forests.
Man’s arrival in Reunion introduced alien plant species to the island. Today, for instance, palm trees from around the world stand alongside the native Bourbon latanier palm.
Reunion’s fauna consist of sea and air creatures. The elegant Tropicbird is the national bird; it nests in the cliffs near the ocean. The Papangue is a bird of prey that circles around the basins and ravines, while Java deer frolic about in the forests.
The ocean teems with life even close to the shore. The reef “slope” provides a habitat for both coral and the sea creatures and plants. Beyond the reef starts the kingdom of large migratory fish such Blue Marlin, Common Dolphinfish, Sailfish, Tuna, Barracuda and a host of fish that are caught for commercial purposes.
Language
With its history of explorers from various continents, the original inhabitants were hard-pressed to communicate. In order to understand one another, the then colony forged a vernacular language: Creole, derived from Old French and spiced up with words from Malagasy, Hindi and Tamali.
Although Creole is still spoken today, the official language is French, spoken by the vast majority of the population.
Religion and customs
Despite their historical attachment to France, Reunion’s citizens remain proud of their respective roots. Muslims, Catholics and Hindus live alongside one another and religion forms a large part of life for these islanders.
In the towns, the calls of the muezzin often answer the bells of the churches, while incense burns under the impassive eye of Buddha.
Some descendants of slaves still perpetuate the “Malagasy service”, a rite of homage to their ancestors.
Even though Catholicism is the most practised faith, the Hindu community gives the island its most remarkable customs. Hinduism shows its colours on the façades of the island’s many temples. In October and November, Deepavali, the “festival of lights”, draws thousands of faithful. In addition processions and spectacular “fire walking” are organised to the rhythm of an ancient calendar.
Maloya, a moving hybrid of blues music, originated from the island’s slaves, while Sega music reflects both European and African influences.
In Reunion, the expression of culture is a reflection of its inhabitants: everyone is free to commemorate and celebrate their customs.
Gastronomy as a Creole way of life
The island’s cuisine is as diverse as its population. No dish has kept its original flavour, thanks to influences from Bourbonese, French, Indian and Chinese recipes.
The two dishes every visitor should taste are Lamb Masala, an Indian recipe, and curry. Curry is the major local speciality. It takes the form of a meat, fish or shellfish stew prepared with garlic, onions, ginger, cloves, turmeric and other local spices. Curries are served with white rice and “grains” such as beans, broad beans or lentils, topped with a spicy condiment made from tomatoes, lemon and pistachios called rougail.
However, sausage rougail is a smoked sausage curry: nothing to do with the condiment. The same goes for smoked rougail, which is a smoked pork curry.

In the Creole culture, it is very important to eat well. Cooking remains an art, and secrets are passed from mother to daughter across the generations.
In the old days, rice was the main course. Although rice remains an integral part of  traditional cuisine, it is now the accompanying food that’s the focus.

Craftsmanship
Over the years, craftsmanship has increased in popularity, mainly due to increased tourism to the island. Besides the typical tourist souvenirs like T-shirts, books, food products like vanilla, DVDs and CDs, some items made in Reunion are quite rare. Examples of these include items made from tortoise-shell (jewellery, lacquered boxes and boxes with tortoise-shell inlay) and fish skin (shagreen). You will also find objects made from woven vegetable fibres.

In your suitcase
Bring light cotton clothes (preferably white). Trousers and long-sleeved shirts are recommended as this will reduce the area of skin exposed to mosquito bites.
Take a good pair of walking shoes.
Don’t forget your swimming costume, a hat and sunglasses.
Dress codes: casual by day, smart-casual by night.

Health
The water can be drunk everywhere.
There is no special danger with respect to fruit or vegetables in Reunion.
Bring anti-fever medicine based on Paracetemol.
Wear sunscreen with a high SPF and quality sunglasses.
Long clothing (especially at the start and end of the day) is essential, preferably in white as this colour tends to repel the virus-carrying Aedes mosquito.
Use repellants on exposed areas of the skin.

La Possession
At the foot of the North Cliff, ensconced between the communes of Saint Denis and Le Port, La Possession was once the place people had to pass through to get from the north to the south of the island.
Mountains and the ocean seem to surround La Possession in an impregnable grip. Today, thanks to better transport links, La Possession is home to most people working in the North and South of the island.
La Possession has hidden spots of beauty that explorers have discovered over time. They include Roche Vert-Bouteille, Dos-d’Ane, Roche-Ecrite, Mafate, and Ilet-à-Malheur.
In addition, visitors will find a beautiful wild coastline and other beaches at Grand Anse and Manapany, further south of the town. The town opens up to the mountain more gradually than at Saint-Denis. The rise to the green hinterland of Tampon, Entre-Deux or Hauts de Petite Ile is less spectacular.
The greatest appeal of the South lies in its wild coastline (from Grand Bois to Tremblet) and its forests (Saint Philippe, Mare-Longue, Basse-Vallée). The Heights are also breathtakingly beautiful, thanks to its flower-covered slopes that stretch from Tampon to Hauts de Saint Joseph.
Petite Ile is a charming village, so named for being the only small island around Reunion’s coast. Grand Anse is a wild beach different from those in the West. Saint Joseph is a typical farming village, while the entire Saint Philippe coastline takes the form of a huge cliff face pounded by the sea.
After the little town of Saint Philippe, the National Road crosses the Grand Brûlé, while has been characterised by successive lava flows since the beginning of time. There are no houses for about 30km.

Saint Denis
Saint Denis was the second town founded in Reunion, after Saint Paul. In the mid-17th century, the site of the future Saint Denis was just a wild corner where a fort was due to be built. Originally, there stood a few grass huts around a flagpole intended to guide seamen. Etienne Regnault, who brought the first 20 French people to the island in 1665, wanted to develop this northern region. Regnault did not have the time to carry out his plans. They were taken over by Mahé de Labourdonnais who, in 1735, made Saint Denis his Bourbon capital and administrative centre.
Saint Denis became a town in 1689. By the end of the 19th century, schools, roads, culture and industry were thriving here.

First impressions

Girl in Nosy Be

Madagascar is completely impossible to box and label. There are so many cultural variations, diverse landscapes, bizarre creatures and customs, it’s a world apart. The warm-hearted friendliness of thepeople struck me immediately on arrival – and lasted for the entire trip. In a place of extreme poverty, they are living proof that money doesn’t equate to happiness. I was constantly amazed at their open hearts and minds and the rich soulfulness of the place, awash in earth colours and rough built French-style homes of mud. And the coast is deliciously tropical with the scent of vanilla on the wind.

Mad culture

Black Lemur

In some areas on the mainland its taboo to hand an egg directly to another person, for girls to wash male underwear or to have funerals on certain days. Other tribes perform ancient bone-turning ceremonies, and one tribe creates erotic funery art to adorn their graves.

On Nosy Be there are sacred lakes where crocodiles live. I fed bananas to black lemurs on nearby Nosy Komba, because here they are revered and protected by locals. And the hand embroidered cutwork curtains I bought there still hang in my bedroom, because they make me smile and remember Nosy Be. I think Madagascar is a place that evokes immediate reaction – you intensely love it or hate it, but it’s impossible to be indifferent. Of all the places I have ever been, Madagascar has crept the deepest under my skin. Every time I visit, I’m already scheming and dreaming how I can return there.

Main attractions

Tsara Komba beach

Mount Passot at 300m is  the highest point on Nosy Be and is surrounded by eight deep-blue crater lakes, with names like Amparihimirahavavy and Antsahamanavaka. My trusty taxi driver Eddie Tsiadiso told me two of these lakes are sacred, and the spirits of the Sakalava and Antakara princes – local tribes in the area – live there. It is also fady or taboo for locals to fish in the sacred lakes, because crocodiles live there – though I never saw any myself. Tourists can’t walk the shores of the sacred lakes either, and they need to be dressed appropriately to visit the non-sacred ones: no smoking, hats, trousers, or any garment pulled over the feet can be worn. So I’m glad I wore a dress for the visit. Driving across Nosy Be reminded me of a primeval Eden, with bouganvilla, vanilla and ylang ylang flanking the road. From the main port Hell-ville, I caught a slow boat ride to Nosy Komba, or Lemur Island. An ancient chief proclaimed the black lemurs there sacred, so they are still protected and fed by locals. They’re so tame, I had them sitting on my shoulders in anticipation of being fed. Lokobe Reserve also protects the black lemur, along with boa constrictors and plenty of chameleons and birds.

Where to stay

There are lots of hotel options on Nosy Be, which means Big Island. Some are more romantic or family orientated than others, so it depends entirely on your needs. I chose Nosy Be Hotel and Amarina Beach to experience different aspects and areas of the island. Getting to Nosy Be, just north west of the mainland, is also easy. Air Madagascar flies there daily and there are even some direct flights from Europe – so it’s not as remote as it feels.

Dining out

Madagascar

Nosy Be map

All the hotels have restaurants that serve a combination menu of western and local dishes. This is the safe option. I tried a few local spots, but often what arrived in front of me was not what I anticipated. Probably because I couldn’t read the menu too accurately. Much is written in Malagasy, which is not quite French and further from English.

In a nutshell

Madagascar will stretch your mind and touch your soul, as it did mine. It’s a place of unspeakable beauty and quirkiness, so it’s important to go with an open mind and a sense of humour. It’s a place that changed me forever, and I love the people and places more each time I visit.

Personal highlight

Feeding the monkey-cat-like lemurs was wow, as was seeing the authentic way locals live. Madagascar is a lesson in living in the now.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Madagascar:

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Nosy Be hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/beach-holidays-nosy-be.html

Nosy Be excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1296/madagascar-n.html

2. Reunion – Natural Theatre

First Impressions

St Denis Réunion Island

How could a tiny island speck in the middle of the Indian Ocean be so impossibly First World? Arriving in Reunion’s capital – St Denis – was like expecting pancakes and being served crème brule. I suspect the island may have drifted off course from the French Riviera; sparkling white, French flair buildings cling to the volcanic mountainside, and exotic tropical gardens weaving in between. Somehow I anticipated laid-back island-style and no cellphone signal, shabby chic perhaps, but definitely not spiffy French and smooth tar roads.

For me, Reunion’s quirkiest culture definitely lives in the villages and rugged interior. It’s a place of such stark contrasts and paradoxes, I have to keep pinching myself. The people are split into French and Creole, and here that translates into Catholic and Voodoo. Yes, Voodoo is alive and well in Reunion and the plentiful red roadside shrines are its beacons. Most are adorned with madonnas, candles and incense, although some madonnas acquired curses along the way and had their heads snapped off to show it. I keep my nose clean and focus on natural attractions instead. The Black Madonna who blesses children and the Madonna with Parasole who protects a town from lava flows are really interesting stories though, and not linked too closely to Voodoo.

Main Attractions

Air Austral flies direct to Reunion, so it’s easy to get there. I hired a car and drove the island, keeping to the right and sometimes getting confused in traffic circles. It’s generally easy driving, although next time I’ll choose an automatic. A gleaming asphalt road runs all the way round the island hugging the coastline. Because Reunion is so volcanic, this is the flattest area to build the road. And it took a while for me to realize that this is also the reason the graveyards all have sea views. Some infamous pirates like Le Buse still rest here peacefully. From the air I imagine Reunion looks like a giant chocolate muffin with three holes poked in it. These three volcanic ‘cirques’ are all totally different but equally bizarre. Cirque Mafate still lives in the Middle Ages and is only accessible on foot. Many of the inhabitants, I believe, have never seen cars, certainly never televisions or cellphones. It’s completely lost in time, and I found it refreshing to know there are still places like this in 2009. Cirque Cilaos is the one trekkers frequent. I needed a stiff vanilla rum after negotiating the 100 hairpin bends to get there. But the surrounding rocks look like witches hats and tangled plants hang from them, making the trip enchanting. Cirque Salazie was my personal favourite. Locals told me there are 100 waterfalls in the cirque, but you can’t see them all simultaneously. What I know personally is that one waterfall splashes directly onto the main road into Salazie, so you get a carwash en route. Definitely the most thrilling site must be Piton de la Fournaise in the south east, when you can get close; this moody volcano blew her top the day I arrived in Reunion, so the whole area was shrouded in smoke and ash, cordoned off until she calmed down.

The island is a haven for vulcanologists and there is even a Volcano Museum to put you properly in the picture.

Where to stay

Volcano1 Réunion Island

The range and diversity of accommodation across the island ensures there’s something for everyone. I personally enjoy the middle of the road little beach villas, but staying in a period French B&B in a room surrounded by mirrors was quite quirky too. Some of the bottom of the pile places I found a little basic, but in some remote areas there’s not much choice. Because Reunion is ideal for a road trip, you seldom sleep in a place for more than a night anyway – unless you choose the relaxed beach holiday option.

Dining Out

Reunion map

Ah, Creole food has got to be the finest. Hot and flavoursome. The traditional curry, or cari to locals, is meat or chicken in a tomato sauce infused with garlic, ginger, chilli and thyme. It cleared my sinuses and gave me an endorphin rush for free. French food is plentiful too, I always choose the most traditional food if I can. Oh, and all meals should be washed down with local rum. It comes in so many flavours. In a Nutshell How I wish mainland Africa would take a feather from Reunion. It’s the place of the starkest contrasts and cultures, beliefs and landscapes, but it works like a smooth running machine because everyone minds their own business. If you are looking for the truly extreme and unusual, you’ll find it here. Reunion is for the whole family and the energetic and adventure seekers. Paragliding, surfing, abseiling, trekking, scuba diving – there’re all there.

Personal Highlight

Walking on a pitch black volcanic beach really was surreal for me. Black sand, black rocks and a turquoise Indian Ocean washing over it. That was my earthly Apocolyptic moment. And seeing the Miracle Church in Piton St Rose. The trusty priest stood at the church doors facing a fiery lava flow. When it reached the church steps, the lava split, went round the sides of the church and continued on to the sea. The entire town was incinerated but the church remained untouched, and the solid rock that still encircles the church is clear evidence of the event.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Reunion:

Reunion http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/holidays.html

Reunion self-drive packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/self-drive-packages.html

Reunion beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/beach-holidays.html

Reunion hiking http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/hiking-holidays.html

3. Ethiopia, Lake Tana – the Blue Nile beginning

First impressions

A thread of antiquity runs through the whole of Ethiopia. Wherever you go there is a mix of organic life and very ancient ways of living and being. I never saw gloss or polish, or any hint of veneer – and that is so refreshing. What you see is what you get. The people are elegant and regal, a little stoic but always willing to tell you about their unusual land. I like that, nobody is in your face and there’s no pretence. I believe the whole country should really be a world heritage site for all the treasures it has, many of which remain unspoken and hidden from public eyes. The monastery islands in Lake Tana are just one example.

Ethi culture

deeply rooted christianity

Virtually the whole nation of 74 million practices Orthodox Christianity as their religion. To me as an outsider it seemed a puzzling mix of all the great world religions brewed together and garnished with Ethiopian flair. There are patron saints and Egyptian martyrs, Christian and Jewish figures and a hint of Buddism in the way the people live. What I found remarkable, is that religion is actually lived every day, churches are permanently open and frequented. Religion permeates every aspect of life – and everywhere you go. The other religion in Ethiopia is coffee. Its the birthplace of the brew and elaborate ceremonies are performed when its served. Burning incense and eating popcorn are part of proceedings. I sat quietly and waited to be served, not wanting to fiddle with decorum. If you like truly unusual places, this is it. Ethiopia follows a 12 hour clock, they have 70 languages, their own Amharic alphabet that looks like dancing figures, new year is in September, and their year is 13 months long. So right now it’s 2001 there.

Main attractions

The cool river

Lalibela is well known for its dozens of rock hewn churches, carved from solid rock below ground level. I thought this was it when it comes to unusual churches, but when I arrived in Baha Dar there was lots more to discover. I took a boat trip across the milky turquoise waters of Lake Tana, because I simply wanted to ride across the source of the Blue Nile. Then, 45 minutes later, the skipper of Fanta pulled up on a tiny lake island and said I could ‘see the church if I want’. Right in the middle of this tiny island in the middle of this vast lake was a perfectly round church, elaborately adorned with traditional painting. In the very middle behind red velvet drapes was the holy of holies. ‘No you can’t look inside,’ I was told by the priest, after I removed my shoes. The priest dressed in bright yellow was awaiting his pilgrims. Cross in hand he waited to bless them, so I asked for a blessing too and was tapped lightly on the head. Other islands in Lake Tana house monasteries that only permit male or only female visitors, depending on the monastery’s inclination. And there are many more islands with quaint and quirky churches too. The locals all know where to find them.

Where to stay

Ethiopian Airlines flies between Johannesburg and Addis Ababa daily, and then to main towns in Ethiopia – Baha Dar included. Accommodation outside the capital is all quite basic and mostly clean. You’ll easily find a bed and a bathroom, though there isn’t always hot water – and sometimes there is no water at all. But the reception desk will tell you if there are ‘waterless hours’. I always  asked, just to be sure.

Dining out

honesty of the people

Hotels serve almost exclusively what they consider Western food to be – everything is deep fried. I asked for a plain banana, and it was also proudly served ‘deep fried’. The waiter frowned in disbelief when I asked for a replacement – with the skin on. Local food takes an open mind to enjoy. Injira (a grey, tef based pancake that resembles a facecloth) is usually served with an assortment of ‘blow your head off’ hot sauces, sometimes also with chopped cabbage and chips. In smarter eateries, finely chopped meat in fiery sauce may also accompany the injira. Breakfast omelettes also come with a good dose of chilli, unless you request them plain. I learnt quickly that everything should be ordered ‘plain’, even though I love hot food. Ethiopian ‘hot’ is something quite special.

In a nutshell

Ethiopia map

The honesty and realness of the place grabbed me, and the way people live just as their ancestors did. Frequenting the same churches, riding in Egyptian style papyrus boats and against a backdrop of extreme hardship and poverty. Ethiopia taught me a lesson in family values and the importance of community, because that counts more than possessions and grandeur.

Personal highlight

I thoroughly appreciated the gentle pace of life and the proud grittiness of the people. It ticked me that tourist boats on Lake Tana have a dedicated skipper and a busy baler, who ensures the water stays mostly in the lake.

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Historical Packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/historical-and-cultural-holidays.html

Ethiopia hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/hotels.html

4. Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago- Islands in the stream

First impressions

Paradise

This is where watercolours and tales of Robinson Crusoe were born. From the plane window, swirls of turquoise lay below me with tiny verdant islands sprinkled into the middle distance. The Quirimbas look like emeralds embedded on aquamarine in an opulent necklace. When I landed on Medjumbe, the ‘welcome to paradise’ from staff wasn’t tongue in cheek either – I was actually thinking ‘paradise found’. This island, off the coast of Mozambique near the border with Tanzania, is the quintessential tropical paradise, and there are quite a few more in the archipelago: Matemo and Ibo for starters. But wherever you go in the Quirimbas, time stands still so watches and even calendars are redundant. Days are governed by the tides, when you can fish and dive and swim. I could certainly live like this.

Moz culture

Ibo Island Lodge evening dinner

The people of Mozambique are an evocative mix with roots in Portugal and Africa, the best of both. It’s mirrored in the spectacular seafood and caipirinha cocktails, and chill and cashews are always close at hand. For me, this is the ultimate menu. And being able to dip in the ocean whenever you please made me feel really alive. I felt invigorated and energized and omnipotent with natural rhythm ruling the days.

Main attractions

The old lighthouse on Medjumbe adds atmosphere to the splendour that surrounds you, and having the whole island as your private playground made me feel like child again – footloose and free. Matemo’s working village near the lodge gave me powerful insights into local life in Mozambique, and I brought home a piece of traditional Maluane indigo cloth to remember that feeling of absolute freedom. My trip to Ibo transported me to a distant age of Portuguese colonialism and I could easily imagine the opulent life once lived there. Almost every male and landmark here is named João, for the island’s patron saint, and I bought a piece of filigree jewelry to remember the ancient ways of Ibo. Traditional silversmiths in the old fort melt down old coins and fashion intricate lacy pieces from the metal, all by hand. I think patience lives here too. All these islands also offer boating and fishing trips and scuba diving on pristine coral reefs amidst rainbows of fish. There’s windsurfing and kayaking and anything else you can imagine doing in or on the sea. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you love sun, sand and sea.

Where to stay

Ibo Island Lodge lazy afternoon

Ibo Island Lodge is on the ocean’s edge and is a converted manor house with swinging couches on the verandah and four poster beds in the rooms. I loved the place’s simplicity and unexpected splashes of opulence. They also serve excellent crab dinners. On Matemo there is only one lodge also overlooking the sea – and it welcomes the whole family. Individual palm thatched suites are tucked between beach palm trees, and inside is decadent East African décor. Matemo has a touch of Arabia, reflecting the owner’s roots. Medjumbe is a private island catering for couples, so there’s just the one intimate lodge with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. I spent hours in my private pool with just sea sand between me and the ocean. In the evenings I lazed in my hammock and watched the light change to dark and stars. It was like being suspended in time and space. The Quirimbas are quite remote, but getting there is easy on LAM and Airlink. There are regular flights from Johannesburg to Pemba and then CFA charter flights onto the islands.

Dining out

On the Quirimbas you dine in. Each lodge has its own restaurant serving a range of seafood and other fresh fare. I always choose seafood, so by the time I left crayfish, crab, prawns, calamari and all the local fish had been tasted and ticked. It is truly divine dining.

In a nutshell

Mozambique map

If you want to forget the world exists, that trouble and chaos are possible and traffic jams ruin your days, the Quirimbas will make this all a distant memory. I imagine these postcard perfect islands gently wash out mind and soul for all who visit them. They did for me, and I left inspired and ready to take on the world.

Personal highlight

Wafting along in a traditional dhow with local fishermen, the white sail flapping overhead and the rough carved boat cutting through the warm water, that was my moment of heaven on earth. I could breathe, breathe, breathe and I could feel fresh energy filtering through me.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Mozambique:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/holidays.html

Quirimbas: Ibo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Matemo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Medjumbe http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique.html

Vamizi  http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-2.html

Mozambique all beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/beach-holidays.html

5. Zanzibar – Dusted with Spice

First impressions

I fastened my seatbelt to land in Zanzibar, prepared to be disappointed. From the air, rusty red tin roofs wedged between palm trees welcomed me, and I could only imagine that a shanty town lay beneath. But not. Zanzibar, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, is intoxicating. Heady, hot and humid, here it translates to sultry and balmy. Sprinkled with the spices of India and the vibrancy of Arabia.

Zanzi culture

Stone Town Alley

The alleyways of Stonetown, I imagine, are just the same as they were a century ago. They’ve worn smooth from a million feet and tiny hole in the wall shops sell all the things tourists and locals lust for. Spices and exotic oils, the intricate geometric wood carvings Zanzibar is known for, and colourful patterned fabrics or khangas – always in two pieces: one for the waist and the other to cover the head in the Muslim way. I had no idea the sweet faced Swahili people had adopted the ways of Allah so closely. Zanzibar used to have the ring of Timbuktu, way off the beaten track. But today it’s well visited by travellers like me, who enjoy places that assault your senses with smells and tastes and sights that echo a melting pot of origins. I think that every nation who ever built a boat has in some way left a footprint on this heady little island. You can taste it in the food and see it in the architecture.

Main attractions

Matemwe bungalow

Nowadays Zanzibar is easy to get to, with a few direct flight options from South Africa – including 1Time. And it’s nice and compact, so you can drive across the island in an hour, and from top to bottom in just a little longer. But the roads are not smooth highways. I wedged into a taxi – between a smooth facedSwahil woman in all black and a spacey Rastafarian – to go swimming with dolphins on the east coast. There are plenty of snorkeling and diving places too. On the way back, red colobus monkeys peeped from their treetops as the minibus

crossed the Jozani Forest. On Prison Island I fed wild spinach to giant hundred year old Aldabra tortoises and lay on the deserted beach in the sun. Best of all was sailing on a traditional wooden dhow with sackcloth sails to get there. The skipper’s name was Captain Morgan.

Where to stay

Right on the beachfront of Stonetown, is the best place to stay because it’s perfectly central and so easy to wander the labyrinth of alleyways of the surrounding old quarter. Getting lost and found in the tangle of winding streets is the real charm of the place but I soon learnt my way around. Feeling safe encourages leisurely wandering, and a willing soul will always guide you back if you need it.

Dining out

Zanzibar map

In the evenings, the Foradhani market comes alive and I walked through a mesh of  mopeds and bicycles to buy fresh fish and octopus kebabs for supper – cooked over open coals with the Indian Ocean

as backdrop. All the locals dine there at night, walking, eating and chatting as they go. For desert I chewed sugar cane with the locals. I can still taste it in my mind.

In a nutshell

I imagine Zanzibar must be the African Jamaica – relaxed and laid back with reggae wafting on the wind. Virtually everyone you pass greets you with “Jambo, habari?” or “Hello, how are you?” No answer is required, just a smile. This is without doubt the friendliest place I’ve ever been; the warm heart of Africa. How I hope it never changes.

Personal highlight

Ambling the tangle of alleyways in Stonetown and chatting to the locals reminded me what it means to live authentically and in natural rhythm. I realized also that you can’t truly get lost here, because all roads eventually lead home.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Zanzibar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/holiday.html

Zanzibar beach http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/beach-holidays.html

Zanzibar Stone Town http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/stone-town-hotels.html

Excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/day-excursions.html

Reunion Island

Reunion is a small island that is nearly round: a main road goes all the way round in 240 kilometres (150 miles). It’s a mountain rising out of the ocean, born of two major volcanic events.

The first took place two and a half million years ago. The magma gushing out of the crater then spread around and into the ocean, making up what is today the high point of the island: the Piton des Neiges (Snow peak) (3,069 metres).

The second volcanic event occurred 380,000 years ago, about 30 kilometres to the southeast. A new volcanic mound formed and became attached to the first. This is how the Piton de la Fournaise (Furnace Peak) (2,632 m) was formed. It is still active today and regularly erupts, offering a spectacle all the more enchanting as you can safely approach lava flows and fountains.

Today, at the centre of the island are three gigantic basins: Mafate, Cilaos, and Salazie. Resulting from enormous collapses, they are open to the sea via narrow passages. These basins constitute one of the island’s major attractions. Surrounded by walking paths, they offer nature lovers a spectacle of wooded gorges and extraordinary waterfalls.

Reunion Island

The coastal plains are narrow, the slopes rising rapidly. The coral has not yet had the time to create a barrier all around the island and form a vast lagoon. The coral forms a discontinuous reef of about 15 kilometres (10 miles) to the west and south of the island.

Beyond the magnificent smooth turquoise waters bordered with white sand the reef, like before the majestic basalt cliffs, rapidly gives way to the great depths. Reunion has wild and rugged terrain that the weather has not yet softened, but makes a part of its richness.

For emergencies please call +27 82 785 8551.

Reunion Hiking

This itinerary is only for experienced hikers, no children under 8 years and no single hikers. This tour is not accompanied by a guide.

Some hotels have a Christmas and New Year supplement which is not included in any prices quoted.

Itinerary Day 1: Johannesburg – St Denis
Flight from Johannesburg to Saint Denis, the capital of Reunion. Meet and greet and transfer to Saint Gilles Les. Bains. Overnight stay at the Alamanda Hotel (B&B).

Day 2: St Denis – Salazie
Buy food supplies. Transfer to the east coast of the island and visit the cirque of Salazie, famous for its magnificent waterfalls. (Your main baggage stays in Saint Gilles Les Bains). Overnight stay at the Hotel Relais des Cimes (B&B).

Day 3: Hellburg – Belouve
Early breakfast and hike from Hellburg up to the Belouve forest (primary forest). The hike will take about 2 1/2 hours and is 4.8 km long. (Elevation +- 500m). Overnight stay in the mountain hut (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

Day 4: Belouve to Caverne Dufour
Hiking from Belouve to Caverne Dufour. This hike will take approximate 6 1/2 hours and is 10 km long. (Elevation +- 980m). Dinner and overnight at the hut Caverne Dufour (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

Day 5: Piton des Neiges – Cilaos
Hiking from Hut Piton des Neiges to Cilaos. This hike will take about 6 1/2 hours and is 16.8 km long. (Elevation +- 591-1860m). Overnight stay at the Hotel Le Vieux Cep (B&B).

Day 6: Cilaos
Day at leisure in Cilaos. Buy food supplies. There are thermal baths in Cilaos. Overnight stay at the Hotel Le Vieux Cep (B&B).

Day 7: Cilaos – Marla
Hike from Cilaos to Marla, this hike takes about 7 hours and is 7 km long. (Elevation +1320 / – 912m). Overnight stay at the hut Marla (dinner, bed and breakfast).

Day 8: Marla – Roche Plateau
Hiking from Marla to Roche Plate, this will take about 5 1/2 hours and the length of the hike is 11.7 km (Elevation 720 / 200m). Overnight stay at the hut Roche Plate (dinner, bed and breakfast).

Day 9: Roche Plateau – Maido
Hiking from Roche Plateau to Maido, this will take about 5 hours and the length of the hike is 7.5 km. (Elevation +1000m). In the later afternoon transfer to Saint Gilles Les Bains where you will find the luggage you left behind. Overnight stay at the Hotel Allamanda (B&B).

Day 10: St Gilles les Baines
Day at leisure in Saint Gilles Les Bains. Overnight stay at the Alamanda Hotel (B&B).

Day 11: St Gilles les Baines
Day at leisure in Saint Gilles Les Bains. Overnight stay at the Alamanda Hotel (B&B).

Day 12: Self-drive – Pas de Bellecombe
Delivery of car rental to the Hotel and self-drive to the Pas de Bellecombe. Overnight stay at the Volcano Hut (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

Day 13: Crater Hike
Hiking around the crater. Duration is about 5 hours and the length of the hike is 4.8 km. (Elevation -700 / + 700m). Overnight stay at the Hotel Geraniums (B&B).

Day 14: Self-drive to St Denis
Self-drive to Saint Denis. Overnight stay at the Hotel Domaine des Jamroses in La Montagne overlooking the city of Saint Denis.

Day 15: Outbound

Drive to the airport and drop off the car. Flight out.

Prices include
International flights (departure from Johannesburg), hotel accommodation for 9 nights bed and breakfast, 5 nights mountain huts (dormitories) dinner, bed and breakfast, car hire (category A) for 4 days with unlimited mileage and insurance, meet and greet on day of arrival and airport-hotel airport-Saint Gilles, Saint Gilles – Hellburg and Maido – Saint Gilles, detailed documentation and IGN Hiking map.

Not included
Visa fee, meals not indicated, drinks, tips, personal expenses, fuel, airport car parking tax, travel insurance, airport taxes, hotel taxes (+/- EUR 1/day/person).

Car insurance includes
CDW (Collision Damage Waiver): damage to the car, fire and glass breaking
TPC (Theft Protection Coverage): Theft of car and damage to car
PAI (Personal Accident insurance): covers all passengers in the car within seating capacity; technical assistance.

Car insurance does not cover

Inside damages, damages to the wheels and tyres, personal belongings in the car, loss or theft of equipment (radio, windscreen wipers, antenna, wheel rims), NWR (Non-Waiverable Responsibility). A credit card imprint for NWR is required, this amount will be debited in case of a problem with the car and reimbursed if the car rental company’s insurance states that the hirer is not responsible for the charges.

Below is an approximate price per person sharing (October 2009)

±Euro1725

more details