Unusual Destinations Blog

If you’re a wildlife enthusiast and have a ‘bucket list’ of things to see and do before you die, Africa has plenty to offer. In no particular order, here are five wildlife highlights that just have to be seen to be believed.

Dancing Sifakas – Berenty, Madagascar

Madagascar: Dancing Verreaux

Seeing these quirky creatures dance between the trees will give you a full belly laugh, or possibly stun you into bemused silence. Sifakas dancing are truly the most bizarre site I have ever seen; just thinking of it makes me laugh.

Because sifakas’ feet are designed for grasping trees, they can’t walk on flat ground. But sometimes the trees they feed in are too far apart for them to jump, which is their usual practice – so they have to dance across the flat ground between them. It’s a kind of sifaka tango.

These Verreaux’s Sifakas have velvety cream coats and jet black faces with a permanently bemused look on them. Their beady brown eyes always look startled and alert, so just looking at their quizzical faces raises a laugh. Then when they side step, pirouette and continue on their dance, well, it’s just side splitting. They spend as little time as possible on the ground, so the dance is fast, followed by a quick jump onto a tree branch where they carry on feeding – as if nothing ever happened.

Berenty in the south of Madagascar is the easiest place to see the dance. Of course they don’t dance on cue, so you may need to be patient and wait a while. But it will be absolutely worth it.

The Annual Wildebeest Migration – Serengeti, Tanzania

Tanzania: Serengeti Migration

The photographs can never tell the story, and while film footage gives a better idea of the scale of the migration, there are not really words to explain being surrounded by millions of moaning wildebeest mingling with zebra.

It’s like looking at an ant colony on a macro scale. As far as you can see, horizon to horizon, there is nothing but wildebeest. They stand around grunting for hours on end, chase each other playfully and generally are just being wildebeest. Then, when the chief zebra advises the head wildebeest it’s time to move, they all start trotting – pied piper style.

I was in a Land Rover in the middle of the herd, and the sound of a few million hooves on sand is like deafening thunder rolling past. The entire herd seems to think with a single mind, called by the literal green grass on the other side of the Mara River in Kenya.

They run and rest all the way from Serengeti to the Masai Mara, crossing first the Grumeti then the Mara rivers. They leap in faith into the rivers, and by the end of the migration all the crocodiles have full bellies. Some of these crocodiles only eat once a year during the migration, yet they are still the biggest Nile crocodiles in all of Africa.

For me, the migration was overwhelming, breathtaking and a clear demonstration of the triumph of animal instinct and natural selection. During June and July every year, the wildebeest start heading north to Kenya, though the exact dates of departure depend entirely on the chief wildebeest and his zebra advisor.

Endangered Mountain Gorillas – Rwanda

Rwanda: Endangered Mountain Gorilla

Staring into the chocolate brown eyes of a mountain gorilla is like looking into your own soul. There’s a mutual recognition that we are close cousins indeed, maybe too close since mountain gorillas easily contract human diseases. This is why nobody who is ill with a cold or any other condition may trek for gorillas, and why a healthy seven metre distance must be maintained at all times from the gorilla group. If the gorillas move closer, you move back. No food may be eaten while with the gorillas either.

There’s just an hour to spend with them, that’s what’s allowed, but it is an intense hour. I found myself pondering the origin of our species and how all life is really interlinked. How we could be so similar yet so different, and how we presume humans are so superior. I felt I needed to apologise to the gorillas for human behaviour.

I saw the Sabinyo group, but there are a handful of groups habituated to humans. Then there are additional study groups that only researchers from the Karisoke Research Institute have access to. Still, every time a gorilla is born, it’s named and celebrated. And every time one is lost to the bush meat or exotic pet trade, there is despair because there are so few. Just about 250 remain on earth. And since mountain gorillas don’t survive in captivity, supporting their conservation by seeing them in the wild is their only real hope.

Africa’s only Wolf – Ethiopia

They’re elusive and beautiful and live in tiny pockets across Ethiopia, so seeing Africa’s only true wolf gliding across a mountain top is spectacular. Uniquely, Ethiopian wolves do not require an early morning wake-up call to see them. They only get going when the sun is up and the high altitude plateau they live on warms up a bit. As it gets warmer the giant mole rats come out, and so do the wolves – to catch one for breakfast.

Ethiopia: Ethiopian Wolf

In their habitat in the Bale Mountains National Park, the air is raspingly thin, so I was pleased that no physical effort was needed to see them. I drove up onto the 4 000m plateau in a Landcruiser, much like a game drive. After just a half hour of driving I spotted my first lone wolf, its burnt orange coat swiftly sailing across the scubby grey bushes. Then a pounce and he had his first mole rat, which he carried off to enjoy in peace.

It’s a 400km, full day, uber-bumpy drive to get from Addis Ababa to Goba near the base of the Sanetti Plateau, for a wolf visit the following morning. Then it’s a full day’s drive back again. But seeing these highly endangered creatures was well worth the effort. Just to see a wolf in Africa is a unique experience, and a slightly bizarre I thought.

Swimming with Dolphins – Zanzibar

Somehow swimming with dolphins perfectly complements the romance of Zanzibar. Swimming with sharks there just wouldn’t hold the same appeal.

Zanzibar: Kizimkazi dolphins swimming

I went out from Kizimkazi on the east coast, on a boat skippered by a Rastafarian. Boats are basic, possibly with a sunshade, but don’t expect cocktails or canapés on board. The skipper cruised around the dolphin territory until he spotted one, then I baled overboard with mask and snorkel issued, and swam. A helping hand will pull you back onto the boat again.

Of course, it’s entirely the choice of the dolphins if they want to hang around and play. Sometimes they do, sometimes they are just passing through. But I now know why dolphin therapy is successful and can even assist in curing illness. What tranquil, exquisite animals they are, with personalities of their own and a seemingly deep understanding of the human condition. Even if you just have two minutes in the water with them as they pass by, it’s an experience I will never forget.

First impressions

I had no idea what to expect in Rwanda, but a lush, peaceful, clean country filled with gentle, regal people was definitely not on my idea list at all. And that is exactly what I found. Now I know why Rwanda is called ‘Africa’s Switzerland’. Sure, it’s right on the equator and there are banana trees and terraces of vegetables, which are certainly not Swiss, but the landscape is magnificently beautiful and deep green. The little towns and villages are clean and well tended and the rural mud-brick homes even have handmade terracotta tiled roofs. Quite unexpectedly, the road network is excellent and tarred too. But the biggest surprise was the extensive cell phone coverage throughout the country. Rwanda is one pleasant surprise after another, all in the tiniest, most misunderstood country in Africa.

Rwandan culture

Everyone who has a television knows that Rwanda’s two main tribes are the Tutsi and the Hutus. They fought each other to the death nearly two decades ago, with the Tutsi suffering most, but I was again surprised and quite overwhelmed how they now live together harmoniously and deeply respect each others cultures. Most of the rural folk are Hutus and the tall, elegant, refined Tutsis live mostly in towns and villages. But everywhere I went I saw clearly that today there are only Rwandans, tribes are not distinguished and any prejudices are abhorred. Kinyarwanda and French are spoken throughout, along with English and Swahili.

Market girl

Main attractions

Of course the highly endangered mountain gorillas are the best known drawcard to Rwanda, and trekking in the soaring Virunga mountains to see them is a life changing experience. While with the gorillas, I kept wondering who was watching who, since gorillas share 97% of our DNA. They could very well be ‘human viewing’ and be tickled at the lengths humans go to, to see them munching wild celery and romping on the mountain side.

Seeing the Karisoke Research Institute set up by Dian Fossey is also a must do. If you have seen Gorillas in the Mist, you will be walking in Dian’s footsteps all the time you are in the Virungas. It gave me a little chill, but a very pleasant one, and I felt like I was part of the iconic movie for a while.

Nyungwe Forest is a primeval tropical rainforest that is a true African Eden. Think of 275 different bird species – including paradise monarchs flitting through the forest canopy – providing amusement for the 500 wild chimpanzees that live there. The chimps are quite hard to find in their extensive habitat, and I didn’t see any – though I tried hard – but they are there for sure, along with black and white clown-like colobus monkeys and 11 other different primate species. There are also 120 different butterflies, 200 orchid species and 75 species of mammal in this magnificent forest.

Nyungwe Rain forest

Another surprise for me was Lake Kivu, a huge freshwater lake in the west that produces fine eating tilapia fish and is a holiday playground for locals. Seeing the traditional fishing methods was also quite comical. From their traditional boats, fishermen slap the water with long sticks, because they say it attracts the fish to the surface. To be honest, if I was a fish, I’d be scared to greater depths.

But just driving through Rwanda is in itself inspiring. To see how organically and peacefully the people live. Everyone is always busy, and I am completely convinced there are no lazy Rwandans. I also never saw one piece of plastic or litter in the countryside, which was a first for Africa. Some say it’s a sign of true poverty, that every piece of litter is burnt for fuel; I believe it’s the pride Rwandans take in their beautiful country.

Tea pickers

Where to stay

There are swish hotels in the capital Kigali and on the languid Lake Kivu – five stars if you wish. In smaller towns there is always somewhere clean and hospitable to stay and the choice is increasing all the time. Basic accommodation in Rwanda is always pleasant, always clean, and the friendliness of the people makes up for not having Egyptian cotton sheets. For me, it was all part of the authentic experience of Rwanda – simple and real.

Lake Kivu

Dining out

In Kigali there are plenty of options, with great restaurants in the tourist hotels and many other local ones to try out. In smaller towns, I thoroughly enjoyed eating out with the locals in tiny establishments that always served a good plate of chicken and fresh vegetables. Along Lake Kivu, outdoor restaurants serve the fine fish from the lake – best grilled on an open fire. It’s so fresh you expect it to flap around your plate.

In a nutshell

Rwanda is astoundingly beautiful, peaceful and safe. It’s a truly extraordinary country with a lot to teach the rest of Africa about treasuring what you have – as they do their mountain gorillas, and forgiving past mistakes. The people are exemplary, serene, beautiful and utterly dignified. It’s an inspiring country everywhere you go

Farm terraces — Photo Credit: Heinrich van den Berg

Personal highlight

Seeing just how fast Rwandans have rebuilt their morale and their country after the genocide of 1994 – when a million people died in 100 days. Their fortitude, resilience and pride in their heritage are breathtaking. Everyone I spoke to was positive and energized, and they are all emphatic that, while they will never forget the past, they will never again allow such atrocities to happen again – and they believe the future is bright. I do too, because they live their words.

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Gorillas & Kigali: 3 nights

Rwanda is a sultry land of inland lakes, rain forests and rolling hills.It is well-knownfor its opportunities to trek Mountain Gorillas, which are found in the Volcanoes National Park (Parc National des Volcans). This park lies on the border of Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC). Mountain Gorillas of which there are estimated to be 650 extant individuals of which about 350 are in Rwanda – making the Ginsenyi area home to the highest concentration of mountain gorillas in their natural habitat.

Itinerary: 3 nights

Day 1: Fly to Kigali, the lively Rwanda capital. At the airport our English-speaking agents will meet and assist you with formalities. Transfer to the Kigali Serena Hotel (B&B).

Day 2: Early transfer by private car to the Volcanoes National Park (about 90 minutes drive from Kigali). The Volcanoes Park is currently the best place anywhere in Africa to go gorilla tracking, while also supporting a number of other localised mammal, bird and plant species. This 13 000 hectare national park protects the Rwanda sector of the Virunga Mountains, a range of six extinct and three active volcanoes which straddle the border with Uganda and the DRC. Between 2,500 and 3,500m, where an average annual rainfall of 2,000mm is typical, the bamboo forest is interspersed with alpine grassland and marsh; a landscape dominated by other worldly giant lobelia and senecio plants. Wear thick trousers, long-sleeved shirts to protect one from vicious nettles. Pack warm clothes, raincoat and hiking boots. Approximately 300 mountain gorillas exist in the Volcanoes Park. Tourists are permitted to spend no longer than one hour with the gorillas, and it is forbidden to eat or smoke in their presence. Lunch, dinner and overnight at the Gorilla Mountain View Lodge.

Day 3: Another opportunity, perhaps, for a second visit to the Gorillas (optional, so not included in the  tour price). In Rwanda there areseven habituated gorilla groups that can be viewed by tourists. Each group can be visited by a maximum of 8 people per day. Alternatively visit the famous Dian Fossey’s tomb and the Karisoke Gorillas research centre (extra payment of USD 50) or just visit the village, markets and local communities. Lunch is served at the lodge before your return drive to Kigali. Overnight stay at the Kigali Serena Hotel (B&B and lunch).

Day 4: If time allows, visit the Gisozi Genocide Memorial. Transfer to the airport and flight out.

Prices include
International flight (departure from Johannesburg with Rwandair Express), all accommodation and meals as indicated, all excursions with car and English speaking driver/guide, guides in the reserves, one gorilla permit and entrance fees to the Museum and Nyungwe Forest (Chimpanzee permit), mineral water while trekking in the forest, porterage and airport-hotel return transfers.

Prices exclude

Extra permits, meals not indicated drinks, tips and personal expenses, travel insurance, airport taxes and visa fees.

Below is an approximate price per person sharing (October 2009)

±Euro2350 Johannesburg ±Euro1800 from Kigali

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