Unusual Destinations Blog

This is a report from one of our venue scouts checking out a potential Unusual Destinations holiday venue in Northern Mozambique – we have reproduced it unedited as a “behind the scenes” look at the kind of reconnaissance we do before a destination makes it into our catalog.

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I flew from Cape Town to Johannesburg the day before & stayed with a friend, who kindly took me to the airport to meet my group at check-in at 8.30am. Vanessa Roux our Rani Resorts representative was eagerly awaiting our arrival where she assisted us with our luggage & seat bookings. Airlink’s check-in is now in the domestic terminal B (89 – 101) . Don’t forget that even though this is a regional flight, international “liquid rules” still apply. Containers of liquid less than 100ml can accompany you in your hand luggage, otherwise toiletries need to be locked in your soft luggage/togbag max weight 15kg !

We flew out on time at 10.30am to Pemba (SA8206) on a very comfortable aircraft with lovely leather seats. The staff & captain were great and that made for an enjoyable 3hr flight. On arrival at Pemba’s very small & basic little airport, we stood in a queue to go through immigrations. The arrival charge is USD 3 or R17 equiv – Give them R20 and don’t expect change! (Both currencies accepted)

We were met by the local Rani rep, who ushered us into a lovely air conditioned room & were offered some much needed ice cold water. Once everyone, who were connecting onto the islands were through, the Rep introduced himself  & did a manual check in for the local flights by reading our names & destinations off a list – easiest check-in I’ve ever done!! We then hopped onto a bus & were escorted to our CFA charter flight. I was very anxious to say the least, as I have never done a hop on a 12 seater Cessna Caravan before. Matthew, our pilot was fantastic and very cool after I insisted on checking exactly WHERE the life jackets were situated !  10min into the flight, I managed to prise my eyes & hands open and quietly peer out the window! What an amazing sight…we spotted the Pemba Beach Hotel from the air as well as all the other islands we were to visit later on in the week. It was spectacular !

After 25min we started our descent to land on Medjumbe –  A private island in the middle of the ocean. All you see from the air is the pristine white of the sand and their famous lighthouse peeping out from the trees & bush. We transferred to the lodge, 3min away by “golf cart” & were warmly greeted by the staff and the GM, Jani Claassen with delicious cocktails. He immediately advised us to adjust our watches to Medjumbe time – 1 hour forward! We were shown our private beach chalets & advised to meet in the bar for pre-dinner drinks & snacks at 6pm. The 13 beautifully decorated chalets each have their own plunge pool on their verandahs together with table & chairs as well as a hammock.

All chalets have air conditioning, mini bar, outside showers and large en-suite bathrooms. The bath has a massive window overlooking your private beach & whilst you are soaking up the complimentary bubbles & oils & feeling your muscles relax, you can lie & watch the sun set and forget all the stresses of city life. Drinks were served in their loft lounge. Stunning views of the beach with the warm breeze giving you that true island feeling. There are no mosquitoes found on this island as there is no natural, fresh water. It is all desalinated. Over a scrumptious dinner of seafood soup, seared tuna Carpaccio as starters and crayfish, coconut fish curry or beef fillet as main course, Janni told us a little more about this piece of paradise. Just across from Medjumbe is a tiny exclusive island called Quisanga. They will arrange exclusive picnics for couples & this for a romantic experience has got to be 

the ultimate for newly weds. There are possible plans for the future to build a few 7 star chalets here – so watch this space. Steve is the Activities Manager. A wonderful outdoor chap who will take you fishing, diving, snorkeling, windsurfing or skiing. He has a fun, outgoing personality, so a day’s activities with him will sure to be a highlight. 50 staff live on the island & all the locals are proud to be part of Medjumbe. That night I slept like a baby in my 4 poster bed.

The following morning I was up early & very surprised to see how far out the tide goes. I would suggest swimming along the main beach, as this part doesn’t have any rocks & coral for you to stub or cut your feet on if you don’t have booties to protect them. I walked out for miles to the sand spit – which is covered at high tide – and wallowed in the warm water until I had worked up an appetite & took a brisk walk back to meet the group. Due to the accessibility of foodstuffs, the resident Chef makes everything from scratch and that includes the most divine croissants & pastries! Breakfast is buffet style & hot food to order with your waiter. 

At 10.30am we got the call from Janni to advise that the aircraft was spotted coming in. After paying our USD 10 Marine Reserve fee, he loaded us into the cart to get us to the airstrip. One has to understand that there is no specific schedule or timings of the inter-island transfers. It all depends on who’s going where ! The staff are very efficient about advising everyone when they need to be ready & when they are leaving. So warn clients that no times are given on their itineraries!

After a quick thanks & goodbye & sadness of course, to leave this hypnotic tranquility, we waved good bye to Janni & the staff & headed off with Matthew at the controls to Matemo Island. This is only a 15min hop and on arrival were met by Chelsy & Roelof. Unfortunately the GM, Toni Vernon-Driscoll was on vacation & Chelsy was standing in for him as Assistant GM for 3 weeks. Roelof is the Activities Manager and both were friendly & charming. Again we were welcomed with cocktails in the lounge area, which was open & airy with high ceilings, couches & day beds, covered in bright local fabrics.

We were shown to our private chalets. There are 24 in total & they are all spread out along the unspoilt beach. All have private outdoor showers, en-suite bathrooms with robes & slippers & deck hammocks offering uninterrupted views of the passing dhows. We were all very excited to be spending 2 nights here – enough time to relax, unwind and feel the vibe of the island. You can choose to be as active as you wish and do all the water sports on offer or alternatively lie on your beach loungers or by the beautiful pool, tanning, reading or dozing. Roelof took as all snorkeling.

Unfortunately the visibily wasn’t too great but was fun none the same & one of the girls in the group did a dive with him. She was so excited as she saw 3 different species of turtle as well as tropical fish and colourful coral & anemones. We also managed to do a half day Ibo Island tour with Eliseu, who works on the island. He speaks different languages and is also the liason officer between the locals, staff & management. He has incredible knowledge about the history of the island which was nominated for a World Heritage status. From Matemo Island to Ibo Island takes 40min by boat.

For the last 500 years the island was a trading post and the history, slave trading, culture & ruins dates back to the early 1500’s. It’s very interesting walking around the old fort & watching the Silversmiths make their intricate, lacy silver jewellery. We did a sight inspection of Ibo Island Lodge. Three original historic buildings have been renovated to accommodate 14 ensuite rooms. They are large & lofty, elegant & simple & have been furnished by some original pieces. The original walls, some 1 metre thick still stand in the original house. The have an awesome roof terrace where they serve their dinners using freshly grown vegetables & herbs from their garden. I personally wouldn’t stay here, but would prefer to do a day tour across from Matemo but for clients wanting to “live” the ancient culture & experience this first hand, then it’s a must !

Meals at Matemo Island are served by the talented chef, Douglas & his variety of fresh seafood & traditional specialities were delectable & compliments must go to him for his imaginative menu’s.

After our 2 nights of gracious hospitality we flew to our last port of call Pemba Beach Hotel & Spa, a mere 30minutes by light aircraft.  This is a large hotel with 101 rooms & very obvious East African & Arabic influences in its style & architecture. The Assistant GM, Mossaine has been employed by the hotel since the start, first as front office and now as top management. What a fabulous, on the ball, humourous gentleman. He certainly knows his hotel & staff and runs it like a well oiled ship! He personally took us for a sight inspection & showed us all the room types from the standard deluxe rooms, classic rooms, suites, presidential suite to the 8 x self catering villas. A great option for a long stay guest as it is fully equipped with washing machine, dryer, fridge, stove as well as 2 rooms upstairs & 2 bathrooms, lounge & dining room. This hotel is very corporate & can accommodate groups & conferencing for up to 200 delegates. They have a gym with hi-tec equipment as well as a tennis court and a magnificent sanctuary spa spread over 500sq m where you can indulge in some tranquility and let one of the therapists pamper your needs with an array of treatments. Pemba Beach Hotel has 2 restuarants. The one which offers fine dining and Clube Naval, lighter more local options, with a vibey bar which is frequented by the locals & pilots ! We were taken on a city tour by Rui, a South African of Portugese descent who has been at the hotel for 6mnths and loving it. It was amazing to see the old buildings, the markets and the local friendly folk, smiling & waving to us as we passed or stopped for photographs. Rui took us straight to the airport  for our flight SA8205 for 12.45pm departure. Security checked all our bags before checking in and again we paid a USD3/R20 departure tax. 

It was with sadness that we all boarded our Jo’burg bound flight but we all left feeling elated that we had this unique experience in the Quirimbas Archipelago.

Thank you Rani Resorts & Airlink for affording us this opportunity of bringing home wonderful memories of heaven on earth and we will certainly encourage & inspire our clients to visit and see for themselves that this is an all inclusive Paradise !

1. Madagascar’s Nosy Be – Lazy days and lemurs

First impressions

Madagascar is completely impossible to box and label. There are so many cultural variations, diverse landscapes, bizarre creatures and customs, it’s a world apart. The warm-hearted friendliness of thepeople struck me immediately on arrival – and lasted for the entire trip. In a place of extreme poverty, they are living proof that money doesn’t equate to happiness. I was constantly amazed at their open hearts and minds and the rich soulfulness of the place, awash in earth colours and rough built French-style homes of mud. And the coast is deliciously tropical with the scent of vanilla on the wind.

Mad culture

In some areas on the mainland its taboo to hand an egg directly to another person, for girls to wash male underwear or to have funerals on certain days. Other tribes perform ancient bone-turning ceremonies, and one tribe creates erotic funery art to adorn their graves.

On Nosy Be there are sacred lakes where crocodiles live. I fed bananas to black lemurs on nearby Nosy Komba, because here they are revered and protected by locals. And the hand embroidered cutwork curtains I bought there still hang in my bedroom, because they make me smile and remember Nosy Be. I think Madagascar is a place that evokes immediate reaction – you intensely love it or hate it, but it’s impossible to be indifferent. Of all the places I have ever been, Madagascar has crept the deepest under my skin. Every time I visit, I’m already scheming and dreaming how I can return there.

Main attractions

Mount Passot at 300m is  the highest point on Nosy Be and is surrounded by eight deep-blue crater lakes, with names like Amparihimirahavavy and Antsahamanavaka. My trusty taxi driver Eddie Tsiadiso told me two of these lakes are sacred, and the spirits of the Sakalava and Antakara princes – local tribes in the area – live there. It is also fady or taboo for locals to fish in the sacred lakes, because crocodiles live there – though I never saw any myself. Tourists can’t walk the shores of the sacred lakes either, and they need to be dressed appropriately to visit the non-sacred ones: no smoking, hats, trousers, or any garment pulled over the feet can be worn. So I’m glad I wore a dress for the visit. Driving across Nosy Be reminded me of a primeval Eden, with bouganvilla, vanilla and ylang ylang flanking the road. From the main port Hell-ville, I caught a slow boat ride to Nosy Komba, or Lemur Island. An ancient chief proclaimed the black lemurs there sacred, so they are still protected and fed by locals. They’re so tame, I had them sitting on my shoulders in anticipation of being fed. Lokobe Reserve also protects the black lemur, along with boa constrictors and plenty of chameleons and birds.

Where to stay

There are lots of hotel options on Nosy Be, which means Big Island. Some are more romantic or family orientated than others, so it depends entirely on your needs. I chose Nosy Be Hotel and Amarina Beach to experience different aspects and areas of the island. Getting to Nosy Be, just north west of the mainland, is also easy. Air Madagascar flies there daily and there are even some direct flights from Europe – so it’s not as remote as it feels.

Dining out

All the hotels have restaurants that serve a combination menu of western and local dishes. This is the safe option. I tried a few local spots, but often what arrived in front of me was not what I anticipated. Probably because I couldn’t read the menu too accurately. Much is written in Malagasy, which is not quite French and further from English.

In a nutshell

Madagascar will stretch your mind and touch your soul, as it did mine. It’s a place of unspeakable beauty and quirkiness, so it’s important to go with an open mind and a sense of humour. It’s a place that changed me forever, and I love the people and places more each time I visit.

Personal highlight

Feeding the monkey-cat-like lemurs was wow, as was seeing the authentic way locals live. Madagascar is a lesson in living in the now.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Madagascar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/holiday.html

Nosy Be hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/beach-holidays-nosy-be.html

Nosy Be excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/madagascar/itineraries/article/1296/madagascar-n.html

2. Reunion – Natural Theatre

First Impressions

How could a tiny island speck in the middle of the Indian Ocean be so impossibly First World? Arriving in Reunion’s capital – St Denis – was like expecting pancakes and being served crème brule. I suspect the island may have drifted off course from the French Riviera; sparkling white, French flair buildings cling to the volcanic mountainside, and exotic tropical gardens weaving in between. Somehow I anticipated laid-back island-style and no cellphone signal, shabby chic perhaps, but definitely not spiffy French and smooth tar roads.

For me, Reunion’s quirkiest culture definitely lives in the villages and rugged interior. It’s a place of such stark contrasts and paradoxes, I have to keep pinching myself. The people are split into French and Creole, and here that translates into Catholic and Voodoo. Yes, Voodoo is alive and well in Reunion and the plentiful red roadside shrines are its beacons. Most are adorned with madonnas, candles and incense, although some madonnas acquired curses along the way and had their heads snapped off to show it. I keep my nose clean and focus on natural attractions instead. The Black Madonna who blesses children and the Madonna with Parasole who protects a town from lava flows are really interesting stories though, and not linked too closely to Voodoo.

Main Attractions

Air Austral flies direct to Reunion, so it’s easy to get there. I hired a car and drove the island, keeping to the right and sometimes getting confused in traffic circles. It’s generally easy driving, although next time I’ll choose an automatic. A gleaming asphalt road runs all the way round the island hugging the coastline. Because Reunion is so volcanic, this is the flattest area to build the road. And it took a while for me to realize that this is also the reason the graveyards all have sea views. Some infamous pirates like Le Buse still rest here peacefully. From the air I imagine Reunion looks like a giant chocolate muffin with three holes poked in it. These three volcanic ‘cirques’ are all totally different but equally bizarre. Cirque Mafate still lives in the Middle Ages and is only accessible on foot. Many of the inhabitants, I believe, have never seen cars, certainly never televisions or cellphones. It’s completely lost in time, and I found it refreshing to know there are still places like this in 2009. Cirque Cilaos is the one trekkers frequent. I needed a stiff vanilla rum after negotiating the 100 hairpin bends to get there. But the surrounding rocks look like witches hats and tangled plants hang from them, making the trip enchanting. Cirque Salazie was my personal favourite. Locals told me there are 100 waterfalls in the cirque, but you can’t see them all simultaneously. What I know personally is that one waterfall splashes directly onto the main road into Salazie, so you get a carwash en route. Definitely the most thrilling site must be Piton de la Fournaise in the south east, when you can get close; this moody volcano blew her top the day I arrived in Reunion, so the whole area was shrouded in smoke and ash, cordoned off until she calmed down.

The island is a haven for vulcanologists and there is even a Volcano Museum to put you properly in the picture.

Where to stay

The range and diversity of accommodation across the island ensures there’s something for everyone. I personally enjoy the middle of the road little beach villas, but staying in a period French B&B in a room surrounded by mirrors was quite quirky too. Some of the bottom of the pile places I found a little basic, but in some remote areas there’s not much choice. Because Reunion is ideal for a road trip, you seldom sleep in a place for more than a night anyway – unless you choose the relaxed beach holiday option.

Dining Out

Ah, Creole food has got to be the finest. Hot and flavoursome. The traditional curry, or cari to locals, is meat or chicken in a tomato sauce infused with garlic, ginger, chilli and thyme. It cleared my sinuses and gave me an endorphin rush for free. French food is plentiful too, I always choose the most traditional food if I can. Oh, and all meals should be washed down with local rum. It comes in so many flavours. In a Nutshell How I wish mainland Africa would take a feather from Reunion. It’s the place of the starkest contrasts and cultures, beliefs and landscapes, but it works like a smooth running machine because everyone minds their own business. If you are looking for the truly extreme and unusual, you’ll find it here. Reunion is for the whole family and the energetic and adventure seekers. Paragliding, surfing, abseiling, trekking, scuba diving – there’re all there.

Personal Highlight

Walking on a pitch black volcanic beach really was surreal for me. Black sand, black rocks and a turquoise Indian Ocean washing over it. That was my earthly Apocolyptic moment. And seeing the Miracle Church in Piton St Rose. The trusty priest stood at the church doors facing a fiery lava flow. When it reached the church steps, the lava split, went round the sides of the church and continued on to the sea. The entire town was incinerated but the church remained untouched, and the solid rock that still encircles the church is clear evidence of the event.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Reunion:

Reunion http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/holidays.html

Reunion self-drive packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/self-drive-packages.html

Reunion beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/beach-holidays.html

Reunion hiking http://www.unusualdestinations.com/reunion/hiking-holidays.html

3. Ethiopia, Lake Tana – the Blue Nile beginning

First impressions

A thread of antiquity runs through the whole of Ethiopia. Wherever you go there is a mix of organic life and very ancient ways of living and being. I never saw gloss or polish, or any hint of veneer – and that is so refreshing. What you see is what you get. The people are elegant and regal, a little stoic but always willing to tell you about their unusual land. I like that, nobody is in your face and there’s no pretence. I believe the whole country should really be a world heritage site for all the treasures it has, many of which remain unspoken and hidden from public eyes. The monastery islands in Lake Tana are just one example.

Ethi culture

Virtually the whole nation of 74 million practices Orthodox Christianity as their religion. To me as an outsider it seemed a puzzling mix of all the great world religions brewed together and garnished with Ethiopian flair. There are patron saints and Egyptian martyrs, Christian and Jewish figures and a hint of Buddism in the way the people live. What I found remarkable, is that religion is actually lived every day, churches are permanently open and frequented. Religion permeates every aspect of life – and everywhere you go. The other religion in Ethiopia is coffee. Its the birthplace of the brew and elaborate ceremonies are performed when its served. Burning incense and eating popcorn are part of proceedings. I sat quietly and waited to be served, not wanting to fiddle with decorum. If you like truly unusual places, this is it. Ethiopia follows a 12 hour clock, they have 70 languages, their own Amharic alphabet that looks like dancing figures, new year is in September, and their year is 13 months long. So right now it’s 2001 there.

Main attractions

Lalibela is well known for its dozens of rock hewn churches, carved from solid rock below ground level. I thought this was it when it comes to unusual churches, but when I arrived in Baha Dar there was lots more to discover. I took a boat trip across the milky turquoise waters of Lake Tana, because I simply wanted to ride across the source of the Blue Nile. Then, 45 minutes later, the skipper of Fanta pulled up on a tiny lake island and said I could ‘see the church if I want’. Right in the middle of this tiny island in the middle of this vast lake was a perfectly round church, elaborately adorned with traditional painting. In the very middle behind red velvet drapes was the holy of holies. ‘No you can’t look inside,’ I was told by the priest, after I removed my shoes. The priest dressed in bright yellow was awaiting his pilgrims. Cross in hand he waited to bless them, so I asked for a blessing too and was tapped lightly on the head. Other islands in Lake Tana house monasteries that only permit male or only female visitors, depending on the monastery’s inclination. And there are many more islands with quaint and quirky churches too. The locals all know where to find them.

Where to stay

Ethiopian Airlines flies between Johannesburg and Addis Ababa daily, and then to main towns in Ethiopia – Baha Dar included. Accommodation outside the capital is all quite basic and mostly clean. You’ll easily find a bed and a bathroom, though there isn’t always hot water – and sometimes there is no water at all. But the reception desk will tell you if there are ‘waterless hours’. I always  asked, just to be sure.

Dining out

Hotels serve almost exclusively what they consider Western food to be – everything is deep fried. I asked for a plain banana, and it was also proudly served ‘deep fried’. The waiter frowned in disbelief when I asked for a replacement – with the skin on. Local food takes an open mind to enjoy. Injira (a grey, tef based pancake that resembles a facecloth) is usually served with an assortment of ‘blow your head off’ hot sauces, sometimes also with chopped cabbage and chips. In smarter eateries, finely chopped meat in fiery sauce may also accompany the injira. Breakfast omelettes also come with a good dose of chilli, unless you request them plain. I learnt quickly that everything should be ordered ‘plain’, even though I love hot food. Ethiopian ‘hot’ is something quite special.

In a nutshell

The honesty and realness of the place grabbed me, and the way people live just as their ancestors did. Frequenting the same churches, riding in Egyptian style papyrus boats and against a backdrop of extreme hardship and poverty. Ethiopia taught me a lesson in family values and the importance of community, because that counts more than possessions and grandeur.

Personal highlight

I thoroughly appreciated the gentle pace of life and the proud grittiness of the people. It ticked me that tourist boats on Lake Tana have a dedicated skipper and a busy baler, who ensures the water stays mostly in the lake.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Ethiopia:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/holiday.html

Historical Packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/historical-and-cultural-holidays.html

Ethiopia hotels http://www.unusualdestinations.com/ethiopia/hotels.html

4. Mozambique’s Quirimbas Archipelago- Islands in the stream

First impressions

This is where watercolours and tales of Robinson Crusoe were born. From the plane window, swirls of turquoise lay below me with tiny verdant islands sprinkled into the middle distance. The Quirimbas look like emeralds embedded on aquamarine in an opulent necklace. When I landed on Medjumbe, the ‘welcome to paradise’ from staff wasn’t tongue in cheek either – I was actually thinking ‘paradise found’. This island, off the coast of Mozambique near the border with Tanzania, is the quintessential tropical paradise, and there are quite a few more in the archipelago: Matemo and Ibo for starters. But wherever you go in the Quirimbas, time stands still so watches and even calendars are redundant. Days are governed by the tides, when you can fish and dive and swim. I could certainly live like this.

Moz culture

The people of Mozambique are an evocative mix with roots in Portugal and Africa, the best of both. It’s mirrored in the spectacular seafood and caipirinha cocktails, and chill and cashews are always close at hand. For me, this is the ultimate menu. And being able to dip in the ocean whenever you please made me feel really alive. I felt invigorated and energized and omnipotent with natural rhythm ruling the days.

Main attractions

The old lighthouse on Medjumbe adds atmosphere to the splendour that surrounds you, and having the whole island as your private playground made me feel like child again – footloose and free. Matemo’s working village near the lodge gave me powerful insights into local life in Mozambique, and I brought home a piece of traditional Maluane indigo cloth to remember that feeling of absolute freedom. My trip to Ibo transported me to a distant age of Portuguese colonialism and I could easily imagine the opulent life once lived there. Almost every male and landmark here is named João, for the island’s patron saint, and I bought a piece of filigree jewelry to remember the ancient ways of Ibo. Traditional silversmiths in the old fort melt down old coins and fashion intricate lacy pieces from the metal, all by hand. I think patience lives here too. All these islands also offer boating and fishing trips and scuba diving on pristine coral reefs amidst rainbows of fish. There’s windsurfing and kayaking and anything else you can imagine doing in or on the sea. You’ll be spoilt for choice if you love sun, sand and sea.

Where to stay

Ibo Island Lodge is on the ocean’s edge and is a converted manor house with swinging couches on the verandah and four poster beds in the rooms. I loved the place’s simplicity and unexpected splashes of opulence. They also serve excellent crab dinners. On Matemo there is only one lodge also overlooking the sea – and it welcomes the whole family. Individual palm thatched suites are tucked between beach palm trees, and inside is decadent East African décor. Matemo has a touch of Arabia, reflecting the owner’s roots. Medjumbe is a private island catering for couples, so there’s just the one intimate lodge with panoramic views of the Indian Ocean. I spent hours in my private pool with just sea sand between me and the ocean. In the evenings I lazed in my hammock and watched the light change to dark and stars. It was like being suspended in time and space. The Quirimbas are quite remote, but getting there is easy on LAM and Airlink. There are regular flights from Johannesburg to Pemba and then CFA charter flights onto the islands.

Dining out

On the Quirimbas you dine in. Each lodge has its own restaurant serving a range of seafood and other fresh fare. I always choose seafood, so by the time I left crayfish, crab, prawns, calamari and all the local fish had been tasted and ticked. It is truly divine dining.

In a nutshell

If you want to forget the world exists, that trouble and chaos are possible and traffic jams ruin your days, the Quirimbas will make this all a distant memory. I imagine these postcard perfect islands gently wash out mind and soul for all who visit them. They did for me, and I left inspired and ready to take on the world.

Personal highlight

Wafting along in a traditional dhow with local fishermen, the white sail flapping overhead and the rough carved boat cutting through the warm water, that was my moment of heaven on earth. I could breathe, breathe, breathe and I could feel fresh energy filtering through me.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Mozambique:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/holidays.html

Quirimbas: Ibo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Matemo Island http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-12.html

Medjumbe http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique.html

Vamizi  http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/itineraries/article/1372/mozambique-2.html

Mozambique all beach packages http://www.unusualdestinations.com/mozambique/beach-holidays.html

5. Zanzibar – Dusted with Spice

First impressions

I fastened my seatbelt to land in Zanzibar, prepared to be disappointed. From the air, rusty red tin roofs wedged between palm trees welcomed me, and I could only imagine that a shanty town lay beneath. But not. Zanzibar, just off the coast of Tanzania in East Africa, is intoxicating. Heady, hot and humid, here it translates to sultry and balmy. Sprinkled with the spices of India and the vibrancy of Arabia.

Zanzi culture

The alleyways of Stonetown, I imagine, are just the same as they were a century ago. They’ve worn smooth from a million feet and tiny hole in the wall shops sell all the things tourists and locals lust for. Spices and exotic oils, the intricate geometric wood carvings Zanzibar is known for, and colourful patterned fabrics or khangas – always in two pieces: one for the waist and the other to cover the head in the Muslim way. I had no idea the sweet faced Swahili people had adopted the ways of Allah so closely. Zanzibar used to have the ring of Timbuktu, way off the beaten track. But today it’s well visited by travellers like me, who enjoy places that assault your senses with smells and tastes and sights that echo a melting pot of origins. I think that every nation who ever built a boat has in some way left a footprint on this heady little island. You can taste it in the food and see it in the architecture.

Main attractions

Nowadays Zanzibar is easy to get to, with a few direct flight options from South Africa – including 1Time. And it’s nice and compact, so you can drive across the island in an hour, and from top to bottom in just a little longer. But the roads are not smooth highways. I wedged into a taxi – between a smooth facedSwahil woman in all black and a spacey Rastafarian – to go swimming with dolphins on the east coast. There are plenty of snorkeling and diving places too. On the way back, red colobus monkeys peeped from their treetops as the minibus

crossed the Jozani Forest. On Prison Island I fed wild spinach to giant hundred year old Aldabra tortoises and lay on the deserted beach in the sun. Best of all was sailing on a traditional wooden dhow with sackcloth sails to get there. The skipper’s name was Captain Morgan.

Where to stay

Right on the beachfront of Stonetown, is the best place to stay because it’s perfectly central and so easy to wander the labyrinth of alleyways of the surrounding old quarter. Getting lost and found in the tangle of winding streets is the real charm of the place but I soon learnt my way around. Feeling safe encourages leisurely wandering, and a willing soul will always guide you back if you need it.

Dining out

In the evenings, the Foradhani market comes alive and I walked through a mesh of  mopeds and bicycles to buy fresh fish and octopus kebabs for supper – cooked over open coals with the Indian Ocean

as backdrop. All the locals dine there at night, walking, eating and chatting as they go. For desert I chewed sugar cane with the locals. I can still taste it in my mind.

In a nutshell

I imagine Zanzibar must be the African Jamaica – relaxed and laid back with reggae wafting on the wind. Virtually everyone you pass greets you with “Jambo, habari?” or “Hello, how are you?” No answer is required, just a smile. This is without doubt the friendliest place I’ve ever been; the warm heart of Africa. How I hope it never changes.

Personal highlight

Ambling the tangle of alleyways in Stonetown and chatting to the locals reminded me what it means to live authentically and in natural rhythm. I realized also that you can’t truly get lost here, because all roads eventually lead home.

Explore the Unusual Destinations Packages for Zanzibar:

http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/holiday.html

Zanzibar beach http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/beach-holidays.html

Zanzibar Stone Town http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/stone-town-hotels.html

Excursions http://www.unusualdestinations.com/zanzibar-islands/day-excursions.html