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IT09-D-Antananarivo to Tulear by road with extension to Ifaty Beach and Morondava (Kirindy)

This is Madagascar's most scenic and culturally interesting overland route. Travelling the RN7, this tarred contour road takes one from the capital city, Antananarivo, in the central highlands, to the south-west coast where reefs and beaches make for an ideal finish to this itinerary. En route, you'll experience some breathtaking scenery, pass through some typical Malagasy towns and villages, visit the tropical rain forests of Ranomafana National Park and the high plateau granite outcrops and sandstone canyons of the Isalo National Park and visit the bizarre Spiny Desert.

At the end of this overland itinerary you will travel to Morondava to visit the famous avenue of Baobabs, a grove of impressive Adansonia grandidieri. Thereafter you will continue to Kirindy Forest where you may see Fork-marked Lemur, Greater and Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemurs, the agile Red-tailed Sportive Lemur, the diminutive Grey Mouse Lemur and the Torotoroka Scops Owl.


Itinerary: 14 nights

DAY 1: Antananarivo
Fly to Antananarivo (Tana), the lively Malagasy capital in the central highlands. At the airport our English-speaking Malagasy agents will meet and assist you with formalities. Transfer to Relais des Plateaux or Palissandre Hotel & Spa for one night on a bed and breakfast basis.

DAY 2: Antananarivo - Antsirabe
Transfer by private car with your driver-guide to the highland town of Antsirabe. The 170km drive takes a leisurely two hours. En route at Ambatolampy, a quaint little town, have coffee at the Au Rendezvous Des Pecheurs an attractive restaurant with a delightful outside area. Antsirabe is undoubtedly one of our favourite towns. A buzzing town with pousse-pousse (rickshaw) drivers touting for business and making sure you remember their rickshaw number! 'Be a sport and take a ride'. Antsirabe is also the home of a very reputable university. Overnight at Residence Camelia or Hotel Des Thermes(Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 3: Antsirabe and the lakes
Today is spent visiting the lakes of Tritriva and Andraikiba. Along the way you will drive past the Star Brewery -the villages are more prosperous here as they have benefitted from the brewery by growing barley. On the outskirts of Antsirabe you will also see some tombs set-off the road. The road passes by Lake Andraikiba where you can go horse riding (skinny looking horses) or better still have lunch at the nearby lake restaurant set on a hillside with magnificent views. It is another thirty minutes from here to Lake Tritriva - an hour's walk will take you around the emerald green lake (remember to wear decent walking shoes). Inevitably you will be joined by a bevy of young kids all offering to be your personal guide. Lake Tritriva is a crater lake some 80 metres deep. The water level rises in the dry season and debris thrown into the lake has been known to reappear further down the valley, supporting the theory of underground water channels. In the afternoon you'll return to Antsirabe to visit the various craft works including the precious and semi-precious stone stores. Overnight at Residence Camelia or Hotel Des Thermes(Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 4: Antsirabe - Ranomafana National Park
Transfer by road to the Ranomafana National Park, a journey of about 5 hours. You'll stop at Ambositra which is famous for its wood carvings and where you will find an abundant choice of carved figurines and marquetry. Ranomafana featuring superb scenery is dominated by the white-water River Namorona, which cascades through rainforest-clad slopes. There is a good system of trails, including several half-day walks. Ranomafana is famed for its twelve species of lemur including the three species of Bamboo Lemur. For avid birders this is the place where you might find Brown Emutail, Madagascar Pygmy Kingfisher, Pitta-like and Rufous-headed ground-rollers, Brown Mesite, Yellow-browed Oxylabes, Crossley's Babbler, Forest Rock-thrush and Pollen's Vanga. The draw card of this park is the evening opportunity at the Belle Vue feeding station where you will see Fanoloka (Striped Civet), Ring-tailed Mongoose and Brown Mouse Lemur. Returning to the car park you may see chameleons and tree frogs. You'll need a torch (flash light) for this excursion and a raincoat or umbrella is always advisable. Overnight stay at the Setam Lodge (upmarket) or the Hotel Domaine Nature (basic) (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 5: Ranomafana National Park
Ranomafana is tropical rainforest. Paths in the forest are well laid out but the steepness of some trails is a challenge to some visitors. This forest is best in the mornings from first light until about 11am. Overnight stay at the Setam Lodge (upmarket) or the Hotel Domaine Nature (basic) (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 6: Ranomafana - Fianarantsoa
You'll have the morning to explore the rainforest again. Birders can use this day to head for the marsh known as Vohiparara, (or the upper forest) which is quite flat and holds specials like Madagascar Snipe, White-throated Rail, Madagascar Flufftail and Grey Emutail. After lunch you will transfer to the town of Fianarantsoa. This charming and vibrant highland town has much to offer in terms of picturesque scenery and boasts a world class university. Fianarantsoa means the place of good learning which is very apt. There is quite a contrast between the attractive upper town (old town) and the busy lower town. Fianarantsoa is surrounded by tea plantations and wine estates. Overnight stay at Tsara Guesthouse (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 7: Fianarantsoa - Anja Reserve - Ranohira (Isalo National Park)
Today you travel by road south-westwards towards the town of Ihosy, the outback capital of the Bara tribe. The road is good and you will pass through dramatic scenery including terraced rice paddies of the Betsileo people. This area is also the wine producing district of Tana and you will ass through these vineyards - those of Clos Malaza and Betsileo are the better ones. Those interested in local crafts can buy wonderful silk 'lambas' at Ambalavao, and visit the paper 'factory here, too. There is a noticeable change in architecture from characteristic multi-storeyed buildings on the highlands to simpler constructions of the Bara people. Fifteen kilometres out of Ambalavao is the community tourism site of Anja. Set amongst huge granitic boulders you will be led by a local guide to see their Ring-tailed Lemurs, all in very good condition. This is a pleasant break from the journey and sometimes you will be shown one of the smallest chameleons of the Brookesia genus. Madagascar Agamas are everywhere. Your guide will also take you to a tomb of the Bara people -they bury their deceased in caves. Past Ihosy you continue onto the Horombe Plateau (good for Reunion Harrier) before passing through the sapphire frontier town of Ranohira, and also the gateway town to the Isalo National Park. The park covers 81 540 ha of the Isalo Massif, which rises up from the flat surrounding grassy plain. The sandstone has been eroded into strange shapes, cut into impressive gorges and canyons. You overnight at Le Relais de la Reine or Le Jardin du Roy (upmarket) or Isalo Ranch Hotel (midrange) on dinner, bed and breakfast basis.

DAY 8: Isalo National Park
Isalo National Park is a premier hiking destination. A visit to the natural swimming pool (La Piscine Naturelle) will involve a thirty-minute drive into the park from where one must walk for about one-hour. It is very hot in summer and there is very little shade. The path climbs steeply onto a plateau and then descends sharply to the pool. It is a true oasis with fringed palms, cool welcoming water and a cascading waterfall. There are no lemurs here but you will discover many extraordinary plants and see amazing rock formations. Remember to drink plenty of water (you'll have to buy water & picnic prior to leaving for the excursion at the hotel). If you are more interested in lemurs then the best accessible area is the Canyon des Singes (or Maki) which is an eighteen km 4x4 drive on rough road into the reserve followed by a forty five minute hike into the canyon (not too strenuous and much of it is forested). There are Ring-tailed Lemur and Verreaux's Sifaka in dense vegetation here along the streams. Follow the river up the canyon to picnic and stop for a swim. This is a perfect one day excursion. The Isalo Interpretation Centre is worth a visit if you are interested in learning about the people who live around the park and the wildlife in the national park itself. It is just south of the entrance to the hotel Le Relais de la Reine, and close to the national road. You overnight at Le Relais de la Reine or Le Jardin du Roy (upmarket) or Isalo Ranch Hotel (midrange) on dinner, bed and breakfast basis.

DAY 9: Isalo National Park - Zombitse - Ifaty Beach
Today you continue your travels. It is worthwhile visiting the Zombitse Forest National Park. This is an interesting dry deciduous forest with well laid trails. It is easy walking. It is very important to get here early as it gets hot here early-on. If you are birders you need to leave before breakfast (organise a packed breakfast the night before). It is about a 90 minute drive. Specials include the Appert's Tetraka, found only in this 21 000 ha forest. Continuing south you pass by some impressive baobabs (Adansonia za and A. digitata) and continue through the wild-west-like sapphire mining towns of Ilakaka and Sakaraha. From here it is about 3 hours drive to Tulear. You pass by the elaborately decorated tombs of the Mahafaly and Antandroy - the tombs depicting colourful scenes from the lives of those interred there. The vegetation changes dramatically. Your final destination today is Ifaty Beach, which lies to the north of Tulear. This section of road is usually in very poor condition. You pass through degraded spiny forests, a botanical feature of this area. Overnight at the Paradisier Hotel or Les Dunes Hotel (upmarket) or La Mira Hotel (midrange) (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 10: Ifaty Beach - Reniala Private Reserve
It is important to set off very early in the morning as by 10am it will be really warm. Head for Mangily village - about 20 minutes north - and the Reniala Private Reserve. Reniala protects a piece of spiny forest with trails and labelled plants. It is a botanists' delight, relatively easy terrain, quite sandy but suitable for everybody. The forty five hectares of spiny forest includes two species of baobab (Adansonia rubrostipa & A. za). The flora is a chaotic ensemble of drought resistant plants, many of which are bloated, Pachypodiums, Moringas, Hildergardia and Delonix spp. There are many orchids as well as species of Aloe, Commiphora, intermixed with the spiny octopus trees (Didieracea). It is also good for the special birds of the area - Long-tailed Ground-roller, Lafresnaye's Vanga, Sub-desert Mesite, Running Coua and Archbold's Newtonia. Overnight at the Paradisier Hotel or Les Dunes Hotel (upmarket) or La Mira Hotel (midrange) (Dinner, bed and breakfast).

DAY 11: Ifaty Beach - Morondava - Kirindy

Today's travels depend on Air Madagascar's flight schedule. Essentially you will transfer from Ifaty Beach to Tulear airport for your flight to Morondava (about 1 hour). From Morondava you will transfer to Kirindy Forest. Along the way you will pass through the famous avenue of Baobabs, a grove of impressive Adansonia grandidieri. Thereafter you will continue to Kirindy Forest where you overnight (camping or wooden chalets) (FB).

Here the habitat is deciduous forest (10 000ha) which grows on the sandy soils of the flat western coastal plain at altitudes between 5m and 100m. In addition to the trees found in other deciduous forests, there are three species of baobab, Adansonia fony, A. za and A. grandidieri. After arrival you should do an evening /night walk as the nocturnal lemurs are easy to see here. They include Fork-marked Lemur, Greater and Fat-tailed Dwarf Lemurs, the agile Red-tailed Sportive Lemur and the diminutive Grey Mouse Lemur. Here you may also see Torotoroka Scops Owl.

DAY 12: Kirindy - Morondava
This morning you should do an early morning walk before breakfast with your guide. You should hope to find Verreaux's Sifaka and Red-fronted Brown Lemur. On the bird front, White-breasted Mesite, Giant & Coquerel's Coua, Greater Vasa Parrot, Mad Pygmy-kingfisher to name but a few.
Drive back to Morondava. Toward Morondava you may visit the baobabs again. Check-in at the hotel Baobab Cafe or Chez Maggie(dinner, bed and breakfast).

Day 13: Morondava
At leisure at Baobab Cafe or Chez Maggie (dinner, bed and breakfast)

DAY 14: Morondava - Antananarivo
Transfer to the airport and check in for your flight to Antananarivo. On arrival you will be will be met and transferred to Relais des Plateaux or Palissandre Hotel & Spa(B&B).

DAY 15: Outbound flight
Transfer to the airport in time to check in for your flight to Johannesburg.

Prices include

International (departure from Johannesburg) and internal Malagasy flights, all accommodation and meals as indicated, all excursions with car and driver, guides in the reserves, entry permits and all airport-hotel transfers.

Prices Do Not include

Meals not indicated, drinks, tips to guides, porters etc., any personal expenses, travel insurance, internet access, airport taxes and visa fees.


Below is an approximate price per person sharing (October 2008):

  • upmarket option: USD 6250; EUR 4000; ZAR48 000
  • mid range option: USD 6000; EUR 3800, ZAR46 000

If you would like to have your own personal guide travelling with you throughout the trip, please let us know. Currently the above itinerary includes the services of a driver-guide only.